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Hello Davey, I've got a lovely pair of 900x16 ice tyres, they are a road tread, and are war time. they are brand new. I've also got 3 dunlop track grips and need a fourth!!! John

Hello Davey, I don't recognise that from anywhere else on a mw. But i think i know what it is, this my friend is MW bling, it looks like a one piece copy of the airfilter pipe from the flame arestor to the top of the carb? John

Hello Davey, Have you got any pictures? john

Hello Davey, The racing green is possibly bronze green from its rebuild in the 50s? On my mw i found black to be the base coat on the metal and the green painted on top of that. I would think you will find the green on some part that hasn't been painted, i found mine on the plate that holds the tow bar to the chassis. If you have the insulating plate on the engine side of the passenger side foot well, i found that to be totally un-painted on mine, or the inside of the dash etc. i had about an inch square of original paint and they matched it ok. If you can do it this way it'll be interesting to see if it different to mine....

Hello Davey, The best way to acheive the right colour is to get it matched to some original you find on the truck. Inside the dash, behind the insulating cover on the passenger side foot well, there's lots of places to find it, then you know for sure you have the right colour. Best wishes John

Can anyone tell me what these mirrors fit? 5" diameter.

Hello Davey, The engine should be black, the blue/green colour is a post war thing. I used black smooth hammerite on my engine. While you have your head off, it's worth checking the manifold face for distortion or pitting, and the manifold face on the cylinder head, it'll probably be worth having these skimmed at this stage save you problems with the manifold later. Also change the gasket between the two manifolds. John

Hello davey, There are quite a few mw's being restored in yorkshire. It looks a fairly complete truck you have. Have you found the chassis number? The Z number should be on the doors, i think it was mainly the aeroscreen MW's that had it on the bonnet. It would have been on the back of the rear body below the tailboard, the best chance you have of finding the original z number is to find it on the truck, so be carefull removing the old paint. If your very lucky the RLC museum may have the card for your truck and the z number and contract number will be there, i think it costs £25 to do a search, if you look up the rlc museum on google you will find the details there. The contarct number was generaly on a small plate on the body, and on a small plate on top of the dash, do you have any original plates for it? To change the core plugs you need to take the engine out, as there is a core plug on the back of the engine, and if the others are weeping that one needs doing to. The rear lights shoulf be rubbolites No 5 and 5a one brake light and one rear light, like this, Best wishes John

I was going to down load tapatalk, but i read the reviews first and steared well clear, the forum works fine without it.

Hello wally, These cataloge are fantasic thanks for putting them up. On this one above lot 715 bedford armoured car? thought this would have been the armadillo based on the OXD, but it says its a 4x4? any ideas? thanks john

Yes that is correct Danny, it it called a "wired edge" as the plate it wrapped around the wire, and the wire is left inside the edge for stenght. how flat the plate is after the edge has been formed depends how good the fabricator is at making the edge especially around the raduis at the bottom. I had brass wire put inside mine. I think it's the same size as the wried edge on the front wings. John

Hello Danny, The edge of the mudflap is rolled around 1/8 bar so the outside diameter will be plus the metal thickness. The mudflap is completely flat. john

These look very much like the one's in the picture i gave you, can you put my name on the middle one please..

Hello mate, This is a bedford MW,OX,OY or QL cylinder head spanner 1940's.

Hello Danny, The mudflaps have a rolled edge around the outside, its rolled around 1/8" bar (4). The two bottom corners of the flap have a 1 1/2" radius on them (3). I had mine remade locally, i had the plates made to the above dimensions and then trimed the top corners to suit where they were fitting on the truck to leave no gaps for the water to get through, each one was different (1-2). I do you a drawing if your struggling. john

Hello Danny, The plates on mine measure 14" wide, 15 3/4 long, so your not that far out. Maybe your body came from a morris? John

there's a circlip holding it in. If you look up Danny p's master cylinder thread and there's a sectional picture on there showing it.

Hello Phill, Yes there should be two of the spring plates, are you missing the can holder and toolbox? thats what these should bump against. The loom runs down the driversside of the chassis :-D. John

Hello, The 2 gallon can holder on the passenger side of he body is described in the parts manual as "water can carrier" so not for petrol, i think it maybe for the vickers they were designed to carry in the back? I've been told the v in the tailboard is to allow the barrel of the gun clearance. The toolbox on the driverside rear corner of the body is described as a tow rope locker in the parts list. In the picture i have of a MW with it tool kit laid out there are a set of trye chains in the kit and two towing chains so i guess this is what the locker is for, but the drivers handook doesn't mention the tow chains or the tyre chans being in the tool kit. A wartime leather tool bag fits in there snugly, but it pretty much fills it. So i'm not exactly sure what goes in there but i'll be putting a toolbag in mine. Phill the fold down step is a mwr feature it lists it in the parts book, so i guess it explains why you haven't got the holes for steps in your tailboard. From what i remember your tailboard all looked pretty original, and i've not seen another like it. Right whats the next question? John

Helllo gps, I'm not sure about the box theory, but it sounds right enough. Your body is a MWR one for sure, the tailboard on your is different to a "standard" mw tailboard, it was missing the foot step holes and the V in the middle wasn't as deep as normal. john

Hello Jeremy, A couple more pictures showing the early badge. The checkerplate steps on yours are a later addition too, they should be a wooden board, the MWG had its originals on.

Hello Andy, John Morter has the original boxes with a modern cutout inside. John

Pete, Robert, Thank you for the replies, great that gives me a bit more to go, I can start researching these things first, give me a bit more time there.

I'm sure the staff are really good, but how do i help them find the correct files?