Chris Hall

That’s nicely done, who did it for you? I’ve got 16 bogie wheels from my halftrack that could do with new tyres and it may work out cheaper than buying NOS or good used ones.

Any thickness will act as a heat sink, but the thicker the more rigid you can clamp to. I’ve been using 3mm which is a happy medium I think....but I’m by no means a pro.

40 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

Look at top right of page, the message link is still there but text is in black and not very visible. PM’s still working as normal

Can you show me where as I can’t see anything.

It looks like they’ve really mucked it up. I can view PMs I’ve been sent if I use the link in the email notification (which always go into my junk mail but never used to).

Can anyone access their PM as I can’t find anyway to read or write them.

I haven’t tried it but I would expect the heat needed to braze would cause the steel to warp. You ca n get a new section to weld in but I’d have a go at mig weld first, very slow and I would personally clamp a suitable thick steel (or copper if you have some) to the section to be welded as a heat sink and to keep everything aligned.

Another possibility is to contact some owners and if you have set space available, offer free storage of their Churchill. Their are a few well off owners who may lend you something to display. There’s likely other concerns such as insurance and liability etc. but it could be another option to consider.

Yes your lamp is a 50s era with underslung pilot lamp used on the G and others of the era.

for the lower lamp stay, if you compare the lower with the upper, the upper is a thin steel sheet item with a pressed centre to it. The lower is just flat bar stock but should be like the upper but of the correct length. The Hitchcock replacements just aren’t quite correct but Jan may be able to reproduce it better.

And the lower headlamp stay in the photos is a bar rather than the correct pressed item.

Your headlamps incorrect also, it’s similar to a DU42 but it has the underslung side light type thingy.

I have the same kit but under a different brand name. I only use a few of them for most of the jobs, the only issue I have with them is that sometimes I could do with the dollies being a bit heavier.

3 hours ago, steviem said:

Just seen two lovely jeeps in woodhall spa,  one named Valerie the other destiny i think,  nice chat with the women but the blokes were not very forthcoming,  nice to see two finished examples and give me a vision for "lil pud".

That’s my neck of the woods. Are you in the area?

Are you putting in a new riser?

I made one by making a former from a 6” steel tube and some 3mm sheet and angle iron. The JMP are good but the top and bottom on the corner are welded and not formed as the original. They are good and a little filler and careful sanding can disguise that.

Thanks for that, you may regret the offer of assistance.

I think I’ve got a floor sorted, it’s missing some of the hinged covers but there’s enough there to copy those and fit in the gaps. I’d have to see if someone makes repro hinges but I’m hoping they are the same as the M3.

The other option is to buy one of the same pattern and ask Martin Bratby to convert it to the correct spec. It wouldn’t have the correct number but as it will likely need a full rebuild it may work out cheaper and quicker.

How much do you want to pay and how desperate are you?

you could buy one now from British only Austria for 150 euro or wait for one on eBay or a auto jumble for a fraction of that.

https://www.vintage-motorcycle.com/en/parts/carburettor-bodies-used/carburettor-76-187-used

That’s the one, it’s got most parts with it except for the rear bed, track armour and side armour. It has some M16 armour and the rest of the side armour I can get repro. I’ve got leads on 2 original M16 floors, I’m picking up a 10” and 6” Maxon adapter ring in Feb 21, I can get a Maxon M45 mount from France, I have the M2HBs already, the track armour is similar to the M3 so I may buy repro and adapt.

my idea is to finish the 42 GPW whilst buying parts for the Halftrack as and when I can. I don’t know the state of the engine yet so haven’t decided if I should rebuild or buy a surplus french rebuild.

it will be a long, long resto.

Thanks for that, I need the seller to let me know how it’s arriving really. He thinks it’s a curtain sider and I’ve a feeling it’s piggy backing onto another delivery from Holland to the UK. Ideally I would have liked a flat bed with a suitable hiab but that’s looking unlikely.

On the bright side I have located a storage plot about a 5 minute walk from my house. It’s caravan storage but the owner has a bit of hard standing he can’t use so I’ve got it. Pretty happy at it being so close to home.

I’ve been using a flapper disc to take off the rough welds and then as I approach the level required, I finish with a rotary sanding disc on a drill.

I’ve not got it yet, it should be arriving sometime soon. I just need to unload it once it’s here which isn’t proving too easy. It’s going to be on a tautliner so I think it’s going to need a crane.

Its an M3 but it comes with M16 armour (not M16A1) so I’ll likely rebuild it as an M16. 
 

ive found a caravan storage yard which is about a 5 minute walk from my house which is really handy. The chap there has given me a bit of hard standing behind a caravan which he can’t use but there’s still enough space to get parts past. When it arrives I’ll take some photos and then it will be the long task of collecting parts while I finish the GPW.

Those that have had issues probably haven’t considered that the fuel is much better than it was 70+ years ago and their engines and carbs are likely also tired. And in the States (I would guess 75% on the G are US based) the petrol has a lower Octane rating than the U.K. (Regular is about 87) which will also play a part.

Also look for the Post war model J tank as some used a CO tank with a wider indentation on the underside.

Anyone know of a farm or storage unit that can take a Halftrack and maybe help unload from a Flatbed? I’ve got one coming but just been told the truck doesn’t have a crane or hyab and I’ll need to unload it. I was going to put it on my drive but I don’t know how I can get a crane and a truck on to the drive with space to move.

TIA

On 7/18/2020 at 11:13 AM, gary0003 said:

Thanks everyone, can anyone suggest where I might find the correct petrol tank please?

Gary.

I’ve sold all of mine, went a while back but they show up quite regularly on eBay. They are longer and sleeker the post war G and fit the frame better. I’ve a feeling the G tank was designed to give a greater clearance for the tele forks.