Danny P

A friend told me that (late) bedford MW's, and maybe all (late) war time british vehicles, didn't leave the UK during WWII with a mickey mouse camouflage pattern and never had this camouflage pattern. Only vehicles which stayed in the UK during WWII had a Mickey mouse camouflage pattern. What is true about this since I was planning to apply a Mickey mouse camouflage pattern on my bedford MW assuming this is correct for the European theatre during WWII. Thanks, Danny

Wanted, two (L+R) body side clips for my bedford MWD drop down body as presented in the below pictures. Thanks, Danny

Top tubes fitted to the hoops on these early bedfords, captured by germans in Dunkirk? Who can tell? But I have to admit that I also found some pictures without top tubes. Cheers, Danny

Jeremy, The tubes are kept right up by some horizontal tubes at the top which also prevent the canvas from hanging down to some extent. You probably know about this also but I think you should add them before the shrinkage so that tubes could function as a mould to fit the canvas properly and you do not have to strain afterwards? Danny

Thank you all. I think this makes sense. Most probably self tapping screws were used for the footman loops but were not listed in the catalogue as an insignificant item. Lashing hooks 4 at each side of truck plus 2 at front board and 2 at tail board is 12 total. Cleat hooks 2 at front board and 2 at tail board is 4 total. In total 32 screws needed for 16 hooks. The rest speaks for itself according to the catalogue. Thanks, Danny

Looking great Jeremy! I assume you have welded the angle irons on the inside of the uprights of each hoop at a later stage? They are at a fixed distance and rest on the top of the side boards and so the height of the tilt is determined? Danny

Gathered some information about the footman loops, lashing and cleat hooks on the GS body of a Bedford MWD. I wonder how they are fitted and therefore I would like to present the below picture as a starting point. From left to right: cleat hook, lashing hook, footman loop The choice of fasteners in the above picture is based on the information in the “Bedford authorised service parts” catalogue as presented within the red box in the list below. However, the fasteners for the footman loops are not listed anywhere in the catalogue but it is my own interpretation of which I would like to know if this is correct? I am not sure whether screws, flat washers (large or small), possibly lock washers and nuts are used or only wood screws are used (not presented) to fix the footman loops? For the cleat and lashing hooks I wonder if the outer diameters of the flat washers are correct? (small flat washer is about 1/2 inch and large flat washer is about 1 inch). The concept no.10 LARGE flat washer for the cleat hook makes me doubt as this must be a SMALLER flat washer than the flat washer used for the lashing hook. On the other hand, regarding the pictures below, the outer dimensions of both flat washers must be correct, at least for the tail board. I assume the lashing hooks on the side boards will have the same large flat washers (1 inch outer diameter)? Furthermore, I assume lock washers are used with the cleat hook as the end of the rope is strongly tightened and no lock washers are used with the lashing hook as a (loose) loop of the rope is around the hook? Because of this I would think lock washers might also be used with the footman loops for tightening the canvas belt, at least when no wood screws are used? I also searched for some pictures on the internet and HMVF-forum as presented below. Typical for the footman loop on the front board is that a short woodscrew must have been used in order not to hit the angle iron at the inside corner of the body or a hole must have been drilled through this angle iron to fix the footman loop with screw and nut? Hope someone can help me with the correct setup for the cleat and lashing hooks and especially the footman loops. Thanks, Danny

Still working on the project and made some progress on cab and rear body. Many picture to upload but due to always a lack of time for now some pictures of only the cab. Danny

Yes, the plow bolts are mentioned in the Bedford authorised service parts book and are listed as bolt, csk, hd. coach, 1/4"-20 x 1 1/2", hoopstick guide plate, qty. 12.

Andrew, that's a great creative idea! Thanks, Danny

I am curious who can show me a picture of the original bolt applied. The round head carriage bolt must be correct, together with the washer behind it. If we look at the different bolts listed in the bedford authorised service parts book as behind the red line shown in the below picture we can see the 1/4-20 countersunk head coach bolts (flat head) for the hoopstick guide plates (6 plates and 12 bolts total) and the 1/4-20 round head coach bolts for the hoopstick sockets (as required plus 2). But yes, it is strange that a round head carriage bolt was used whereas countersunk were available too and more useful ????????????????? I not sure what to do at the moment.

