ruxy

Dominic at LR Series should be able to sell you the correct period built up unit , that is if he has the correct Antenna Base(s) in stock ?

Yes - he sells the TUAAM unit (guts) loose good tested used but I have purchased new off him. BUT that antenna base is WRONG for a LWT ,, IMHO

Sellers now with TUAAM strip down and sell bits individually to maximise £ profit. A good bare box on Ebay is abt. £50 (some boxes have stripped mounting bolt threads - avoid) , used but good actual TUAAM ab't £30 / new = £50 , BALUN ring - used / sometimes new , range £12 to £20. Even the later (Defender era) Base antenna mount (a few Mk. but I would avoid) - identified by a more serviceable black multi-wingnut. . The correct base antenna mounts , there are three versions that differ slightly , ID can be difficult with one Mk. because they grind the earlier Mk. No. off the rubber - they all have a antique looking collet mechanism that is easy to damage , avoid any with damaged parts because the screw , knurled nut & clamp parts are expensive & not often sold complete (good complete - min. £20). Until abt. 5 years ago a complete TUAAM assy. was quite readily available. A alternative was to obtain a Defender kit , that could be used complete (the co-axial was same for LWT) + you would have a few bits to sell on as not required , however the Antenna Base would be rivet counting wrong as the aerial section collet had the BIG black wingnut irrespective of MK.

Those wing top cable stowage boxes are for a LWT converted for Clansman - so you need TUAAM boxes (automatic tuning) , these would be fitted from late 1970's , originally you would use ATU boxes - thes are open at rear for manual tuning . ATU are less common now , TUAAM are not so easy to obtain , then you need a BALUN ring on top of the box (balance/unbalance). then on top of the ring - you need a Base antenna mount. All the Clansman have drifted up in £ these last few years. For rivet - counting it's important to use the correct antenna base. LATE Clansman spcific LWT have different wings incorporating a stowage box on underside with a spade shaped lid on top (secured with two quick release clips of U.S.A. manuf. these and the recepticals mounted to the box can be quite £ expensive. Probably the original ATU co-axials & stowage mounts on the inner of the wings have been removed. You could have a pair of addl. stowage boxes in the tub mounted to transom.

You may not have 'employed persons' involved , you may be DIY in total - however - if a risk assessment is completed / & work in accordance with LOLER Regs. - then there should be no injuries , normally a excavator used for craning is fitted with rupture valves ! Normally for best effect such as a bomb is best suspended from a gibbet , anything less is a bit naff.

Ask at the National Museum of Aviation - located at East Fortune Airfield , North Berwick - they may just have a complete sample of this bomb & blueprint / able to get you the tailfin drawings ?

I served a 6 year apprenticeship as a fitter & turner - it's just 2nd year (ord.) City & Guilds /EITB craft level. Search out the local tool-rooms etc. The root may be flat or with radius - hardly matters , the crest could have radius that needs a chase , they should have a selection of internal threading tools with known angles. You hardly need a check-nut - but if you are prissy and prepared to pay additional £. Your local Technical College or EITB training place should be able to sort you out - possibly gratis ? Modern lathes have a Norton 'quick-change' gearbox , no need to work out the gearing ratio LoL

2mm pitch is what is to be expected on M14 (course) , so quite fine on 36mm. 1000 kg is no big deal on a spl. eyebolt . Your best bet is to take what info. you have & a chunk of 40mm leadloy abt. 200mm long and give it to a centre-lathe turner to screwcut (obviosly it would be best to get the bomb to him for sizing). 1 tonne mass on 36mm requires no fancy grade of steel , a oversize bolt of lowest grade would suffice. Tommy-bar hole drilled suitable size to accept a lifting shackle.

You can get pour plastic stuff - similar to RTV , specially made to cast in unknown threads - unscrew / pull it out then get to work with micrometer /ruler/pitch gauges.

Hi, "Kerbside Bob" - your RL must have a interesting back-story ?

Hi & welcome - from a fellow LWT owner.

The lamps look very Germanic - are they a modern NOTEK blackout ?

No LHD & RHD options for bonnet - it's AC/DC . There was a LHD & a RHD option for the bulkhead , the only difference I have detected is the location of a pair of RivNuts for mounting the fire extinguisher bracket , bit daft for spares stock control.

Rear door springs were manufactured by Morris Springs Ltd. Rationalized to use same spring ? I surmise they used the same spring-maker . Worth contacting Morris - they probably keep a archive of orders / able to identify from. photographs.http://www.morrissprings.co.uk/