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Old Bill

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Everything posted by Old Bill

  1. Old Bill

    Karrier WDS

    That is a good satisfying job and I love the punch! It is so nice to have just the tool for the job! Steve
  2. Old Bill

    Karrier WDS

    Hi Doc. This is Dianes website: https://www.loco-nameplates.co.uk/ Her email is at the bottom and is the address that I use. She is delightful to deal with and her work is wonderful. She has done a good number of plates for our lorries over the years and runs a Sentinel steam waggon. Drop her a line! Steve
  3. I have had a nice day today. Started off by getting the front wheels out of the car. Along with the springs, they have been doing a good job of keeping the back end down. They just need a bit of attention from the painting department and then they will be ready to fit. We have been looking at the back springs and, whilst they are not too bad, there is some rust build-up between the leaves. We decided to dismantle them to clean out the gaps. Now, taking springs apart can be quite exciting, not to say hazardous due to the stored energy in the curved leaves. This needs to be released gently and under control so I started the day by making up some clamps using some box section and some studding. The screwed rod allows the tension in the springs to be released slowly and under control. Fitting the clamps to the spring. Next step was to release the centre bolt and then slowly back off the nuts on the studs. This went without a hitch although the leaves did need some encouragement to slide over the centre bolt. Then they just lifted off. There are a lot of bits in a spring! The inter-leaf rust. Soon removed with a wire brush although we both ended up black as the ace of spades! A bit of rod through the centre hole to keep the leaves in line and then it was just a case of tightening up the clamps. Fit the cleaned-up centre bolt back in the hole. Release the clamps and job done. It only remains to re-make the clips before the return to the paint shop. The second rear spring is also coming apart ready for a clean-up tomorrow. Steve 🙂
  4. Dad is pushing on with the paintwork which is proving tricky as we normally use the space under and around the chassis to store 'stuff'. It is currently all over the place and generally 'in the way'! In the meantime, I went to see Jones' Springs in Wednesbury yesterday to pick up the front springs which they have sorted out for us for us. They have done a really nice job replacing a number of leaves, a couple of new bushes and resetting them to be a matched pair. I got personal service, a genuine interest in what they are for and they took plastic on collection so really nice people to deal with. Here is the result: Just going outside to trim the centre bolts and get the first coat of primer on them. Steve 🙂
  5. Hi David. Sadly, I don't have one but just crew from time to time. You can just seen it in the picture next to our Thornycroft on the last page of our Thorny thread. Steve
  6. Hi Tomo. Yes, we had the same problem! However, I made a pattern for the pivot point and also for the brake lever. John has them both at the moment so they are available for you to use. The pivot point casting, I tapped in the back rather than putting the bolts right through as they wouldn't have left room for the nut. Quality of my pattern making I am afraid! All went together OK in the end but a real pain to assemble with the seat on! Have fun! Steve
  7. Hi David. Great to have you here! Speaking as a Sentinel man, I am sure we can find some relative merits to discuss! Regarding photo captions, once you have inserted the pics in your post, just click the cursor next to the photo and it will allow you to write the text at that point, just like 'Word'. Looking forward to following the progress. Steve
  8. Nice find! They will come back OK with a bit of persistence. Looking forward to following the story! Steve 🙂
  9. That is a good question. I would guess at not much more than 'nipped up'. These do have a little tension on them but are seized solid and, as the frame is straight and won't carry any significant load, then we shall leave them alone. Steve 🙂
  10. Old Bill

    Karrier WDS

    Now, that is a neat job! Makes my efforts with a Stanley knife look seriously rough! You are making some serious progress with this job. You'll be out on the road in no time. Steve
  11. There are some good lessons there. I had heard that the tyres were wired on but could never fathom how they closed the joint. Thanks Chaps! I haven't been leaving Dad to do everything although it does feel like it some times. Two of the things we need are some new pistons as the originals had been broken by a previous restorer so I have made up the pattern for them. It started off as usual with a pile of MDF blanks, glued into a block. Using the press as a convenient clamp. The main plug was just a simple turning job in Father's Colchester. I must treat him to a dust extractor! That was straightforward enough. On to the core box which I built up in the same way. However, this time the block is splitacross the diameter of the hole and then held together with long wood screws. before boring. The profile was machined inside using the dials to get the position and depth right. Very easy to make a mess of! Both blanks were then taken home and I set about making a strong point to allow the piston plug to be drawn from the sand. it is just a tapped boss silver soldered to a plate which is then screwed to the top of the plug. The core box split quite nicely and I fitted the screw holes with some alignment pegs before making the gudgeon pin bosses. These were fitted along with a rib across the crown and some bosses to take the gudgeon pin locking screws. Filler all round, dressed back with the dremel. A messy unsatisfying job as I can never get really nice smooth fillets. I must try to get hold of some pattern makers wax. I have never used it but understand that it can be smoothed with one's finger which must be an easier process. First coat of paint and a bit of remedial filler where I hadn't done it very well. A second coat of Bondaprime, polished back with wire wool and we are ready for a trip to the foundry! Hopefully, there won't be quite so many patterns with this lorry! Steve
  12. Old Bill

    Karrier WDS

    What a nice find. Filing them out would have been a bit of a chore! Steve
  13. Old Bill