Kevin and Richard, I agree. This would be the only way but there is some doubt until you may see it on someones picture. Maybe I can find some pictures on the web showing the longer bolt end at the outside? Pictures are still welcome to confirm. In the below picture you can see the gap how it is with the head of the bolt in between. Thank you, Danny

Hi Ian, I can't see any differences in your pictures. The head of the carriage bolt in the red circle will hit the side of the angle iron when closing the side boards from dropped down position to closed position. I can't see the head of the bolt in your picture at closed position because it is behind the angle iron, exact at the same position as my bolt would be when sliding the drop down board forward. The only thing I can imagine is that either the carriage bolt is wrong and should be a flat head bolt like the bolts for the hoopstick guide plate which is at the top of my second picture, but this is not what is listed in the service parts book, or the carriage bolt is quite tightened so that the head is largely in the wood. Would it be possible to add a picture from the dropped down position of the side board so I can see the head of that bolt. Another useful picture would be from the front of the body so I can see if there is a gap between the inner side of the drop down board and side of the front board. Thanks, Danny

I have finished the drop down side boards from my bedford MW and have replaced them on the GS body for bolting the lower carriage bolts of the hinges. But when doing so the head of the carriage bolt, as presented in the red circle in the below pictures, hits the front angle iron on the front board. So I am not able to slide the sideboards forward unless I tilt them sideways causing a gap between side board and front board. My parts catalogue is listing the carriage bolts which causes the problem, so it must be the correct bolts. Any ideas? Thanks, Danny

Thank you both Richard and John. Regards, Danny

Hi, Looking for 6 plow bolts 1/4-20 TPI or 1/4 BSW and 1.5 inches in length as presented in the pictures below. Head diameter is about 16 mm. Who can help me with these or where to find new ones? I found them on the internet as "plow" bolts for agriculture application but the smallest size is M8. No imperial sizes found so far. Regards, Danny

Hi Simon, Thank you very much for clarifying by the additional remarks in the drawing. For completion I think I have three more questions if you don't mind i.e.: 1. diameter of holes in the L-brackets as a spacing for the rivets of the rifle clips 2. position of the three holes for fitting the L-brackets to the long bracket 3. how did you measure the L-brackets, like 1 or 2 in the below drawing? Would be great if you could help me with these last questions! Regards, Danny

Hi Simon, Thank you very much for the measurements but to some extent is not completely clear to me. It could be because I'm a Dutchman and maybe therefore have some difficulties with the translation. I have tried to start from a flat drawing as presented in the picture below. I have tried to draw in as many sizes as possible but some sizes are not clear to me. Could you please confirm if the measurements in my drawing are correct? Furthermore: Can you explain your point 1 about the 3/4" off size? Can you explain both F sizes? Can you explain the 1.75" size for G How is H measured, as H1 or H2 in my drawing Maybe you can draw the answers in my drawing. Thanks, Danny

Hi Tomas, The rifle bracket in your MWC looks like it was originally fitted but is, as you say, different from the one in the attached picture. You could maybe help me out by measuring the thickness of the bracket as a starting point. I assume it is 5 or 6 mm? Furthermore, I still hope someone of the bedford owners out there is willing to help me out with the A to I measurements in my drawing! Thanks, Danny

Anybody ????

Hi, Could someone help me with the measurements of the riffle bracket and angle irons (2x) in a bedford mw? I 've enclosed a drawing with A to I indication to make it more easy. Please notice the most upper drawing indicating how I would comprehend the measurements for the bracket and angle irons i.e. total measurement including iron thickness for some cases. Appreciate your help, Danny P

John and Richard, You both were right on the subject! It was the regulator. Seems that there was a broken part inside. Bedford MW is running again without power leakage anymore! Thanks for your help! Regards, Danny

Richard, John, I had a phonecall from my friend just a few hours before your last posts. I understood he had a power contact each time when he does similar measurements as shown in the picture. He now thinks it's logical that he measures power because he makes the short circuit himself. At the time of measurement, he has a dicharge on the dash panel without running the engine. I hope I have understood this correct. Now the dynamo has been taken out for repair since he thinks this is the problem. So, when the dynamo doesn't appear to be the problem he certainly will come back to me for asking again on the forum. I will pass on your last insights and wait for his reply. Hope my explanation is a logical story as I am only trying to translate his problem so to speak. Thanks again, Danny

Problem seems to be the dynamo and has been taken out for repair. Thank you all for the support, also on behalf of my friend! Cheers, Danny

Convoy light is not fitted and my friend does not know how to proceed with a stuck contact if this could be the case. A picture is added of his regulator. He has disassembled the regulator and you can see where he does the measurement and so where the leakage is. Any suggestions to help him anyhow? Thanks, Danny