andypugh
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Everything posted by andypugh
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I thought the same, thanks for breaking the silence. I would expect the outer rim of the wooden wheel to be shrunk on in traditional way. But tyre swaps would be cold pressed like they are with metal wheels.
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Can you borrow an I-beam as long as the chassis and repeat the process above but anchored at the ends and pushing in the middle, probably with a relatively flexible wooden spreader? (Or, turn the chassis upside down on the floor and use concrete anchors as the fixed points)
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It looks a bit odd for a crack. It looks like a casting flaw, but a decidedly odd one. Maybe build a clay dam round it and see if a pool of <liquid of your choice that won't interfere with painting> drains away?
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https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-50670743 (Definitely a WW1 find and discovery, definitely military, arguably a vehicle)
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Thanks, seems likely. I am getting a couple of nibbles.
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Does anyone know where all or both the Austin / Morris LD van fans hang out? Going through my dad's barn full of stuff I have found an Austin LD engine + gearbox. And throwing it in the scrap metal skip seems wrong.
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What the UK calls a "Monkey Wrench" the Germans call an Engländer. (And one features on their road signs for a mechanic https://images.app.goo.gl/Emb1sbXe4MUzMxXw6 ).
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Nice work with the brazing. I wonder if MIG brazing would work for that sort of application? (It wouldn't be better, but not everyone has access to Acetylene, and the access is reducing steadily) I would be tempted to skim the sealing face flat on the lathe, it looks easy to hold for that.
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Maybe he should paint the photography table 🙂
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Do you intend to bend your new ones, for authenticity?
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If they were making the parts themselves it might have been as simple as saving faffing about with change gears on the lathes.
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Aye, I know. My Ner-a-Car has one, which is what prompted the question.
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Is that an artfully aged age-related plate? If so, it's well done.
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I think I know who.
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I had a motorcycle with a centrifugal oil cleaner, it looks like your cranks has the same feature, but rather by accident. I suspect that the build-up would never block the oilways, but would only collect in the blind bores under centrifugal force.
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I am surprised you are not suggesting machining from solid with some extreme thread cutting on a Myford :-)
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I have always found Lee Spring to be helpful. They advertise that they make custom springs. I got a wave spring from them, they insisted on sending a sample, and when I pointed out that I would only ever need one, they said that was fine. I assume from what you say that you have tried putting your parameters in their spring finder? https://www.leespring.co.uk/uk_compression_spec.asp?springType=C&subType=H&forWhat=Search You could consider buying oversize and grinding down on a mandrel.
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I would have no qualms putting that back in to service. Not that I am any kind of expert. But, what fraction of the bearing surface is missing? 2%?
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Probably post WW1, but I just saw this on a Youtube video: https://youtu.be/MbIlBZmZ4Xs?t=333
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Cast iron crank-case? I was surprised by that, so far I have only seen (or noticed the material of) Aluminium (Dennis, for example) or Bronze (FIAT) crank-cases of that period.
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It seems likely that it could be made, though one might expect it to decompose again (200C, again according to Wikipedia) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosgene And that would lead to the emission of CO and Cl, neither of which are particularly good for you either. Though all three gasses probably beat being on fire.
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I think it's worse than that, the gas created is Phosgene. Though Wikipedia suggests that the direct toxicity (to the liver) is just as bad, and it's an ozone-depleting gas too.
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All authentic features of a WW1 truck 🙂
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My own opinion (and it is worth exactly what you paid for it) would be that if you have the early pistons then they should be kept precisely because of that. I doubt that oil consumption is a significant expense in the context in which you will be operating the vehicle.
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I think that it is normal for the ring lands to taper a few thou (in steps). The area above the top ring runs a lot hotter than the skirt.
