andypugh
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Everything posted by andypugh
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I am trying to decide if it's a generator set, or an engine under test on a dynamometer. It looks more like the former, but the scale of the base might point to the latter.
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The Wikipedia page for the Federal Motor Truck Company says: "Federal built its first U.S. military trucks in 1918, for the U.S. Air Force. More diverse military (tractor) trucks, including tank transporters, dump trucks, and heavy wreckers, were built for U.S. forces from 1933 through 1945. Federal produced over 10,000 trucks for the military."
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_Richard_Montgomery
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The pinion damage could be due to the bearing failure (if bad enough) I would test the contact with the new bearings and then make the decision.
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I can make those vernier couplings from scratch, if that's any help in the future. Here is one I made earlier: https://photos.app.goo.gl/erDQQfRWMD61Bh339
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How has the punch/die held up? Did it require any sharpening or rework?
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This discussion here has pictures of the works as-was and links to Google Maps images of what is there now. https://hmvf.co.uk/topic/41251-karrier-wds/page/10/
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I would think that building it up (with silver solder, or brazing rod, or MIG brazing wire) and re-cutting the thread would retain more originality.
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I was misinterpreting the photo, clearly. You could probably have it 3D printed in bronze. Might not be cheap, though. But I imagine that your plan is to make a pattern out of wood, leather and gutta-percha and send it to a foundry?
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You may need several. Those thin pressed-brass parts look like an interesting application for 3D-printed press tooling. According to that YouTube it can work surprisingly well.
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Following Asciidv's lead: https://www.heritagesteamsupplies.co.uk/10-1-4-long-x-5-8-od-gauge-glass-tube.html
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The search led me to https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203930200361 Which also shows an "Oil Cabinet" which is a better match for the device in question as it has a similar arrangement of an outlet spigot inside the lid.
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Indeed. I had a bit of a look myself, and was interested to see "Locksmiths - see Whitesmiths". Also 4 manufacturers of Shoddy but none of the related "Mungo". Though thinking about it Mungo might have been developed after 1886. <google> No, it existed by then: https://kirkleescousins.co.uk/shoddy-and-mungo/
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Seems odd to get enthusiastic about a parts-washer, but that's lovely. Page 207 here has them listed at West End Mill https://www.bradfordfhs.org.uk/_resources/tradedirectories/post-office-bradford-directory-1887-8.pdf And that itself is listed between Norcroft Brow and Longside Lane which leads me to suspect that they were here: https://goo.gl/maps/CnQ4BdY45PUBDhYX9 or here https://goo.gl/maps/rUxbMDfzEHvShNht8 The first one seems have been demolished by the university, if you move about it disappears.
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http://www.e-m-p.biz/classic-cars/ have done some almost magical repairs on bits of our 1916 Dennis (and the 1905 car) with laser welding of ancient aluminium.
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Odd to use a coronet for "peerless" as it is a sign of rank of the peerage 🙂
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Possibly a little late now, but one approach to the clearance angle issue would be to shim the blade back in the slot (away from the axis) when turning it on the lathe , then remove the shim so that it is closer to the axis for cutting.
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From the text: NEBRASKA TRUCK HOARD AUCTION!! Selling Over 950 Trucks & Vehicles!! An amazing collection of Rust-Free Western Nebraska Gems!! Brand Names include: Diamond T, Peterbilt, GMC, Chevy, Dodge, Ford, International, Autocar, White, McDonald, Kenworth, Freightliner, Federal, Reo, Stewart, FWD, Oshkosh, Studebaker, Jeep & Others! Autocar? Do you have enough yet Steve?
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1:10 shows a very different attitude to food hygiene to now!
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The logo does seem extremely similar to the one that you posted several years ago: https://hmvf.co.uk/topic/218-ww1-peerless-truck/?do=findComment&comment=360570 Whether it is not identical because the artwork for the plaques would have been hand-drawn back then, or whether it is similar because of typographical conventions of the time is hard to tell at this remove.
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Randomly saw this in Youtube. Going by the logo plate it is the same Peerless.
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I think I would bore a tapered socket to push it into and a plug for the tailstock to do the pushing.
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It's interesting to note that the wheel bearings on the Dennises are simple bronze sleeves. And seem to bear up reasonably well. Easy (if expensive) to re-make.
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Whilst agreeing that the adjustable spanner [1] was the right answer here, I thought it worth mentioning that I have had decent luck 3D printing sockets and special drivers (most recently for bicycle disc brake mounts) [1] The Germans call an adjustable spanner 'Ein Engländer" in exactly the same sense as we call it a "Monkey Wrench"
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In a curious coincidence, I am on a Holbrook lathes mailing list, and someone has just got themselves a lathe originally sold to the successor of the Lincoln Clayton (Clayton Dewandre, https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Clayton_Dewandre_Co ) in 1958.
