Surveyor
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Posts posted by Surveyor
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14 hours ago, john1950 said:
Just take the three dome nuts off the rocker cover, give it a bump with your hand or a soft mallet lift it off and you will be able to see a bent push rod, or if all the rockers are working as they should when you rotate the crankshaft, the problem is elswhere.
I think the problem is else where the cover was taken off and all push rods were okay apparently
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1 hour ago, ruxy said:
;'Clicking' - out of the possibilities , that to me sounds more like a actual bronze tappet breaking up (that it would do if the roller had smashed) , this event could have then smashed the actual cast iron tappet-guide bush with running on rather than switching off a.s.a.p. If your luck is in damage could be restricted to these 3 components and probably the cam lobe will be damaged - so a new cam too. A full tappet assembly good quality is very cheap , a genuine camshaft has always been very expensive , copies are quite cheap. Genuine cams are very good obviously , The only difference of note over a better copy is the lobe sharp edges are just to say linished off and then polished. To me this scenario is the most likely to allow 4 turns but not a full cycle. Light laden engine , in those 3 min. you would never notice the power drop off until it would run no longer in a instant.
Many thanks, will have a chat with my mechanic Jim, as i am learning is this a job for a garage or on a drive
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33 minutes ago, john1950 said:
Cam followers do give trouble breaking with varying degrees of damage to the block, also the hot spots in the head come out and do damage. Four turns before locking up is food for thought.
1 hour ago, ruxy said:Surveyor - puzzeled / intrigued by this engine failure. When the strip results are known - it will be interesting to look back in retrospect. Are you able to give a little more info. of situation , you were just cruising along on a good highway, - must have been some form of hesitation just prior , can you give further clues + time / distance involved ? Nonrmal noise from under-bonnet - then what ? I am aware a mental panic can take over and wash out from memory.
There was a clicking noise which last about 3 minutes drove a further 5 miles before the engine started to brake the vehicle, I'm also intrigued
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2 hours ago, john1950 said:
I know you want to keep it authentic, but a motor replacement may be the easiest quickest cheapest option. Then you can investigate the original engine at your leasure. Until you get the can of worms open you do not know what the repair is going to cost. Just a point there is a take out on ebay at the minute that is under £100.
The trouble is the Army only upgraded about 1200 of these, 110, Defender 90 and 110, the engine has two alternators, one for the engine and one fr the radio kit so loathed to replace the engine. So a bit loathed to replace the engine
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On 05/03/2018 at 4:01 PM, john1950 said:
All the bits are liftable and not really heavy, the sun will come out at some stage. If it was a conrod there would probably be a hole in the block. If it is a big end problem it more than likely would not turn, so if you are not in a hurry to repair it be curious.
There is no hole in the block, the camshaft does turn, I understand 4 turns then stops, also it is "compressing" if that's the right term, was hoping to get the thing working for Knockhill servicemen's day in April, that's gone by the board
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21 hours ago, john1950 said:
Is your engine a 11j or 12j? if it is a 12j then all the major parts are the same as civillion ones so readily available.
Thanks, the garage is used to Land Rover and a Britpart stockest
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4 hours ago, john1950 said:
All the bits are liftable and not really heavy, the sun will come out at some stage. If it was a conrod there would probably be a hole in the block. If it is a big end problem it more than likely would not turn, so if you are not in a hurry to repair it be curious.
John
The camshaft turns about 4, compression is heard and no signs of holes in the block, as its a Tithonous and of the 3 models which were modified to this standard only 1,200 I am keen to rebuild the engine in order to keep authenticity, yes have a few other bots to do but engine first
Richard
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2 hours ago, ruxy said:
https://www.rac.co.uk/breakdown-cover/broken-down
SORN , no problem , broken down - instant membership ,,
Sorry I'm with alcoholics anonymous and yes was thinking of them as they have done a tow on a different vehicle,
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30 minutes ago, john1950 said:
There has got to be a way around the problem without spending loads of money. How far have you got with disassembly? Is the head off or just the rocker cover.
I didn't do the work and wasn't available, to see, the thread on that is Camshaft woes.
My understand he has taken a cover off, yup I'm a mechanical idiot but learning, and says the push rods and rockers okay, therefore deeper inside the block.
The thought is a con rod but not definite, I am on an open drive with no cover or kit to lift bits out, gravel drive
Richard
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Just got a response from the Police it is required to be carried not towed, rats and a few other words comes into mind
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I think safest answer is to get a flat bed to transport it, was hoping to tow but doesn't look practical, last option will be to phone police
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Many thanks a bit more digging needed I think, thankfully its not urgent
Richard
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It looks as though I may have to arrange to transport my Land Rover to a Mechanic with a garage.
The vehicle has a valid MoT and insurance.
I have a question;
1. Can I tow it behind a vehicle when under SORN, the rear will have the number plate and lights of the towing vehicle
If this is mot possible I will have to arrange a flat bed
Thanks in advance
Richard
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On 24/02/2018 at 5:36 PM, MatchFuzee said:
The correct name for the "spreader" is PLATE,IMPACT Part No/Drawing no. A2/15041, see Chap 2-3 Pages 6 & 7:-
Searching for drawing no. A2/15041, I found this:-
Impact plate. Marking: Package marking only acceptable for this item. 7310-99-024-6938 UK/SC/5558 A2/15041 in Annex A to ECI/0204 -Drawing References.
