roajeep

Thanks guys for your interesting replies. I have a pair of Danish boots with no studs and they can be OK to use with my BD as they very similar to the British WW2 boots. Best to be safe when jeeping in Normandy. Don't want to slip the clutch and run over a Gendarme.

Hi, Would the crews in tanks, tank destroyers, and similar have used the standard issue hobnail boots ? I get the impression that in the field clothing was pretty relaxed and I assume that hobnails on steel floors surrounded by ammunition, fuel, oil, etc could have been possibly dangerous from sparks or sliding on the internal or external surfaces. Thanks.

Had a closer look at the data plate and can just make out BROCKH so presumably Brockhouse of West Bromwich.

Hi again, Here are a few more photos. There is still the original T sign on the rear. The frame at the front has the name Villiers Ltd or Villers Ltd etched on with a welding torch or similar. And the drawbar does still have the original dateplate. It is worn and not easy to read but I can see a number "TP 42628" and underneath "2 T. Gen". This trainer is located about 50km north of Oslo at a construction company aad is for sale. Approx GBP 1000 as is / where is. I know the seller. It is moveable but for transport would need a lowloader. If anyone in the UK (or elsewhere) is interested then drop me a line. Thanks.

Hi, A friend has this trailer and I am hoping someone can identify it and tell a bit more about this type. It does look so very British. Thanks.

Thanks, REME245. As far as I can see the glass is in two thin layers with a plastic yellow layer in between. After loosening the central leather and the hinge I'll give them a careful push and see what happens. I cannot see that the glass is glued in so I guess it is only held in place by the pressure of the leather. Will definitely go for perspex as replacement as this cannot crack or smash. Hey Ho, amazing what daft things we do to fill the time.

Hi, I just bought these and the glasses need to be replaced. Any suggestions on companies that do this ? Hope can be done without ruining the metal frames and the stitching as leather is in good condition. Thanks.

Some postings back was a photo of traffic waiting in a street and there was speculation about the type of trailer. From looking at the simple and high mudguards and the fat tyres I go for the 20-cwt 1-ton GS Trailer.

Hi and thanks to everyone for replying. I have several of the larger floodlamps (Butler) but after looking at the pics I realise that I also actually do seem to have a couple of the Lucas floodlamps. That is I have 2 of the lamp bases with brackets and bulb fittings (which I need), and 2 of the longer tubes with a sort of baffle halfway down and a smaller hole in the middle (2 of which I do not need). Here it is. So if anyone wants one of these and can do a swap for the shorter tube with the red plastic to act as a normal rearlight then please contact me. Or if anyone wants a Butler and can do a swap for a complete Lucas rearlight then pls contact me.

Hi, Does anyone know of a source for the rear lights used on the AB trailer. If I am correct they were : Tail Lamp Lucas Type T1A and Axle Flood Lamp Lucas Type AF1 I might find some at W+P in July, but thought you guys wld know of any dealers or trailer geeks with a surplus. Thanks David H Oslo

Russell, Thanks for your PM to which I have replied. Hope you received it OK as I forgot to file a copy in my Sent folder this end. DavidH

Hi Topdog, Must admit have never seen one of these before but I think might be a bit small for our needs. Still it looks to be a fun machine to have. Thanks for the tip. DavidH

Hi, For use on an historic airfield I am investigating how and where to obtain a WW2 DB Tractor. Does not have to be a jewel, can be tatty and worn, but the engine and mechanics must be OK. All tips, leads, and advice, gratefully received. Thanks. DavidH Oslo Norway.

Anyone interested in an Albion WDHD from 1954 ? Found not far from Oslo. Probably the only one over here. Was all-over yellow so we guess used on airfield. Been standing for long time but amazingly started first time (a nice throaty sound at the moment) and it is driveable to some extent. Had it on show at recent MV event here and several took test runs round the ground. Original chassis and date plates in cab. Original engine. It is a restoration project but absolutely a good starting point. I took some flyers with info to W+P last month so some of you might already have seen it. If anyone interested drop me a line to davidh52@online.no . And pls pass this info on to anyone else you think might be interested.

