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jim fl4

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Posts posted by jim fl4

  1. I'm not sure about the photos, but when 2nd flies up, does it require more force than first to push back down? It sounds like a false-neutral to me.

     

    If that's the case, check the adjustment of the gear selector lever; the gates on the selector don't actually do anything and the selector is a simple push/pull lever on the gearbox. The actual order of the gears is 1-2-4-N-5-3 in a line, but if the rod is not actually lining up properly during selection, it can select the wrong gear or get a false neutral where the pedal springs back with considerable force (much more noticeable on a Saracen) and a gear is not selected.

     

    Cheers,

    Terry

    Hi Terry, Thank you for your help. Interesting what you say about the gear selection but I do manage to select a gear when I move the gear lever forward to its stop....its 2nd gear because now its in the workkshop with the lid off I can actually visibly see it happen when I press the pedal down! However, it does certainly require more force to push back down, but then its a lot higher up than when its in any of the other gears, if that makes sense!

     

    The 2nd photo shows how the adjusting ring of 2nd gears automatic adjuster glances off of the head of the stop screw as the pedal come up...in other words, if it contacted the head of the stop screw more squarely I think the pedal would stop coming up earlier and thus I would have free play??

     

    Thanks again, your help is very much appreciated :-).

     

    Jim.

  2. Hi, Today I had the ferret running and tried moving it for the first time. The engines great, purrs, no smoke, plenty power, Flywheel also seems good. Gears all engage with no slip except for 2nd!!

     

    Went and studied things and decided to shift the radio etc and get the gearbox top cover off. The pics are what I found!!!

    Unlike any other pics I've seen on this forum :shocked: Basicallly, when the gear change pedal is activated the plate strikes the stop screw and then slides off it. ITs the only one to do it but some of the others are also a bit rear the top end of their stop screws. Since the pull rod is not level with the adjuster nut does this mean the bands are not worn out?

     

    The pedal also flies right up when engaging 2nd, (no free play). The other gears all have varying amounts of free play.

     

    Would any persons with the knowledge be kind enough to help diagnose what might be wrong and offer what might be done?

     

    The 2nd pic is the 2nd gear problem, last pic is neutral and first 4th engaged.

     

    Thanks again,

    Jim.

    PICT0467.jpg

    PICT0469.jpg

    PICT0470.jpg

  3. Jim your suggestion has worked for me. I have a B60 in a Pig that runs quite well, so much so that I have disconnected the choke cable. I follow the start proceed recommended for Pigs in NI. Provided the engine has run recently (& doesn't need priming manually), just a couple pumps on the accelerator then start up. If not pump a few times as you turn it over.

     

    So no more stuck cables or forgetting to push the choke in or pushing it in to find that it hasn't fully operated on the carb itself.

     

    Hi Clive, Interesting, because this engine also seems to start very well without any choke. Only problem is the revs are low and the engine only just manages to tickover until it warms up...maybe I should free up the hand throttle!!

     

    Thanks for your reply :-)

     

    Jim

  4. Hello, Yet another question :shocked:

     

    This time its about the cold start cable. It appears to be stuck, the lever on the carb is free. Before I attempt anything wondered if anyone has any experience with this that they might want to share :nut:. My idea had been to free the inner cable but expect to have to remove the whole cable first :cry:, then soak in diesel/paraffin, but what do you think?

     

    Thanks

     

    Jim

  5. When I got my Ferret all my hinges were frozen too....The front hatch I could barely move with a 6 ft long pry bar...What I did was everyday I soaked them in WD40 penetrating lubricant and tried to move them...After about 25 days or so doing this I switched to PB Blaster (much better) penetrating lubricant and was finally able to move them then sprayed again for days always moving them back and forth with the pry bar working the lubricant in...Go to your auto/truck parts store and talk with them about the latest and best penetrant to use...There are always new products coming out on the market and I try them..Good luck to you.

    Joe in USA

    Hi Joe, Thanks for your message. Sounds good stuff you used. As you know in the end I knocked the pins out. Todays update is that there are little pins which were located to stop the mains from ever coming loose. They are solid pins, not roll pins. For the moment I've just put some split pins in. That's one job done, next is the engine bay hinges :D.

  6. Hi,

     

    A big thank you to all those who replied. Some good ideas and thoughts :).

     

    Patience not being my strong point, a little while after posting the question I returned to the workshop and now I'm back in and can report we have two pins on the floor...cooling down! Not too bad a job, heated one hinge and knocked the pin towards the periscope until it cleared the 'welded to turret part', then the same with the other. Then lifted the lid clear and heated the hinges again and, whilst resting on an anvil knocked the hinges completely out. Yippee :-):-):-). While the lid is off, will free the equally seized latch and sliding bolt....great fun:shocked:.

     

    Does anyone know if the hinges for the engine covers are held in with roll pins? They too are seized, infact one has snapped off and I expect the others are not far behind!

     

    Thanks again

     

    Jim

  7. Hi All, Got seized hinges on my ferret, not just the top hatch but every hinge!!! Today I had a go at warming the hinge up on the top. After 15 mins with the torch the hinges freed up fairly well and I tried to ger oil in, hoping capillary action might help. Unfortunately as the hinges cooled they stiffened up and are now nearly as bad as before I started. I think the answer might be to heat the thing up again and try to knock the hinge pin out, (towards the periscope). What would the experts on here think?

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Jim

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