DFC1943Fl.Lt.

Good call Richard, took the cylinder over. £133. Including seals and ready to fit in 7-10 days time. Just got to get the wheel cyl. Off and take them over now.

Well I picked up my master cylinder today and WOW, looks like new. Just over £160. inc. VAT ready to fit, result.

Sorry for this but I don't know why this keeps happening, photo's turning sideways, but it's very annoying.

Steve if you don't have a circuit diagram it is on page 69 of this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y7yr2jjujgxuldo/ALL%20CHARGED%20UP%204%20ver4-2.1.pdf?dl=0

 

With the leads disconnected, to test the continuity of each circuit breaker with an ohmmeter it should read zero ohms on:

 

30A between AUX+ and B+

 

10A between R and INS

 

If they are not making contact at all, either coil winding would have a resistance of 165-191 ohms. If it is less than that there may be some high resistance crud on the contacts.

Cheers for that Clive, a very informative file. I shall test the D.B. when it looks dry enough. Will let you know how I get on. Just got the MVT guy to come and verify the ferret so should have my reg. number soon. Just want to get in and take it for a spin.

Steve those connectors are rated at 30A I'm not aware of any alternative bullet connector in the civilian market that can fit. Incidentally the smaller ones were originally rated at 10A but increased to 12A, certain types of commercial bullet connectors can fit, but the real thing is not that rare.

 

The distribution box has no fuses, they are circuit breakers that require some sustained overload before they trip. Although when they do trip they do not break the circuit completely as there will be a residual voltage due to the winding still being in circuit. So a tripped or failed breaker may exhibit full voltage on a multimeter but due to the resistance the winding this will drop to very little once some current is drawn by a load.

 

It is sometime since I have taken one apart. The most likely cause for failure is if moisture has got in & caused corrosion, but if it looks clean & doesn't smell charred. I would leave alone for now rather than make work for yourself. I have resistance readings if you want to test it before embarking on a dismantling exercise.

Thanks Clive your knowledge is very valuable and yes I think it may be a better idea to check out the resistance first. Some readings would be a great help. I think there is some moisture in side but can not see the breakers to see they have any corrosion to them. I will maybe get a hair dryer on the box and leave it open for while.

Cheers Steve.

Thanks Clive, is there another way of joining them which would ensure a good connection?

While on the subject of the distribution box, is it easy to strip down to see if the fuses are ok. I have removed it from the hull and taken off the back plate but can not see any fuse. Do I have to dismantle the power cables from the bottom and remove the internals to get to the front of the workings.

Very rare sometimes Colin at BB Engineering has them

Thanks Clive, is there another way of joining them which would ensure a good connection?

Hi all ferret owners. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where I can get hold of the large cable connectors that join the 'POS. & NEG.' Cable's which comes from the top of the distribution box to the generator box. I've got loads of the smaller ones but can't find these larger ones.

Cheers Steve.

Unscrew the knob type cover of the Distribution Box No.1 Mk 1

Thanks Jim, 'leaning all the time'. What is the other 3 pin socket for, the red/terracotta rubber one bolted under the top front plate L/H side near the toggle support for the cover support bar.

Just had the answer to my question pop up on my screen. Many thanks chaps.

Hi all, can anyone tell me where the socket is for the 2 pinned small caged inspection lamp in a Mk1. ferret please. I first thought it was the small red rubber capped socket which, in mine, is located above your left shoulder in front of the toggle bracket which supports the cover support bar. But this is a 3 pined socket, what is this for?

Thanks Steve.

Good call Richard, took the cylinder over. £133. Including seals and ready to fit in 7-10 days time. Just got to get the wheel cyl. Off and take them over now.

Managed to get the wheels and drums off today and found that the wheel cylinders are totally free and still full of fluid. The cylinders actually look quite new and all the adjusters are moving freely. With any luck it was just the master cyl. which was kaput.

