Chris Hall

The problem here is likely that the contract was delayed. It was contracted in Feb 42 but not completed until 44. If you look at the census numbers they are correct for 1943/44. The frame is also a late frame  with the open stand castings. 
 

there are later contracts and serials that were completed and delivered before this earlier contract.

On 7/9/2020 at 3:00 PM, steviem said:

Guys, i have some nasty dents in the hood and wish to try heat shrinking, will butane heat the metal enough for it to work.

Steve

A shrinking disc is likely better than butane. You need a short sharp localised heat on the raised part, butane will be slow and heat up a large area which defeats the object really. It is amazing how it works, some say you can’t move metal but after seeing the Rolls Royce guys at work, I beg to differ.

Yes, erm.....my jeep looks like someone took a cheese wire to it and turned it to smaller chunks! I will hopefully be welding the 3 big chunks to the new front and rear floors soon. I just need to some good weather and some good luck. If I was brave I would post some photos but I reckon there would be a lot of WTF have you done lol.

Just make sure you don’t regret selling them later! I’ve done that before.

I’ve been out of the loop regarding deacs since the EU law came in and I’ve got a few early Brens to move on (I don’t want to but I’ve got to make some space). Does anyone know if now the UK are leaving the EU, we can sell old spec deacs? I heard that the initial thought was that we could but then we couldn’t but I’ve seen lots for sale openly so I really don’t know. It’s another stupid rule to try and follow.

Will the bus be restored? I ask as I really like it as it is. It’s got a patina that has that ‘been there, done that and now I’m chillin look’.

It could be ex Falklands but that could mean a lot of things. It could be ex FI defence force, ex Falklands war, ex post war or any other multitude. When I was down there the Land Rovers stayed there until they died and they they were stripped for spares. Biggest problem were doors, I almost fell out of the drivers side when at 20mph the door opened and I almost hit a tanker. After that I wrapped the seat belt around the door handle.

That is a nice car, I know that look on the soldiers face! It’s the “and I get to play with this!” Look. 😎

What are the markings on the side?

That’s correct, I was told that years ago when I joined the forces. Any wooden stressed equipment should not be painted. I think a shellac was acceptable though. I also mentioned this to a retired fireman at a show years ago who had a painted ladder on display. He said he painted it because it was full of wood filler and it was just for show. Problem is that he knows that but the next owner may not.

i believe in some countries/areas such as Ontario it is against H&S regulations to paint wooden ladders with anything except a clear coat. It’s perhaps an old regulation but such an odd sounding one today maybe made much more sense 100 years ago.

Thanks, I’ve been watching his listings for a while to get an idea of parts availability and costs. Parts are cheaper than for the GPW even though they’re bigger in most cases. Shipping is likely to be the killer but I have a very good shipping method to get stuff home from the USA.

I would prefer more of a project even though they cost more in the long run. I enjoy the restoration/repairing over just buying something already done. I wish I’d picked up one of the ex-Israeli Halftracks 10 years ago when they were 10 to 12,000 Euros but having a family was priority back then.

Since then I’ve sold the bikes and bought a GPW which has been fun doing with my son chipping in with tool fetching. Now I’d like something a little bigger as I enjoy big jobs on big things. I’ve been repairing and fault finding fast jets for 25 years but I’m moving into more of a management role and miss the hands on, hence the dream of rebuilding a halftrack. It would be a very long term project though.

I  emailed that chap earlier to see if he’s a dealer and to see what sort of price these projects fetch. I’m not in the market yet but would like to know how much I need to save and what you would likely get for the money. 

I’ve been dreaming of a Halftrack to restore for years but how much would a project cost and does anyone know of a dealer who sell projects? I’d even consider the USA if the seller can help with exportation etc. I need to get a rough idea of costs so I have a target to save for.

obviously a lot depends on condition and what’s left but I’d like to do some research. What I’ve found so far is that they’re not as common as Jeep projects!!

Could be military, looks the size of a hand cart and has sockets for handles and a ring for towing?

Staman have been going for years and are well known in the surplus military market.

Fire, miss , Fire, miss, Fire, miss.

you lot are shit!!

over the back of Warcop are some Cromwell parts I found which Eddy8men went and confirmed. The farmers tractor regularly goes up there so they’re accessible but it’s the permission in this day and age that’s difficult to obtain. The DSA just put stupid values on things and are totally disorganised to say the least. They have their preferred buyers who they’ll bend over backwards for but anyone else is second rate. And once they know about something they are likely to offer it to that preferred buyer than let you, the notifier purchase it at it’s true value.

Ford GPWs had a yellow/green Chromate primer on the body. The early GPW frames and Willys frames had a black primer.

I’ve heard the TAS ones aren’t great and don’t appear to be concentric. It could be one of those try it and see occasions. 

I look forward to your crown wheel setup as I’ll need to do that at some point.

Yes, it’s the big nut that holds the jet block in and the float bowl bolt screws into. I can’t actually remember which is correct.

How’s it running, I remembered another issue with the carb, there’s 2 different depth nuts. If I remember correctly the incorrect one can cause your issues, especially if dropping the float one notch appears to fix it.

It should just pop out, it’s not in by much. Is the shaft free to rotate?

Is that GPA body original? That is amazing condition.

Ive got the early filter for mine too, with the F script on the top, it has its own story. I bought my jeep missing the filter and when I made enquires about it, I found the previous owner in the USA and he gave me some history on it and then said “I’ve got the filter for it here if you want it”. So on one of my 3 month trips over there (working) I had it sent to me and I brought it home. It has the top connector and the screw which was nice. I just need to find an F marked top for the Carb, they were like the filter end but the reinforcing disc on the top wasn’t drilled for the screw.

im well gell over your setup. Looks the bees knees.

Looking good, it’s amazing how just putting the green on makes it so much better.