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DFC1943Fl.Lt.

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Posts posted by DFC1943Fl.Lt.

  1. Dear Steve,

     

    maybe there was an interaction between my meds and too much Christmas cheer, thanks for taking my rant so well and not sending a mini nuke my way

     

    Robin

     

    Hi Robin, hope you saw in the new year with family and enjoyed yourself. No problem with your so called rant, sometimes it's good to get stuff off your chest when you don't agree with something. I agree with you the way some totally strip their Vehicle of it's history and try to make something straight off the showroom floor. With my ferret, the only thing I intend to do is just get the thing up and running, as making sure road safe, and give it a new coat of paint to bring it back to the old DBG. As for the inside, I like to think that it is as it was when it came out of service. I shall have to repair the drivers seat but as for all the rest i.e. internal bins, dash etc that will be left as it came to me 'service used'. While I like seeing some of the restorations on the forum, doing the complete strip down and paint job is not my cup of tea.

    All the best Steve.

  2. Is that ' New Years resolutions' or should it be ' Don't forget to keep up with those New Years Restorations!'

     

    Happy New year to you all, I promise more input on the Morris PU restoration this year!

     

    Jules

     

    Ha Ha like that Jules and very true. Have a good un.

  3. Hi Richard and thanks for your reply. Makes sense and as for the servo, it came with the ferret from Vince on the forum 'Aka' grasshopper. Just that he did say it may pay to put it on as it's there. But being an old school mechanic brought up on plugs and points in vehicles I did think it may be a bit of a job. As said it has been up armoured so weight has increased but if this is not an issue with the exiting brake set up then all's well. Just me being on the causes side, been a while since I last drove one, must be well over 30 years now when in the Royal Signals TA based at B.S.E.

    Regards Steve.

  4. I tend to agree with Diana and Jackie, what is so lacking in your vehicle as manufactured?

     

    I don't like altering things for the sake of altering them.

     

    Honestly developing a higher standard of driving and you will brake less because you are anticipating other peoples actions better. Spare yourself the time wasting of spinning spanners for nothing and leave the machine well alone.

     

    Has there been a rash of Ferret accidents because of poor brakes?

     

    Where will this stop? Will you be wearing a full face crash helmet and fitting inertia reel seat belts next?

     

    I am troubled very deeply where that kind of thinking takes people and we see only too often in various classifieds "original @#$^& for sale, fitted with upgraded engine, brakes, new hard top and rock sliders" and now they wonder why people don't buy it, because it isnt original!

     

    Your vehicle will loose value in my books the more you muck it about in a way that can not be put back to original.

     

    Now that I have had my rant and said what I feel I can honestly say I bear you no malice or ill fate, just sharing my opinion, in my usual blunt way.

     

    Robin

     

    Well I must say its a good job I don't get offended easily LoL. While I agree with your argument, I am thinking more of the safety issue as there is no need for an MOT and it is down to the owner/driver to make sure the vehicle is up to a safe standard for the road, granted, you should drive sensibly but there are the lunatics around who have no regards for other road users and from personal experience having to brake hard to avoid an accident helps with bloody good brakes. Now driving a 3ton ferret is a bit different from a 1 to 1.1/2 car. The fact that these were built for rough terrain mainly and not road use and also back then there weren't the volume of traffic around to contend with. Also the latter versions have disc brakes and servo so they must have had a rethink with regards to the braking capability of these ferrets. As for the value aspect, that does not really worry me because I bought the ferret because I wanted one and not to invest money in it. If when I decide to sell it has made money that will be a bonus. Having said all this, I agree with Diana that when I overhaul the braking system and see how it brakes, if in my opinion I feel safe enough I will leave well alone, if not the servo will be fitted.

    Thanks for your reply

    Kind regards Steve.

  5. If the braking system is 100% then it may not be worth the bother.

     

    100% = shoes all good, cylinders working properly, brake fluid has been changed in last 3 years, all drums are unscored and flexible hoses are in good condition, the master cylinder seals are good and the brakes are properly adjusted.

     

    My own Ferret will stop dead and has no servo.

     

    Diana

     

    Thanks for the info Diana, Will defo make sure all is up to scratch with regards to the brakes. I got to make a list up for Mr Banister to sort. Have to get it on the road for the beginning of April as a pretty eccentric old lady who want's to have a ride in it down our local high street waving a union jack. Should turn quite a few heads if it comes off. lol.

    Regards Steve.

