andypugh

Is thicker-wall tube too obvious a suggestion? I would reckon on boring the tube internal to suit the forgings. A drill or reamer will just follow the existing bore. 31/32" and a bit more turning of the forgings? Ebay 133542817126 might do the trick.

Maybe interesting? https://youtu.be/qpy5O0b7cL8?t=396

Ben gets sent to India rather more often than he would like.... (But it's a big place)

The second finest railway station in the land. (After St Pancras)

Maybe not even the top chopped off. The perspective is different (wide angle lens?) but the top panels and number of bays is the same, the same odd round window is probably hiding behind the JD logo. Perhaps the "Karrier Works" letters were wooden rather than carved into the stone?

I don't know enough about the history of Karrier to make the submission to the listing body. So I am not volunteering. (Just in case anyone was assuming that I had started the process) Hard to say. I don't recognise it, but then I only saw the existing one for the first time last week. The successor company might know, they seem well aware of their history: http://www.clayton-penistone.co.uk/about-us.aspx

I emailed the local planning officer (I have had previous contact with him). --------8<------------------------ Hi Andy For it to be listed by Historic England it would need to be of importance nationally, although contribution to the national war effort may help the building make the grade. I recall the site of a large munitions works near Thorp Arch was scheduled recently. The guides used by Historic England to determine if a building is listable is online at https://historicengland.org.uk/images-books/publications/dlsg-industrial/heag134-industrial-buildings-lsg/ Its interesting that the building appears to date from 1917, or at least part of it does. We may, emphasis on the may, develop a local list of buildings of interest in the future so it may be suitable for that if not. Unfortunately we’ve not got the capacity at the present time to put buildings forward for listing, but if you’ve got good knowledge of the company and their role in the war effort it would be worth giving it a go. The forms are online at https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/apply-for-listing/

I wonder if it would be helpful to drill the centre of the thread and the spigots to bond in some mild-steel rods, to "catch" the lamp in the event that the cast iron cracks? Though it probably won't.

I just had a look at https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/map-search (search for Nile Street, Huddersfield) and the Karrier Works is not listed. I wonder if a submission should be made? Karrier were an important Huddersfield company for several decades.

Yesterday afternoon I was bringing my mum's car back from getting some new tyres and realised that I was passing the Karrier factory, so popped round for a look. It is currently operating as an indoor car park, which means that if one wished you could have a look inside. (I didn't) https://goo.gl/maps/oRu2ERmF7D5KKun96 The far end of the building has a "To Let" sign on it at the moment, so perhaps you could rent it as a home for your truck 🙂

One of the vehicles active on the rally circuit might have been in the TV series or film: https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/phpbb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17557&sid=f0a11eb58f82fafd1553dd405088f14c "Fellmonger" is a word I was unacquainted with until I met the car on the Isle of Wight.

Why paint before pattern coat? I have found that a coat of pattern coat (sanded) is all that is needed.

At 5p a gill you could probably make money on the deal, there must be literally a couple of people who want some.

When he loads the tube into the chuck it appears to be free-floating. I think that it must be self-feeding as a result of the fins running up against each other.

Or make one. I would suggest a servo-controlled actuator for the ram and an XY stage to move a piece of sheet under it, with machine vision to ensure that the die is clear before moving the sheet to the next position. Like a Trumpf CNC punch.

I can only suggest witchcraft 🙂 I think it would require a die to keep a metal strip straight as it was wrapped. Possibly the strip could be heated by a gas jet as it went in to help with stretching the outer edge? If you were to leave off some gills at one end you could slip the new tube in, lift it too high, drop it down and then somehow finagle in some gill with a slit cut in. Maybe. I have already designed a set of dies for my tool for the circular crinkled gills. But I haven't bothered to make it yet.

This is very similar to how some aluminium parts are assembled nowadays: https://www.aluminium-brazing.com/2010/09/29/cladding-alloys/ And, thinking about it, there is no reason that the tubes need to be dipped in solder, they could be dipped in pure lead, probably at a much lower cost. I have a bullet casting pot (that I use for pewter casting) which is a stainless pot with what looks like a kettle element wrapped round it. A Stainless tube with a similar element and some mineral insulation would probably do the job (dipping the tubes vertically) Or sticking out the top of the gas fired casting forge (which you haven't built yet, but surely you need one).

I have put up a slightly more informative video about how the tool works. https://youtu.be/NlFNOK4abeE

If you have infinite patience, I have just built a tool to make those square radiator tube fins. See the 1908 Dennis thread.

Further experimentation has shown that by adjusting the height of the spike, so that it doesn't quite "iron out" the petals against the inside of the top bore, it is possible to get the required turned-over tips. For consistency the press would need to be operated to a consistent point every stroke. This probably needs a slightly thinner spring seat shim, as there is a positive internal stop, but currently it isn't obvious by feel.

I suspect that induction heating would have the same problem, but even worse, as induction doesn't really heat copper at all. And they are pretty cheap. I use one of these for repairing pewter tankards: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-SMD-858D-Soldering-Repair-Desoldering-Station-Hot-Air-Rework-Tool-3-Nozzles/123935889600

Yes, definitely the best way. But even a trough built specifically for doing one tube at a time (40 x 40 x 700mm) would need about 10kg of solder and some way to heat it. And that would be £250 of solder just to fill the trough, before any tubes are soldered. (And I think that is why it is hard to find anywhere that can dip a complete radiator, that's a _lot_ of solder to have tied up, and a lot of energy to melt it)

Productivity enhancement. I added a stripper and a foot-operated air blast to clear the completed parts. https://youtu.be/Bpb68xB6zTc 8 parts in 45 seconds, down to 20 hours to make the set. I had the idea last night that I should have drilled the lower follower for air blast, and then could have used the piston action to valve an air blast from the pressurised lower section. But it's all hardened now, so too late to be drilling holes. Soldering is likely to be fun. I would imagine that assembly with solder paste and then running over each tube with a torch would be the cheap way. (melting enough solder to dip a complete tube would be the quickest and easiest). I have experimented and found that the fins sucept well in an induction heater coil, which would be a high-tech way to melt solder paste.

One action to make the square, torus and petals. But no petal-turning-over. https://youtu.be/j0FX1ER4URY In the video above I make 5 in a minute. So 14,000 would be 46 hours of work. It could be much faster with a stripper to pull the sheet off the punch, and with an air-blast (maybe on a foot switch) to kick the finished part into a hopper.

I think that I could slightly re-design the existing punch and die so that EDM-ed pieces would cut the profile, while keeping hardened silver steel for the parts that do the forming. Probably an idea to keep in reserve if tool life proves to be an issue.