Thanks to everyone for the clarification. I've seen both, but ordered the stencil now from Axholme as it is quite difficult to make one myself with the good old stick-backed plastic. Axholme's is as you all say jumping off to the right.

hi, what is the correct marking ? some jeeps have pegasus looking in to the centre, and some have pegasus looking out to the side of the vehicle. i am just finishing an AB trailer and I do not want to mark incorrectly and suffer at the hands of so-called friends. thanks. David

Hi, I'm doing a complete strip down on my Airborne trailer Nr 1 Mk II. The backing plate to the brakes is held in place by nuts and bolts but it cannot be slid off the end of the axle due to a flange or ring on the outer side. According to the parts list these are held in place by a key. Can I just use a puller to ease them off the end of the axle or do I risk causing damage ? Would it be wiser to leave the flanges in place and just sand the backing plates where they are mounted. Advice appreciated. Thanks. DavidH

Don't forget Badges and Equipment at the bottom of The Strand. Suppose they're long gone as well. I guess all these old favourites died out and now it's just the dealers who have stalls at shows like W+P and at a completely different price level. DavidH

Does anyone recognise this and where/what it could come from ? Thanks. DavidH

Have a late-WW2 Nr 2 lightweight for sale. Has had a frame up restoration. Only 2000 produced so it is fairly rare. Have the original dataplate showing frame nr and WD X-vvvvvv nr. This is the type that is longer than the more common Airborne nr 1 and has the profiles on the outside of the body. Located Norway but I'm willing arrange freight to UK if we can agree on a price. Drop me a mail and I'll send details (was also advertised in MVT's Green Sheet a few months ago). Also subject to export licence due to age so now hit by some EU regulations on works of art and antiques. Might be willing to do a swap for an early 10-cwt GS trailer (the type with the wooden sides and the drop down tailgate) in decent but not necessarily perfect condition. Hope to hear from you. David

Hi, Anyone have the PAWL, release, handbrake lever, for sale ? It's the handle that is attached to the front of the handbrake lever and that locks into the ratchet plate on the frame. I also need the little flipover lever that goes on the top of the towbox that locks the towing ring when reversing. Hope someone can help or point me in the right direction. Thanks. David

John, Thanks for the Korean War photo. I think this must be the only one in existence. Thought I had seen one of a Nr 2 in service with British in Palestine in late 40's but have trawled the web without success. Something will turn up one day.

I need some pics of the British late-WW2 10-cwt (Airborne) Lightweight Trailer Nr 2 in wartime action. The trailer with the profiles on the outside of the metal body, not the earlier and more well-known Airborne trailer we see in Normandy and Arnhem. If anyone has such photos or links then pls respond. Thanks

Hi guys and thanks for yr replies. My Nr 1 Mk 1 has the hinged handles attached directly to the block. The chassis nr OE5319 comes from the Norwegian MOT certificate which is the only documentation I have at present. I am hoping that the vehicle register here will be able to find the original Norwegian Army papers as these sometimes also show the original British wartime WD X-.... number. (As is the case with my other AB trailer). I have worked a bit more on carefully sanding the rear side of the body and am fairly certain that the correct number is X5277818 or X5277819. If I could only find someone or two with an identifiable chassis number and WD X-number from the same contract and maker then I could work out mathematically which is correct for my trailer. And I'll have a go at sanding the left and right sides in case I can find the number there as well. I have seen trailers with no dataplates but where the chassis number was stamped into the drawbar between the 4 screw holes but this is not so on my trailer. Maybe they were stamped post-war if the original plates were corroded and almost illegible. The hunt continues. Good to have something to do now that winter is closing in.

Nobody who can help or suggest ?