daleheywoodtanks

Thank you for your reply.

it is nothing like the 432 or CVRT setup, which I have done plenty of, it is a self tensioning setup, but I can’t figure it out yet. I will be working on it today so I will take some more detailed pics.

the second time I do it will be easy !

There must be somebody out there who could give me a clue how to take the tension out of this track so i can remove it, in order to take the back end off.

Any help would be appreciated.

I am looking for any form of manual or explanation notes for a Shutzenpanzer HS 30. I am trying to remove the engine, gearbox and steering unit. It is a rear access vehicle, the back end comes off to access engine etc, i am trying to find the correct way of doing this, does anyone out there know ? anybody have any experience with such things. eg. How do i de-tension the track ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated ?

PM sent

PM Sent

Simon.

Here are the measurements you asked for. Sorry it took so long.

A = 2580

B = 4250

C = 2820

D = i could not access the mortar hatch due to stuff being piled on top.

E = 1235

F = 1005mm

I hope this helps.

No problem Steve, I will be doing the measurements tomorrow.

Thanks again for posting Simon, fascinating stuff !

The vehicle the above call sign matrix was affixed to was, 42 Alpha.

Call sign matrix, found inside our CET. Ex Iraq.

May be of interest on some later models ?

Looks a shade lighter on this pic ?

Hi Justin.

It is light beige, not white. i will try to find the paint colour that i was told to use by cummins. I hope i still have the tin with RAL number on it !

Truly amazing work !

Keep it up !

Negative Rick.

OMD 90

or as Andy says, SAE 30 Mineral

PM Sent.

Hey Mac,

     I have a 432 i might sell, its a Mk1, it will be running and driving, but will need some cosmetic work, and a few bits and pieces. 

I believe there is a company up near Preston that is reconditioning older units such as yours.

I am about to get in touch with them, i need two 432 starters and a CVRT generator looking at.

I do have some spare take off B starters, what parts do you need ?

7 minutes ago, Dan77 said:

Hi Ron,

Reading your posts about restoring your stolly was the inspiration for me to buy mine, after wanting one for 25 years. I really enjoyed reading it  

You’ll have to excuse my ignorance, but would  you mind explaing (without going to too much trouble) how the disconnect happens in the muff coupling as that seems much better than what I was thinking but I don’t quite understand it?

thanks in advance Ron

Dan 

 

Ditto.

I am also half looking into the 'disconnect' option.

Awaiting knowledge from a superior being !

Well done on the escape hatch. It looks like it is in good order, and anything that is not, will be.

It should be a very useful vehicle for you.

Well done, and good on ya !

If i can be of any help let me know

36 minutes ago, rampant rivet said:

Stunning absolutely Stunning, great to see so many WWI vehicles on the move , thanks for posting wish I'd been there to see it in person.

Here, Here, Amazing and well done to all concerned !

Tarland, I hope these photos go some way to answering your questions ?

Many thanks 'FS' for the manual, that will be a big help, especially for the fitting of radios.

Hi Tarland.

Two small pumps on front sponsons operated by fire crew, moving or stationary. One larger pump on rear, again operated by fire crew.

Two IBC's on board, sometimes four.

All systems on the Shielder seemed to stand the heat pretty well. The tracks appear to have not been damaged. Especially after working hard every day for eight days !

I'll find some more photos.

How is the clean up on the shielder going ?

Have you found anymore issues ?