  6. Hi all, hope everyone had a great Xmas. My question is how easy/simple would it be to install a brake servo into my Mk2/5 ferret. I have looked in to it and seems possible but not sure as to the right way to go about it. I have a bit of room at the rear L/H side of the oil cooler to try and fix a mounting bracket, but then the master cylinder is in the front foot well. Will this mean having to get a brake pipe from the servo to the master cylinder and also replacing the inlet manifold for the servo to connect to. Is it worth all the hassle. I know trying to stop 3tons at speed would take a strong right leg on the exiting brake set up, but I don't think I shall be pushing the old girl to that extreme when up and running. Just that I have a servo that came with the ferret.

    Many thanks in advance

    Steve.

    P.S. Hope to see some of the Suffolk members at Adrian Barrell's this Saturday at 2pm. Thank you Adrian for the invite.

  7. Just seen this thread, I'm up for it if the offer still stands. I'm a little way's off up in Newmarket Suffolk. Will take me about an hour, still want the biscuits? sounds like there is going to be a glut of them. lol

    Regards Steve.

    P.S. Forgot to ask for your postal address for the old satnav.

  8. Hi Ron, I've been watching the progress of your restoration of this bike and all I can say is that it is amazing. You must be so very pleased with the progress you have made. Can't wait to see a picture of it with you sitting astride it when finished.

    Please keep the photo's coming.

    All the best Steve.

  9. My problem too, have got all the bins but spare wheel side rear is shot to hell at the bottom. Will be having a go at making one up with a little help from a friend. If all goes well and relatively easy, we may make a whole set. My friend is a wizard with steel and other materials he has told me that for him it would be a fairly simple task. Will let you know how we get on and some picture. Good luck. Steve.

  10. Hi to all at this festive time. My question is that I have replaced the engine in my ferret and started to replace all the other parts but have noticed that there is a small bore pipe from the front of the block to the gen/alter. Am thinking this to be a lubrication pipe. Is this correct ?, problem is the end connecting to the block has snapped on the shoulder of the nut. Is there anywhere I can purchase one of these ? I know this is the place to ask. Many thanks Steve.

  11. So my Ferret came with 2 bins of wires all mixed together and now I have the daunting task of sorting out what plugs in and where. Since this is a huge task I am trying to start simple.

     

    Does anyone have a logical diagram of the wiring from the batteries, to the master switch? I also need the wiring diragram for the distribution box. I have the pigtail that goes from the generator box to the distribution box but I cant read any of the marking on any of the wires.

     

    My goal is to just get enough installed and working so I have a functional master switch, proper connections to the generator box and proper outputs from the distribution box. The gauage and switch panels will be worried about if I get through this :)

     

    TJ

     

    Hi there, my problem too. Although my harness is still in the vehicle, it has all been disconnected and most of the yellow sleeving on the cables has lost the writing so although I may be able to sort out where most connect up to the starter switch and instrument panel, as for where they end up is a night mere. Will most likely have to put a test meter on every cable to trace the ends.

    Good luck with yours. Steve.

  12. Hi, what other sort of markings are you thinking of. Other than corp. or sgt. strips or officers shoulder pips, the only other insignia that may be on the sleeve might be a regt. flash but that would depend on the regt. Of course you may also have medal ribbons. Can't think of anything else that would be on the tunic. Maybe someone will be along and offer other advise. Good luck. Steve.

  13. Glad to hear you got it freed off Steve, I suppose you'll be wanting the radiator cowling at some point... I think with the engine out, it would make it easier to install the brake servo and associated brake lines. I don't see it would be any more difficult to temporarily rig some wiring to "bench test" a B60 than it is a J60 from a CVRT.

     

    If you are taking the engine out, you may also want to consider renewing the fluid flywheel seals while you can get to them.

     

     

    Vince

     

    Hi Vince, hope you and the family are ok. Yes it is a relief to know there wasn't much wrong with the engine. Will take your advice on anything that may need doing while the engine is out, would be insane to not renew parts while it's out. Yes, will be looking at getting things sorted over the next few weeks. Just want to get the thing done, started and driven. I have decided not to go all out and do a complete nuts and bolts job with spaying every part as it will only get dirty when out and about, don't want to ruin that 'Been there' look. One thing I was wanting to know is where I can get hold of the forehead foam like pads on the hatches. Managed to get hold of another canvas cover for £120. and has the No. of 33BA64 which is not far off mine of 33BA93 which I found amazing. As for the fan and cowling, may be we could meet up half way. Nice to hear from you again and how's that ferret of yours coming along?

