jim fl4

8 minutes ago, halftrackman said:

great looking machines

Hi, I'm looking for a ferret to restore.  Any condition/type, also spares wanted. Could also be interested in a Saladin or Saracen. If you think you have something private message me and I will get back to you. Thanks, Jim.

Welcome Wendell,  That's one fine collection you have their!  Some photos would, I'm sure go down well :).

Cheeers, Jim.

34 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

Hi Jim,

The normal Semi-Matt, which has a slight sheen on it but once cured it looks authentic.

Problem with a dead flat matt is that a spot of oil or grease marks it for life, with semi-matt it is more durable.

Richard

Thank you Richard for your reply.  Completely agree the matt is terrible for showing oily fingerprints and the like.  Cheers, Jim.

On ‎10‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 11:28 PM, Richard Farrant said:

Gavin,

Forget RAL codes, you should look at British Standard colours, they are still used by paint makes in the UK. For SCC No.2 Brown, see Kerry at RR Services, there is a Brown with my name on that was matched by a true sample by the paint manufacturer.

regards, Richard

Hi Richard,  Moreover is the SCC No. 2 Brown you refer to Matt or Satin (semi-gloss)?  Thanks. Jim.

Hi, I think its 5/16th or 7.94mm.

Jim

 Hijacking the thread here but I'm looking out for the same, specifically a sterling smg.  

Jim

Interesting comments. Certainly times were much slower, my dad talks of, when as a lad, of  being able to grab hold of the back of lorries to get a free tow up a hill on his bicycle, they were that slow.

Its the same with brakes, of course we cannot judge them against their modern counterparts.

Hi Folks,

Today I out was out in the shed early before it got too hot and after making a slight alteration to the setting of the linkage refitted the unit and success, works perfect and yes it is indeed surprising the effect the servo has on the braking effect.  The engine now has just  a momentary surge (almost  imperceivable) before resuming a steady tick over before a 'hiss' when the brake pedal is released.

I big thank you to all who contributed to educating me with their knowledge.

I'm all ready now for the trucks big outing to the YWE!

All best,  Jim.

3 hours ago, john1950 said:

Going from memory they were a Clayton Dewandre unit fitted to Bedfords.They look the same but they have different size hyd master cylinders. Check part numbers.  If you press the brakes with the engine ticking over you will a slight increase in revs then it will settle back down. There is a very noticable difference between brakes with and without servo assistance. If you do an internet search for Clayton Dewandre you should turn up a diagram and some information.

Thanks John,  Yes its a Dewandre,  On stripping the servo found the vacuum piston seized so I hope that's the reason for the low effect of the brakes.  Having felt the vacuum created it surprises me that such a relatively weak vacuum could multiple the brake effect so much but I assume it must.  

Thanks Guy and Richard,  Agree its a very fine adjustment.  I have the little book, but I find it hard to understand exactly where you measure etc.  Anyhow I have removed it to the bench again, and studied how it works.  I'm going to refit it tomorrow.

  Out of interest when I had the engine ticking over and with the top cover over the gearbox off I separated the steel vacuum pipe from the servo and instantly the engine surged...put my thumb over it and the engine purred again.  I could feel the vacuum from this pipe on my thumb.  It was not a killer vacuum, I would say it was no stronger at all than a hoover, does it sound right? because ive no idea what sort of vacuum is normal!

Oh the joys for of a servo assisted braking system!  I have rebuild the servo, refitted it and, yup, its not operating.  I think I must have got the valve setting up wrong, I have a good vacuum to it.  I hear the setting up of the valves is super critical and I was hoping someone here may be able to offer its tips??? I think the servo of QL's are the same. thanks, Jim.

Hi again.  Decided to just have a go and removed the m/c and stripped it down.  All looks remarkably good, all the seals look quiet good, the outside gaiter is life new.  I cannot see a problem.  The only things ive not removed are the check valves for the front and rear outlets, do I need to remove them anyone? Would you recommend I fit new seals?

Next stripped the servo down. Not too bad a job and found a big problem.  The big piston had stuck in the bore and their was a lot on gunge in behind where the big spring goes.  So, no wonder the servo was not operating.  Could this be the sole problem?  The manual says the brakes are just as effective without servo assistance, just more pressure has to be applied by ones foot!  Any thoughts guys much appreciated as always.  Heres a few pics in the order of work, ie. the last is of the cleaned bore.

