Jump to content

Richard Farrant

Moderators
  • Posts

    11,470
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    45

Posts posted by Richard Farrant

  1. Hi Bob, As far as I am aware, the Q25 was a normal control cab (ie with bonnet) and built from 1940.

    The photo below of a N1 is from an old book called Preserved Lorries and the cab seems to look very similar to the truck on the wagon.

     

    Commer N1.jpg

  2. Bob,

    It looks like a Commer N1, built between about 1933 and 1938, I would suggest it to be an impressed lorry and not of military issue, like many other oddities seen in photos at that time in France.

  3. A common problem was oil and dirt blocking the fins in the outside of the radiator, on the fan side. The radiator is easy to remove and you will the be able to clean it easily. First get a light and look into the fan housing to see if the fins are blocked.

    Another point is that there is no expansion tank for coolant on a Ferret and if you fill to the neck of the filler cap there will be some water pushed out of the overflow pipe once hot until it finds its level.

     

     

  4. Well done Rob! Nice to get appreciation like this for your efforts. I saw your tanker at Woodchurch last year and very impressed. When I first worked on Militants over 40 years ago, I had deep appreciation for them, lovely old wagons and an experience to drive them!.

    Good luck at the AEC Rally ...... you might be lucky there as well

    regards, Richard

     

  5. If the lever was cut off at the bottom to clear the engine flywheel housing (?), then surely the only thing to do is to to increase the movement of the lever in the cab to compensate. To do this it would mean the pawl that engages with the gate would be further forward, so the gate could easily be modified. This all depends on whether there is enough room for the lever to go further forward without touching the engine cover. A much easier solution I would have thought.

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, Mike Maddams said:

    Hi all, sorry for the delay in updating you. So I took her for a short drive and predictably the brakes bound up so I immediately jacked her up and cracked a bleed nipple and all four wheel simultaneously freed up! So I checked the lines (all of which are new) for sharp bends and fluid none. I can’t find any one way valves either. 
    however the master cylinder push rod was set very far in so I undid the locking nut and wound it back out about an inch which seems to have made a big difference. I wonder if the piston wasn’t moving back enough to allow fluid to return as fast as it gets sent down the outlets? I only had a very short window to carry out a test drive so couldn’t really get a true representation but I’ll go for another tomorrow and hopefully she rolls freely. 
    thank you all so much for the advice so far!

    cheers, Mike 

    The pushrod should generally have a small clearance of approx 3mm or so

  7. Having entered this show, every year from when it started in 1982 as an IMPS club display at Tenterden railway station, I feel it had lost its attraction at the last one in 2019 and vowed then, not to do it again. Many fellow members of IMPS and MVT used to go there and it was a good place to catch up, but in the last few shows at Beltring many faces are now missing. We had the best days when Rex was running it, it had good atmosphere in those days.

    I have my thoughts on why this year's launch is so late ...

    • Like 3
  8. As your WOT6 now has a different engine, does it mean that the mounting point of the operating lever in the cab has been changed, as this could have a bearing on your problem. Never had any issues with this on the WOT6 that I worked on as it had original V8 fitted.

  9. To me I would say the bearings have been fitted the wrong way around. Normally any wheel bearing has the cup fitted in the wheel first and cones from the outside, cannot see how they can be adjust going by these photos.

  10. 4 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

    Hi Richard

    quick question, do you remember if the wot6 you worked on had axle breathers ? I can’t find anything obvious on mine.

    Seamus

    Sorry, you have got me there, I cannot remember now, must have been about 15 years ago. I don't have a manual either.

    Richard

    • Like 1
  11. 3 hours ago, 67burwood said:

    I spoke to autosparks a while ago but they were unable to help as I don’t have the original loom to use as a pattern. 

    On the WOT6 that I was involved in restoring, I rewired it myself and it is quite a simple system. When you put the wiring to the rear of the vehicle, just use trailer cable and that will suit all your needs. The instrument panel is dead easy to access.

    regards, Richard

    • Like 1
  12. 9 hours ago, Ganmain Tony said:

    Thanks very much fella's. Missed you at Corowa this year Richard, hopefully things get back to a situation you're able to travel. Hope you're keeping well.

    Below is the "Taking longer than I thought it would project" as well.

     

    Hi Tony,

    I was very sorry to have missed this year's Swim-In as I had attended all the previous 10 events, and 4 more back in the late 90's. Circumstances being what they are I thought it wise not to travel as I have escaped the wretched virus up to now.

    Nice set of boots on your new project 👍

    best regards, Richard

    • Like 1
  13. You are correct in that the trailer appears to be from the WW2 period as the X census number comes up in the Chilwell list date Nov. 1944. That being said, I recall the trailers and generators which I worked on had post 1950 registrations numbers.  Also think the air cooled engine was 1950's as well. Thanks for posting the numbers up as it clarifies the period of manufacture.

×
×
  • Create New...