Steve,

Take the cylinder to Past Parts at Bury St. Edmunds, they make a superb job of reconditioning them and price is probably not far off a NOS one.

Good call Richard, took the cylinder over. £133. Including seals and ready to fit in 7-10 days time. Just got to get the wheel cyl. Off and take them over now.

Thanks chaps sounds like the best option.

Steve,

Take the cylinder to Past Parts at Bury St. Edmunds, they make a superb job of reconditioning them and price is probably not far off a NOS one.

Nice one Richard, just down the road from me in Newmarket. May see if it would be worth taking all my wheel cylinders as well, just a thought.

Cheers Steve.

While on this subject of brakes can anyone tell me where I may source a master cylinder for a Mk1 ferret. Would it be Mr Bannister or is there some where else I can try. Has anyone got one going spare. Got mine off at the week end and it is frozen solid. No point in trying to free off the piston as looking at it the bore is most likely far to pitted and would hate to get a kit, put it in only to find it leaking in a couple of months time. Any idea as to a price as well.

Cheers Steve.

Thanks, just ordered a small tin of matt NATO green so will see how it turns out

Just a thought but most likely the colour has faded so if you purchase, say NATO green from some one like Marcus Glen you will be paying a lot more than the paint I paid for, 5Lts for £25 but more than likely will not match. I took mine along to the bloke I use and he matched it up perfectly. So didn't have to end up painting the whole Landy. Just touched in where needed. Trouble is if it has faded then what ever you buy is going to show when you apply the new paint next to the old.

Hi, looks to be the same as mine that I've just sold and that was just the military matt Nato Green. I actually got mine made up from a mate who runs his own paint shop and it came out a perfect match.

Steve.

I had the same problem with mine, ended up just taking the head off. Head gasket is cheap enough. I had 2 valves stuck closed so just overhauled the head with rebeding all the valves. The bores were fine but full of old diesel and penetrating fluid. So glad I did remove the head. It ended up being g quicker plus it gives you a chance to have a look at the state of the head and at least the inlet valves.

Regards Steve.

Hi there from across the pond. Its looking good, is that going to be the finished colour.

Gents,

 

Thanks, yes I might have a go at repairing it myself, I suppose I could make the strips where needed....

Go for it, be nice to see some before and after pics.

All the best Steve.

Looking good. Nice go know some people care.

Hi, what sort of damage is it. I have 3 different types of camo net. My most prized is the desert sand one. It's had a couple of field repairs which are nothing special but adds to its character. What I'm getting at is that maybe you can have a go at the repair yourself, can be very rewarding.

Regards Steve.

On sale on eBay, Ferret bins. Can't load the link but they are in 'Military Vehical Parts' section.

Hi all me again, have come to a hault with regards to starting my ferret. It's to do with the electrics and am I need of assistance. I will be more than willing to pay someone who lives near me in Newmarket to spend a couple of hours putting me on the right track. I am pretty sure it would not take someone long who knows what they are doing to sort it out. Hoping there is someone who can be of help.

Regards Steve.

Agree with Clive, think ahead. If you do use anything which leaves an oily residue, then if you wish to touch up any areas you will have problems unless you completely remove any sign of what ever coating you apply.

Hello all, can someone enlighten me as to what adhesive would be best to use for fixing the rubber seals around the escape & viewing hatches please. I have been sifting through a box that came with my ferret and found quite a few of these 'D' shaped rubber strips still in their packaging which is the same dimension as the lip on the body of the vehicle where the hatches are. I wouldn't normally worry but have noticed that there is water coming in at these points when it rains hard. I have cleaned all the old paint and rust off of these surface's ready, but just need guidance at to what adhesive to use so they stay on the surface. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Many thanks Steve.

There are quite thick flat ones around sold as covers for smokies but I believe they are actually covers for the ends of torsion bars on Stalwarts?

Where would be the best place to source these Clive and will they fit over the tubes securely with out falling off when driving over bumpy roads.