    Karrier WDS

    This photo is on the wall in our production office at work so I had to scrounge a copy! 99% sure it is a Karrier. Steve
  14. Gorgeous! Too nice to paint! Steve :)
  15. Thank you gentlemen. There is always something to be learned! Once the Peerless wheels are cleaned up, they will probably simply be painted. The wood is too old and has soaked up too much 'other' for the linseed to do much good at this stage. An interesting topic! Steve
  16. They are lovely! How will you treat them? When we had wheels made for the Autocar many years ago, the wheelwright recommended painting them with a few coats of linseed oil diluted with white spirit. Took forever to dry properly but they seem to be OK> Steve
  17. Fascinating! Every part has a story! Steve
  18. What a super find! How was it identified? Fiats are not common! Steve
  19. Good luck with that. We shall look forward to seeing the photos! Steve
  20. Hi Ian. As Tim says, we won't be taking these apart as they are not showing any signs of spreading. There will be a little bit of rust between the leaves so I expect we will see some dust come out the first time on the road but I am not concerned. The only damping in the suspension is the friction between the leaves so we won't grease them either. I had heard that they tried greasing the leaves on Jezebel, the 1916 Dennis N type fire engine, and that her handling was noticeably degraded but Mr Pugh will be better placed to comment on that. Her performance is also significantly quicker than a lorry so we probably wouldn't notice the difference either way. Good luck with the International! Steve
  21. Hi Ed. That's right. There are two steel bands involved. One is part of the wheel and is shrunk on as a plain band, holding the wheel together. On a horse drawn vehicle, this would also be the tyre and in contact with the road. Solid tyres were made by first attaching a layer of bakelite (or it may have been ebonite. Someone correct me here!) around 1/4" thick to a steel band and then vulcanizing the rubber to that under pressure and heat. The tyre is held on by an interference fit between the two steel bands. We cut the old tyre bands off because, as you say, we have some complete tyres in stock and these bands were very corroded and not good enough for re-use anyway. Steve
  22. Yes, they are classic wooden artillery wheel construction, brought up to date by pressing a solid tyre around the outside. The tyres can be quite tricky to fit as the press must act on the steel band and not the wooden wheel. We have the front tyres in stores so, just as soon as Dad has finished cleaning the wheels up and priming them, we will visit the tyre press and get them put on. Got to keep Dad busy now that he is retired and has all the time in the world! Steve
  23. We have been tidying up loose ends today and considering our next steps. Once the chassis frame is painted, the next steps will be to fit wheels and axles. To that end we have selected a pair of rear springs and I have spent some time removing the shackles and pins so that they can be blast cleaned. I spent some considerable time trying to shift rusted-in split pins but to no avail. In the end, I gave up and cut the nuts off with the disc cutter. The nuts are quite thin and lightweight so we can make some more if necessary. I don't like destroying otherwise sound components but my patience was wearing thin! The two rear springs are now ready for blasting. The final task before the chassis can be sent for cleaning was to remove the remaining worn-out spring shackle bush. Dad made a plug with a hole for some studding and with a tube on the other end, jacked it out. The bush is pretty tired! Father has found a piece of bronze in stock to make a new one so that will be his next task. Fitting it should be a reverse of the removal exercise. We are going to need some wheels. Tim has selected two fronts which look pretty good so I proceeded to cut the tyre bands in order to remove them. The tyre had already started to peel from the first so I didn't have to cut the rubber. A gentle application of the disc cutter and the band split. It split with quite a bang and made us both jump! The wheel looks very nice indeed. The second wheel had a band but no rubber at all so splitting this was quite painless and we have two good wheels awaiting a clean up and painting. Now, we have old tyres to get rid of. The steel is easy enough but the rubber is a pain. We stripped the rubber from the steel by heating the inside. Anyone want ten feet of rotten old rubber with lumps of Bakelite attached? Home tomorrow and back to reality on Thursday. Happy New Year everybody! Steve
  24. Yes. That cost me a gashed finger when it slipped! The trouble is that my selection of spanners over 3" AF is a bit limited and I have to resort to the stillson which I consider brutal. A cold chisel is, however, beyond the pale on good bits. Steve
  25. With the success of the crossmember change, we are now pushing on to get the frame ready for blasting and painting. The jackshaft carriers each have a gland to prevent water from getting into the bearings. The gland itself is bronze with a steel lock-nut behind to prevent it from unscrewing. Unfortunately, the steel nut corrodes and expands until the bronze hex is sheared off as has happened here on the left hand side. Usual trick. Get it hot and then unscrew. The surprise was that it had a left hand thread and it took us quite a while to figure that out! Heat again on the other side. Dig into the face with a cold chisel remembering that this side would have a right hand thread. Fortunately it moved quite easily so that was good. Now we need a replacement. Tim had a dig in the stores and came up with a replacement which still had the hex attached. Heat again. Get it moving with the stillson wrench. And then unscrew. Tim fitted the replacement shackle casting. I punched out a few more rivets. There was a bend in a crossmember so a bit of heat and an adjustable spanner resolved that. Finally, our pal, John, came over with his welding set, repaired a crack and then built up an area where the engine mount had fretted half way through the top flange. This dressed back nicely with no notches or inclusions to set off any more cracks. The frame is all but ready to go now so it is just a case of arranging transport. The next step will be to get wheels axles and springs fitted so we are going out to identify the components we want to use and start preparing them. Last day today and back to work on Thursday. It's a tough life! Steve
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