18 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

Jim, 

could be the hose has de laminated in side and acting like a valve shutting off the flow.

Checked the hose, all clear no blockage, the problem is one of a poor/low brake effect to all 4 wheels with no difference whether the engine is running or not. No vacuum leak from the induction manifold to servo.  Just got this off, only have the army manual, a small A5 booklet with not much detail on striping the m/c or servo.  Does anyone have an advise on stripping etc these? thanks again, Jim.

Just now, jim fl4 said:

 

Hi Richard, thank you for your message.  I did remove the nipple completely which didn't make any difference.

57 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

Jim,

I note what you say about one bleed screw only dribbling. It is entirely possible it is blocked by dirt or rust. The only way to be sure is to remove it so you can check if the cross-drilling at inner end is clear. Not unusual to find this. Put a clamp on the hose so as not to lose fluid when removing the screw.

regards, Richard

2 hours ago, Tony B said:

Have you tried pressure /vacum bleeding the system to make sure there is no air trapped?

Hi Tony, thanks for your reply.  No I have not, but when checking all the cylinders to see if their pistons were free little or no fluid was lost.  I did open the bleed nipples after on those cylinders dismantled and bled the usual way.  What gets me is that when doing the bleeding on one of the fronts the pedal refused to go to the bottom or even any lower than the usual and the usual travel is minimal, ie a very good pedal you would say.  I will be out shortly to check if the linkage is all free at the master cylinder end and then remove the servo/master assembly. I will report my findings here, thanks again.

Hi All,  I'm having lots of fun with the Bedford OY brakes.  Basically I am only getting a very low braking effect.  On a test drive on grass its impossible to lock any wheel and the braking effect it the same down a hill REGARDLESS of whether the engine is running or not.  The servo makes the engine surge slightly but has zero effect on the brakes.

All the brakes at each wheel have been thoroughly gone over, bisectors, adjustors, wheel  slave cylinders all 100% good.  All the shoes are in nearly new condition, no contamination, all the drums are like new as well.  All the pipework is copper, the flexi hoses are in good order and clear of any blockage.  Strangely, when bleeding the fronts the fluid would barely dribble out of the bleed nipple even though I was standing on the pedal, (which did not go to the floor but stayed in the usual position)! successfully bled nevertheless.

So, that now only leaves the master cylinder and/or the servo, unless you think different?

I shall be removing the combined servo/master cylinder tomorrow, I've never done this before so any tips would be appreciated.  I will strip then down, again never done that before so any advise welcomed.

Only 2 weeks to the YWE which I've promised the organiser I will attend so getting a bit worried now :).

Thanks for reading, Jim.

Does anyone know what it got to in the auction please???

are these 10.50 x 16? if so how much are they and are they rated for road use? Radial or crossply?

Thanks

Hi All,  I am on the look out for an underbody locker for a Bedford OY.  I already have one locker which measures 21" wide x 14" high x 18" deep.  Another with the same dimensions would fit a treat.  Possible to fabricate but an original would be nicer!

Thanks for reading,

Jim

Hi All,  The points in the Bedford's dizzy have, at some time been changed for a magnetic type electronic module which I have found is faulty.  I am inclined to convert it back to stock after reading of various problems people have had with these electronic conversions, (it looks like it might be a Jolley module).

To that effect I wound be grateful if anyone can point me in the direction of a preferably complete dizzy.

Thanks

Jim

Your complaining... try finding any  10.50-16 tyres

Hi,  I know this is a long shot but wondered if anyone may know of any Vigilant wire guided missile gear, launch bins, inert rounds etc etc capable of being mounted onto a ferret 2/7.

Thanks, Jim.

49 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

Jim,

if it is the carb I described then it does not have a mechanical accelerator pump, it is done by vacuum. The reason that you should not use the throttle is because you will not get the full benefit of the Zero Starter (choke or cold starter).

interesting about the vacuum, I thought I'd read up about the carb too! so that's the reason for the small bore steel pipe attached and I don't mean  the fuel pipe?

thanks again Richard