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andypugh

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Everything posted by andypugh

  1. andypugh

    1911 Dennis Fire Engine 3035

    I don't have one of those angle blocks (how embarassing) but might be able to sort something out at the weekend. Looking on Google, LP83989 seems to have a few degrees of flare: https://goo.gl/images/fRX49c But FA1075 (One of Asciidv's ) seems to have completely flat wings: https://goo.gl/images/1oKCos Barry can probably do a statistical analysis, he has an infinite number of N-types (for statistical purposes)
  2. andypugh

    1911 Dennis Fire Engine 3035

    Is that a Dennis / White and Poppe engine? It does suffer from the common crank-too-high problem mentioned by Ben, but does look to be fairly narrow.
  3. andypugh

    1911 Dennis Fire Engine 3035

    There are some photos here of me bodging together our brass radiator (A neater job has been performed since, I feel the urge to add). https://union.ic.ac.uk/rcc/rcsmotor/gallery/index.php/2010s/2014-15/Fresher-s-Week-inc-Radiator-Rebuild/20141008_183443 I was hoping that there would be pictures of the back of the top tank, but there do not seem to be any good ones. However working from memory I would say that your existing top-tank has all the normal fittings, and might well be a modified original brass radiator top tank mated to a later core and side members.
  4. andypugh

    1911 Dennis Fire Engine 3035

    That doesn't look like a cast top tank, apart from the bolt-on flanges. Is it brass or aluminium?
  5. andypugh

    1911 Dennis Fire Engine 3035

    Barry has one, but I imagine he wants to keep it with its pumping set. Our 1916 has the later Tomini(?) pump (1920-ish, Dennis No 2 I think they call them) and it looks the part, despite not being right. (It has been there rather longer than original pump was by now). https://goo.gl/images/ZyZX8i They made a lot more of those, though they switched to aluminium at some point, and that wouldn't look right. We have a reversing and speed-up gearbox mounted where the priming pumps should be, though if I was doing it now I think I would look at changing the ratio in the transfer box and flipping the pump rotors instead. (It's nice that you still have the transfer box) If you happen to find two Gwynnes in your search, we will take one off your hands. 🙂
  6. andypugh

    1911 Dennis Fire Engine 3035

    The vehicle I play with spent 19 years as a fire engine with the LFB then 20 years as a fire engine at a Chemical plant. Then 62 years (and counting) taking students on pub crawls 🙂 (But it hasn't ever really been "restored" so the question of what to rebuild it as is moot, It has, however, had the "wrong" pump a lot longer than it ever had the "right" pump)
  7. andypugh

    1911 Dennis Fire Engine 3035

    I think that this might make sense sometimes, and arguably is not done enough. But I suspect that this engine transplant was done when the vehicle was being used as a mobile (probably agricultural) pump and anybody with a fire engine is (quite reasonably) most likely to want to restore it as a fire engine. Because Fire engines are the Acme of the preserved commercial world 🙂
  8. andypugh

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    It seems to be widely reported, so may be true, but I very much doubt if it had any effect.
  9. andypugh

    Registration plate

    You will (probably) need the paper version of the Nova form, the online form doesn't allow you to cross things out. Here is a write-up of what I needed to do to get my Ner-a-Car (no registration _or_ chassis number) registered: You have a chassis number so ought to be able to skip the V55/5 form (which is an application for a chassis number) How to register a vehicle with no VIN or chassis number I tried to do some web research about how to register a vehicle like mine, with no chassis number while making sure to get an age-related plate, tax exemption and MOT exemption. Firstly it is very much easier if there is a chassis number. The DVLA do not appear to have an exhaustive list of chassis numbers. This is a hint. However, I didn't have a chassis number so the process is this: 1) Get a dating certificate from an owners' club. I got one from the VMCC and it took a little over a month. 2) Send off the V55/5 form. This is a paper form that you have to apply for on the DVLA web-site and takes 10 days to arrive. You can save time by sending for this in advance. 3) Return the V55/5. You will need lots of supporting info, including an insurance certificate. You might need to shop around. Footman-James were adamant that a bike could not be insured without a frame number or reg number, Adrian Flux were happy to insure on the engine number. If you don't have a chassis number the form will come back to you with a new VIN to have stamped on the Chassis by a garage, a demand for the £55 new-registration fee (new VIN = new registration) and a demand for a NOVA declaration reference. 4) Send off for the NOVA paper form. This is an HMRC form for imports. You can do it all online, except if your vehicle isn't actually an import. In which case nothing fits and you need the paper form and a covering letter. This also takes 10 days to arrive, so send off for it in advance. You can read the HMRC guidelines and end up convinced you don't need a NOVA for this situation, and you would be right, but you do need a reference number and letter to prove it. 5) Get the chassis stamped then send off the NOVA letter, V55/5, dating certificate, photos, £55 cheque, letter confirming chassis has been stamped, proof of address, driving license photocopy and insurance certificate then wait 3 more weeks. 6) Shiny new V62 arrives with a registration number to use.
  10. andypugh

