peter75

I have 2 AFV water cans. one brass 1943 dated £75 and one galvanised not dated £25.

Peter.

I have a take off Bedford QL manifold. Not seen any damage. £125

Peter.

British WWII 4.2-Inch mortar accessories on the link below including launching cartridge extractors with webbing frog, firing pins, both patterns of muzzle covers and various other goodies. All original but located in the USA.

 

http://www.visualcollector.com/Tommy/TommyStuff/TommyStuff.htm

 

 

Thanks for the link I have sent an email.

Peter

I think it is for a wireless set N,o,11?

Peter.

Can any one post the measurement of the tube that runs along the top of the bulkhead on a MK2 carrier? It is stitch welded to a strip of flat plate. I need the outside diameter and wall thickness.

Thanks Peter.

I am looking for a base plate for a British 4.2" mortar.

I would also be interested in any other parts or kit.

Peter.

I think I still have a set of reprint manuals and parts book covering the 3/4ton 4*4 and 11/2ton 6*6.

sold my dodges years ago so no use to me just need to find them.

Peter.

The TD International's started on petrol and switched to diesel when warm.

They have a mag and plugs on one side and pump and injectors the other side.

There was a leaver which switched between the mag and the injection pump and shut off part of the head in the combustion chamber.

Peter.

Most were diesel.

Cat and International had petrol engines as alternative to diesel engines for some modles e.g. International T9 petrol and TD9 diesel.

Peter.

Dosen't anwser your question but bedford QL's are the same.

Peter.

Peter,

I would guess that at one of the army workshops rebuilding engines, they have had to replace a cylinder block with a new one and have used a non-QL block, hence why the engine number is prefixed QL. This was common practice, as a given number of engine were sent for repair and same number had to be returned.

 

Point I was making was that an un-machined block (QL) would not be suitable on other models of Bedfords with the shallow sumps (ie MW, OY, OX, etc.)

Thanks for the answer. I have asked several people but never had an answer that made seance.

Peter.

Its to do with the oil pick up screen. The standard 28hp has a plate just forward of the distributor to access the screen filter. The QL has to have a different sump with a well at the front end to clear the axle, so screen on that one is fitted to bottom of oil pump. An access plate in base of sump allows cleaning. The QL block is not machined for the filter screen.

 

Richard

Hi Richard.

Just to be different I have a QL engine with QL engine number that is machined for the OY type filter screen.

The second picture shows a unmachined QL engine.

Peter.

I need the 2 cast exhaust elbows that bolt to the floor of my m,k,1* bren carrier.

Part numbers are CTL2911, R,H and CTL2912, L,H.

Thanks Peter.

I need a drivers windscreen frame either N,O,S, or very good condition.

These are getting hard to find so will pay good price for a good frame.

Thanks Peter.

Are you looking for a rebuild project or a good to go?

I have a project.

Peter

Hi Jonathan,

I am looking at the manual of chassis dimensions and drawing shows a QLB to be 12 inches shorter from rear spring hanger to end of chassis, yours is not looking like a QLB or W chassis. Something else, looking at some photos of a QLW chassis with winch fitted, the winch fairlead sheaves are mounted just forward of the rear spring hangers. It would seem that the winch gear could have been transferred to a non-winch chassis (longer, ie QLD, QLR, QLC). Also the rear brings have increased to cope with the jib lifting load.

Next week I will try and get a photo of the exact location of the chassis number on mine so you can narrow your search.

 

Richard

Hi Richard your right the chassis to long. It should end 4" behind the behind the rear spring hangers but the winch gear is all original. I have been looking at a picture of a QLB without a body and could not see what was wrong. But the rear rollers and pulleys are about a foot to far back.

Peter.

Hi Jonathan.

I was told that the later cabs have a bolt in pannal under the drivers windscreen round the door post. Also do you have the hole in the roof for the hip ring?

If not it the cab should be before late 43.

I am not aswell up on the QL as the OY but my 44 QLT has the bolt in pannal and hole for the hip ring. The hip ring was first fitted 3/4 of the way through 43 on the OY's. I would think the QL's would be the same.

Both of my OY's have no chassis N,o, stamped in that I can find but I do have plates in the cabs.

I wish you the best with your restoration and hope you go to the trouble and cost to put the body work back to QLB.

Peter.

I have a pair of MW tanks which are solid but have had the outlets change so they have some holes drilled in that would need welding up and one filler neck has been cut in half but I have an OY neck to weld on. I would like £300 or swap.

There are some pictures on an old add on here.

Peter.

I have just read through this thread again and it is a true labour of love.

Great project, great workmanship, keep the post coming.

Peter.

I have had 3 pm's about the front wings and one about the bulkhead.

Thanks Peter.

I have decided to sell off my bedford MW parts as I have too meany projects.

I have a pair of solid petrol tanks which have had the outlets changed and one filler neck has been cut down. I can cut an OY neck off an old tank to weld on £350.

I have a 40/41 airo screen bulkhead that need new floor plates welding in which are included and some other repairs but is mainly solid £350.

I have a pair of solid and straight front wings £350.

I have a pair of doors and a windscreen frames £250

Peter.

Hi Chris.

I would look at the torque links where they attach to the axles and trunnion shaft. The holes can where and parts are difficult to get and it is a big job to change the trunnion shaft. I did one for a mate a few years back.

Also look at the foot wells round the front cab mounts these tend to rust as there are 4 layers of metal and water gets in. I welded up the same wc63 cab this year as I did the trunnion shaft on.

Best of luck peter.

Molasses works well and dosent touch original paint.

Needs to be free of oil and grease.

DO NOT put alloys in it. :embarrassed:

I use 7/8 parts water to 1 part molasses for a week to 10 day's and then scrub with wirebrush under tap and return for another week if needed.

As good as shot blasting if not in rush.

Peter.

I spent most of Monday finding and sorting out where I had put all the parts.

I did get some nuts and bolts and other small parts cleaned and primed and assembled the master cylinder.

Peter.

Have a good look in to the workshop manual before you assemble the brake master cylinder to the brake servo as the adjustment can be a bit tricky .

The adjustment needs to be spot on and on my servo I honed the aluminium cylinder to have the inside really clean.

 

Guy

Hi Guy, thanks for pointing out the clip on the QL.

A few people have said about the servo. I am going to try not to alter any thing just clean it up and change the leather diaphragm and hope I am lucky if not I will have to have another look.

Peter.