Searching for NSN 7310-99-024-6938:-
https://www.iso-group.com/NSNIndex/52507
You can request a quote here:-
https://www.iso-group.com/NSN/7310-99-024-6938
No idea if the company deals with individuals or their minimum order.
Many thanks, I have one other source that's come to light but not sure if available
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On 24/02/2018 at 12:31 PM, MatchFuzee said:
Hello Richard,
This is not necessarily the only or best way but it does work. If you have any questions about it, I will do my best to answer them.
1. Open new word document and add the topic’s title.
2. Insert page number(if required).
3. Click on the + (MultiQuote) button before the Quote button on each post. This works on more than one page at a time but I haven’t tried it on a topic that runs to 10s of pages.
4. When you have clicked on the + button for all the posts in the topic (or as many as the system allows) click on the “Quote posts” button in the bottom right corner of the screen. All the quoted posts are now in “Reply to this topic...”.
5. Click on “Preview”.
6. Right click anywhere in the quoted posts and then select all.
7. Right click again and copy.
8. Paste into your new document.
9. Delete the "MultiQuote" posts in “Reply to this topic...”.
Editing the document.
10. Select all the text.
11. To remove the shading click on the “Shading” button and then “No Color” or White, Background 1”
12. The images will require re-sizing.
Will try when I have a spare minute, trouble being self employed needs to get money in to pay for the more interesting stuff
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Thanks they were first port of call unfortunately nothing, still looking
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19 hours ago, MatchFuzee said:
Is the format that you would like to print a forum article in? If yes I will write a "how to" guide for you.
Printing Forum Article
On 17/02/2018 at 11:33 AM, Surveyor said:
I seem to recall in the old Forum it was possible to print articles, I filled them for reference. I cant seem to find the same button as before, Can some one point me in the right place
On 17/02/2018 at 12:45 PM, rog8811 said:
Have you tried Right click on the mouse?
On 17/02/2018 at 1:25 PM, Surveyor said:
Yes when I pressed the print button before it took all the adverts out which was what I hoped today
Thanks
I have my article re Cam Shaft woes, I am trying to print this off fo the mechanic, I remember on the previous site this was done without the adverts i.e. les clutter, I cant seem to find that here
Richard
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Just spoke to a local 4x4 garage reckons about £1k to fix, need to save up for that
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54 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:
Hi Richard,
I think you are on a crash course of the workings of an engine and hopefully your mechanic will explain it to you in laymans terms! If the head was off ( you say he took the top off unless you mean the rocker cover) and the engine turned over, albeit 4 revolutions, and all the pistons went up and down, then it seems odd that it is locking up (which I assume is what you are saying). As has been said, your guy will gradually narrow down the problem.
Richard
Thanks always believe learn as you go, as I was 100 miles away and my son was shown but not sure when I called jim need to get idea not sure, would have preferred to been there to clarify, remember reading a book re submarines in second world war the CO had the engineer explain till the CO understood how the bits worked, same here.
Richard
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15 minutes ago, john1950 said:
Once you have started keep going, you cannot hurt it. Take things off in order and keep like for like together. Plastic boxes are invaluable. Have you got a manual or Googled disasembly. Do not spend money unless you realy have to, You have support.
Yes have parts manual both civie and MoD, and boxes, unfortunately I'm not covered, looking for tent to Acquire tomorrow
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52 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:
Richard,
You mention rotating the 'camshaft'. Unless the timing cover is exposed, this is not possible, Do you mean the crankshaft, ie, turning the engine over? It is quite a simple engine really. I have rebuilt 100's of the petrol versions, but not personally been involved with the diesels. When in the early years of service there were serious reliability problems with the diesel engine, but that was about 24 years ago now and was sorted out.
Richard
Richard
my standard but learning, is open bonnet yup an engine, i have just learnt to change oil and deisel, so if i explain thing as an idiot please understand I'm learning, i do feel in aw of people who get what looks unsalvagable then next looks brand new.
On the front of the engine is a 41 mm "nut" Jim says he can crank that for 4 turns then stops, he says it is compressiing, he has taken the. Top of the engine off and checked pistons and i think push rods and can't see a problem there, hence assumption of con rod, I'm on a drive and no cover.
Jim is a professional mechanic and i trust him
Richard
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Richard
I am a mechanical dunce you are probably right, just the sinking feeling in stomach when thinking that we need a garage to help and more than likely misheard on the telephone
Richard
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Jim my mechanic has checked the and reckons the piston rods are okay, thinks the con rods may have gone
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48 minutes ago, fv1609 said:
Yes please that would be interesting as I'm intrigued by the AESP octad, perhaps they share a common burner?
You did well to get the manuals as I saw your FOI drew a blank.
I'll PM my email
Clive
My FOI was successful, strangely I got one saying no then another saying here it is.
I have now 3 MK 12, 2 MK 2 and a MK3, only 1 MK 12 has been used.
Also have 4 sets of pans.
Most parts there but need to do an inventory on the likes of funnels and spanners, waiting for better weather.
PM replied to
Towing when under SORN
in Legislation, Licenses & Registration
Posted
Many thanks for this will as Jim when I see him