Surveyor
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Posts posted by Surveyor
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Can any anyone help with these, saw them for sale in pairs at Witham, can find no information, do you need 4 or only a pair?
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google Lytham wartime weekend , 13/14 th august great FREE show
Thanks for the links, I don't have facebook
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Does any one know of events roughly from the Hadrian's wall North, or say about 50 miles South? travelling with kids makes it an expedition if further
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Dundee?
North bank of the silvery Tay, wonderful place, know for the Tay Bridge disaster, jute, jam, journalism. HMS Unicorn oldest wooden warship still afloat
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The 'traditional' pick-axe bracket fitting is designed such that it can be correctly mounted over the central spline of a TAIL-GATE (other than a Lightweight split tail-gate)
The L'wt type is surface mounted , same as when used correctly on a stn. wgn. side-hinged door.
Bracket "c" , when not bent is designed such that a shovel of incorrect lenght can not be fitted , because if you do this - then your rear quarter panel gets bent - as yours is , because you can't fully open the door. It is normal for a tail-gate (inc. L'wt. type) to have the pick helve + shovel extending well beyond the width of the tail-gate , BUT not a door.
To repeat - all this is correctly designed by Solihull , you select the correct parts for the application and only mount suitable tools.
Unfortunately the bracket I have is not the pattern the link shows, I have the one below,
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Also one of these: http://www.paddockspares.com/336351-axe-r-plate.html
Thanks, have that and a washer, what I have noticed is that the traditional fitting for the axe to the land rover has the fixing flanges folded under mine has them out side of the unit so it can be fixed from the outside, I have the original butterfly wing nut for the original fitting but not having counted the threads suspect the fitting is metric.
The picture you supplied shows a rounded nut to hold the axe.
Having looked again at my vehicle there is no position to hold the axe as the cab is glass fibre, more digging to do
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At a guess the shovel brackets have their positions reversed at some time. Measure the heights to verify the shovel will fit if they are swapped and if thats the case just drill out the rivets and re-rivet into the correct place.
What you call the "axe" is actually the head of the pick axe. If memory serves correctly the handle is secured across the hard top above the rear door as in this image:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]115930[/ATTACH]
No idea what bracket 3 is for - perhaps a 3rd strap for the shovel handle:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]115931[/ATTACH]
I suspected that they had been swapped but wasn't sure, many thanks re the handle, I was wondering where that went, there are no straps where yours is stowed.
Just need a butterfly nut with the same thread as the fitting for the axe
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I am working on the external fittings of my land rover
And have the standard back, first thing I have noticed is the fixing for the axe is different from the land rover part
However, when offering the shovel to the frame, curved side towards the vehicle the bracket number 1 projects further than bracket number 2 and therefore the shovel will not fit, Bracket 3 is to be sorted.
The vehicle was upgraded in Tithonus.
The shovel is a Pioneer made in the 1960's
As yet I have not been able to find an answer can any one help?
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I seem to recall, in the Falkland's war, Max Hastings wrote an article on a correspondent who made a mix of the 24 hour rat pack in one meal, I cant find my copy of the book where he mentioned it.
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The packs I remember for the 70's had the oatmeal blocks in a green foil bag, same as the biscuits AB and the tea mix was in white paper sachets inside a plastic bag with the salt, pepper, sugar etc.
I seem to recall these ones in the mid 80's, then went to boil in the bag, one recollection was could never get the boil in the bag hot
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Lots of bad things can happen here ! what if actually have a 'special' that was filled with something else to try and surprise the bomb disposal guy ? I don't know too much about it but there is a reason your mum told you not to play with unexploded bombs....
My Grandfather was a warden in Birmingham and he used to drop bin lids over them to smoother the flames, the Germans found out we were putting them out that way.
Family legend has it he walked down the path put a dustbin lid on one went to deal with another one and the explosive went off and the bin lid passed closely over his head.
So I agree be careful
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soda crystals & water
correct mixture is 4 % ..no more
so
4 / 100 l
use only 6v or 12v .....and
.....minus (-)on the piece that is to be cleaned !for example
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
pekka
Just back on the forum, busy trying to get some work in, reading this I would say the solution was not strong enough
The battery charger says fully automatic
So not sure if its the right type to use
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First Attempt, 100 litres of water and a large anode, 20 tablespoons of soda crystals. nothing. reduced anode still nothing, added another tablespoon full
Suspect that its the type of battery charger, although 8amp.
Thinking of looking at a reducer to 24V and try again.
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There is a C reg Stalwart that can be seen from the M6 Northbound at a paintball site near Coventry
Always moving too quick to take piccies but it looks in good order
That's a coincidence, I spotted the one above on the M6 as well
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Having Hunted on the site I couldn't find a topic on this subject, I was driving up the Motorway an noticed this one which I went following week went on the back road and found that it was at the entry to a paintball site.
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No, it isn't!! Cleaning soda are white chrystals, like salt. Caustic soda is something completely different chemically and very nasty stuff.
For electrolysis you'll need something like this -> http://groceries.asda.com/product/limescale-plug-unblocker/homecare-soda-crystals/19846 (just an example)
Many thanks, as you will gather I am learning as I go and ask when not sure
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I guess that's best if you do as the solution gets filled with rust particles, but if you can't the worst that can happen is that the process will take a bit longer.
The used solution itself is free of chemicals and even makes a good plant nutrient, but it might cause rust stains if spilled on a poreus surface.
You say cleaning soda in the article, I am assuming this is the same as caustic soda?
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thats the gel coat.. this is for boats but you get the idea
Many thanks looks a good site
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I am looking at the glass fibre roof to the defender, I have noticed an number of cracks from what look likes minor impact damage, any suggestions on either a repair of method of covering up
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Yes, vinegar works. I use an organic cider vinegar which I can get hold of quite cheaply locally. It works very well. Slightly better is some stuff called Evapo-Rust which is also biodegradable but more expensive.
It is surprising how effective these mild acids are - they're great for cleaning up nuts, bolts and washers, and anything which has relatively light surface rust. They brought my Land Rover tub supports up very well indeed - I soaked them for several days in a bath made of plastic guttering just a bit longer than they were (so as to use as little vinegar as possible) and, once given a going over with one of those aluminium scouring pads they were fine.
10 68
Thanks, one of the reasons I was asking ire malt vinegar is you can buy this in large containers, I have not found the same with white vinegar
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I wrote an how-to for electrolysis on another forum:
http://www.wwiireenacting.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=91846
Note: the process is harmless for the original metal but it will remove paint, so if you want to preserve that you'll need another method. :angel:
Thanks for this, looks quite simply as well, strangely enough I have a pioneer shovel needing to be stripped of paint as well as the spot of rust so I might try it first.
One question from the article, I assume I have to change the solution after each cleaning process?
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You could look into electrolysis too.
Thanks, never heard of it in removing rust only rust prevention
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I have some just on a small piece of kit, an easy remedy, according to home grown information, is to soak in white vinegar, I am assuming that the reason for not using malt is that it could stain
Recieved FOI Report
in British Vehicles
Posted
Having just received my report, I was showing it to a friend REME, who when looking at the attached page mentioned that the service history makes no mention of changing the CAM belt, Looking at the report there does appear to be a lack of information I assume this is normal, can any one help?