  14. I thank you all for your input on this matter. I was just thinking of splitting the engine from the gearbox, securing somehow and hooking up water butt for cooling. Make sure the oil will circulate, jerry can of fuel and just jumping across the starter from a 24v set up. Not that easy then. Wasn't thinking of it being hooked up to the wiring in the vehicle.

  15. The problem is that the Ferret doesn't have a "Pack" per se; rather a series of components bolted into a hull and connected together. In order to run it, you will pretty much have to take all the various bits out of the vehicle and then assemble them together outside of it. As Bob has pointed out, the oil system will be a significant issue.

     

    Depending on your requirements, you might be best off taking it to an engine dyno; aside from the oil system, they will have everything needed to test and evaluate the engine in controlled conditions and won't be too expensive.

     

    Cheers,

    Terry

    Hi Terry, see your point, will just try it when its back in place. Just thought if there were any issues with it, it would have been easier to have sorted it with the lump out for ease of access.

    Cheers Steve.

  16. When you removed the head, did the engine then turn over freely?

     

    Malcolm

    Hi Malcolm, yes once I freed off the 2 sticking exhaust valves it turned very easily. Now the head is back on, it still turns freely. Will most likely just remove the engine, see what else has been dropped over the years give it a good clean up and most probably replace the brake lines. Then get it back in and proceed from there.

     

    Cheers Steve.

  17. Have been thinking of taking the power pack out of my Mk1 ferret since the engine was seized due to non use. Got the thing turning over a half rev then stuck solid. Removed the head to find 2 exhaust valves were stuck closed. Freed them off, took the inlet valves out and reground them in. Put the head back on and proceeded to torque up the head nuts only to drop one never to be seen again. Now I know I could just get hold of another nut, but this has made my mind up to remove the pack. My question is, I'm thinking once the power pack is out what would be the safest way to fire up the engine with it on the ground. I know a large water container to place the coolant hoses in, jerry can of fuel. But with regards to electrics for turning over the pack to start and the stability of the engine. Would it need to be strapped to a pallet or something. (Should I put the exhaust on or just scare the hell out of the neighbours :)

  18. Here's a couple showing the return spring setup:

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]108725[/ATTACH]

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]108726[/ATTACH]

     

    You can see on the second photo that there is only a puny 1/16" split pin stopping the clevis pin from pulling out. I have had a scare on two Ferrets where the bushings in the clevis were worn because of the strong spring force and the pin was slightly cocked. So now the spring force on the pin is trying to pull it out of the clevis. In both cases, the split pin was just about worn through. Next step is the clevis pin pulls out and then the pedal falls to the floor.

     

    I drilled the clevis pin hole for a heavier split pin and added a tight-fitting washer (which there probably was originally) between the split pin and the clevis.

     

    This photo shows the adjustable brake pedal stop bolted to the front of the bevel box. (Excuse the mess, this Ferret needs the master cylinder reconditioned.)

     

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]108727[/ATTACH]

     

     

     

    Malcolm

     

    Great pictures, Think I will check on my spring attachment just to make sure all is 'A OK'.

  19. Finally (and I promise not to post anymore photographs after this), by the time we got back to the beach my ride (and all my kit) had gone back to Cobbaton in the Dodge. I then hindered Tim in his loading of the Sexton for which he kindly gave me a lift back to Cobbaton in his ex Fury GMC (which I understand is up for sale).

    IMG_8579_zpsx6igby6g.jpg

    Smiles and waves all the way back to Cobbaton. If you have never been to that museum I would highly recommend it.

    Tim is currently restoring their Sherman which was in Fury. it is the one which blew up throwing the turret up in the air. It was recovered from a range and there is great deal to do to return it to running condition:

    IMG_8574_zps1apuoozt.jpg

     

    IMG_8575_zps8radn3gj.jpg

    IMG_8576_zpsvinkyav2.jpg

     

    Many thanks to Preston, Tim, the Devon MVT, First Wave 44 and the Friends of Braunton Burrows for arranging such a superb event. It sets the bar for the rest of the year.

     

    We stayed at the farm house opposite the Cobbaton Combat Museum and it was an arrangement the owner that anyone staying there was allowed free entry into the museum. What a holiday, spent most of the week in there. Every time I would walk around and still see things I'd missed the day before. I would defo. recommend a visit there if you are anywhere near, just follow the little brown tank sign's from Chittlehampton. Tim was very helpful. Not sure if this arrangement is still open.

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