    More WW1 truck film

    It's actually the fault of the forum, not the URL, apparently. (looking at the page source) I wonder if links done via the editor work better? (No, they didnt)
  11. andypugh

    More WW1 truck film

    The odd thing is that the URLs seem to be forwarded by Getty to Viglink. It's a bit strange. A bit of digging suggests that it _might_ be an attempt by Getty images to make money from their content.
  12. andypugh

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    I suspect he is in the workshop constructing the patterns to cast a new computer.
  13. andypugh

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    Leaving castings to age was (and, to an extent still is) normal in the machine tool industry. A Google search "seasoned site:www.lathes.co.uk" finds a few lathe manufacturers using the phrase (none seem to use "weathered" on the same site)
  14. andypugh

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    Age-hardening is a deliberate feature of many Aluminium alloys.
  15. andypugh

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    I think they called it "seasoning". Googling for "seasoned castings" found this: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/factory-storing-castings-outside-to-age.1015700/
  16. andypugh

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    The opinion of Messers Thornycroft seems to differ, though. If I recall correctly the goslings used 3 thou because that is what it said to use in the Thornycroft manual. I wonder if it is possible that they were using a special grade of iron, though?
  17. andypugh

    WW1 Peerless lorry restoration

    That sounds like they might actually be better than the electric light on my 1921 motorcycle. Which really doesn't emit any useful amount of light for seeing with. The one time I rode it in the dark on a country road was terrifying.
  18. andypugh

    WW1 finds and discoveries

    The vehicle photo shows shackles front and back of the rear springs, whereas the chassis photo only seems to have them at the back. But I don't think that necessarily precludes them being the same, as Dennis made vehicles with both arrangements, some with 2 shackles and a torque arm, and some with 4 shackles and sliding blocks. (I think that Ben has one of each)
  19. andypugh

    WW1 Peerless lorry restoration

    Would it be fair to assume that these emit practically no light at all? I am aware that Acetylene lights can actually be very effective, but I imagine that this is not as much the case for oil lamps?
  20. andypugh

    1914 Dennis Lorry

    How much of the clutch-release shaft do you have? I suspect that there is quite a lot of work in the pull-links etc? (And that these will need to be a non-standard length)
  21. andypugh

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    It runs with ballscrews on both axes.
  22. andypugh

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    If it helps I have a lathe that can be configured for oval turning.
  23. andypugh

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    I think that pistons were generally machine circular in the time period when these vehicles were made, and one reference I found seems to suggest that this was the case right up to WW2. ( http://www.voc.uk.com/net/docs/3.1/3.1-653-15.pdf ) Also bear in mind that the clearance required for an aluminium piston will be much more than that for an iron piston, which might go some way to reconcile the disparate numbers suggested here (from 3 thou specified by Thornycroft to 12 thou specified by a poster here) I suspect that the Goslings might even be able to fix their problem with a bit of judicious piston swapping. Maybe the biggest piston is in the smallest bore at the moment and things are otherwise within spec.
  24. andypugh

    1914 Dennis Lorry

    It lives! But your air-viscous drivetrain might limit top speed.
  25. andypugh

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    Did they abandon the dual ignition on the later models then? Starting our 1916 is _reasonably_ easy.
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