Chris Hall

The badge looks more like the old look Royal Sussex Reg badge.

Do you shoot the FNP your self and then reload empty or but that way?

im wondering how this ex-Portuguese/Serbian ammo shoots as ive heard good things about it.

I would rip both of any potential sellers arms off for a decently priced 7.92mm, I’ve been looking for about 15 years but they’ve always been a ridiculous price.

Try ringing or emailing. They have lots of stuff they don’t list. They have a 7.92mm Bren which isn’t listed and I’ve been waiting for it to come up and for the price to drop as it’s massively over priced at the shows.

I’ve got the 3 versions of the WD/C and CO tool boxes but there’s even variations  within those.

the WD/D tool box is similar to the early WD/C (and other pre war RE tool boxes) but the positions of the brackets are different. There’s also additional holes in the back of the WD/D tool box for the regulator to bolt to. I think when I talked to Ron about this We realised this was soon changed, probably due to water and crap being thrown Into the internals.

The last version of the CO tool box was reintroduced for the post war bikes but this version requires a little tab on the frame bracket (a bit like a 2 hole mechano piece). Whereas my early (Last version) WD/CO toolbox has the L brackets on the toolbox in such a position that the frame doesn’t require the mechano piece.

You do need to be careful. They say the over 70s are most vulnerable. My March 42 GPW has underlying health issues so she probably won’t be coming out this year.

One of the best bits of advice I received was to spray a little light coat on your thinners tin when you start. Then as it dries, you can touch the paint on the can and when you pull your finger away and the can sticks, put a heavier coat on your part and the paint won’t run (within reason).

I think crash and smash are getting expensive for the RAF now as well as busy. A mate of mine was there for a long time and has a high number of days under his LSA belt.

but they were involved in the Raspberry Ripple GR1 move a few years back before they called in JetArt so you never know.

Yep, got an Israeli 7.62, got a 1919A4, got a L3A2, got a 1919A6 and got a 1917A1 but the Canadian C1 is alluding me! Not common but they are out there.

Unless it’s a Canadian 7.62, I’d pay more than an original condition .30cal was worth.

It all depends, there’s a pre EU spec gun for sale on a well known site for £2250 plus the cost of bringing It up to the current spec. It’s been for sale for a while so no one is willing to pay that. I would have thought at £1000 it may sell but I always think of the days I bought my first at £400, 2nd at £600 and 3rd at £700 (dry functional) and would hate to pay much for an EU gun.

44 minutes ago, paulob1 said:

if you use a commercial firm it will cost significant amounts of cash, to do it I need a number of volunteers and a number of knowledgeable paid staff and some of my own team.....but transport costs will always be big crane hire a pain but all in all not too bad...

What sort of volunteer do you need?

Im a serving aircraft engineer so familiar with stripping them but not au fait with V Bombers (a little before my time).

A lot may also depend on location. There weren’t actually many Thompsons in use, so later in the war they were issued to areas where the US would also be operating. This gave a common calibre of ammunition to ease the supply chain. 

This article explains

http://www.karkeeweb.com/patterns/1937/1937_pistol_equipment.html

I don’t think that chap is getting much job satisfaction. Looks like he’s just done a 100 mile round trip for nothing.

Tell your dad that a Plumber says hello and wishes him all the best.

I hope your father can get to see this aircraft. There are quite a few serving and retired RAF on the forum who know what these aircraft mean to us. I worked on Tornado F3 for 10 years and there’s now only a few left, it reminds me of some fun times.

They don’t look like the shells from the Hispano, the look to be longer and the examples I own and have seen are Brass (I’m assuming the OPs are painted steel).

I would agree, the Mk1 version.

Another rudge owner with MV interest. We must be a rare breed.

I’ve got an old 1936 Rudge motorcycle that a few years ago I was trying to regain the original reg. I have 3 old tax discs which is a start and DVLA said they can likely re-issue the reg but with a not for sale or transfer caveat which is fine by me.

THAT......looks nice!!

Standard Brit 3” mortar bipod and base plate. I think you will be very lucky to find a deactivated barrel and if you do, it will be expensive. You should budget about £3000 to £4000 in my opinion.

Yep, pot metal, a barrel that’s fixed as you can plainly see it hasn’t dropped like a real one would.

if you were to do a side by side comparison, even a gun newb would pick out the real gun.

I thought I'd already replied but my reply hasn't been posted, agh well. When you swapped the carb, did you also swap the 1a float bowl? Is it a 1a for sure? What size banjo bolt are you using? The wrong size can cause fuel starvation as the float bowl can sit lower than the jet block and needle etc.