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Posts posted by Ron
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It was a little bit scabby Rik, but I smeared a bit of JB Weld around the worst bits and it all works fine. The actual center brass part with the hex nut is live when the lamp is switched on....Which does seem a strange idea.. But seems to work fine. Ron
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When Maz comes home and complains "What's that horrible smell" Just blame the pesky neighbours like I do "Gawd knows what they've been burning this time" Tut!
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I've spent some time on the battered number plate and tail lamp. I panel beat the number plate back into shape, stripped it... (not the number face), welded a small split and and primed and painted it satin black.
The lamp was a bit more of a challenge! I managed to gently unpeel the crimped on ally rim that was badly squashed and make the best shape out of it that I could. The red glass lens was badly scuffed and chipped. I tidied it up with a suede brush and re-painted it with stain glass paint. Then gently panel beat the main brass body into shape by using a nice fit socket inside as a dolly. I re crimped the rim back with a small amount of JP weld to help it hold together with the body and lens. Sprayed the rim with cold zinc and the body to match the bike. Rewired with a more accurate piece of rubber covered cable and tested on a 6V battery.
Just a rub over what's left of the original C number with Pledge Ron
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OK young Steve. Now get to your room and finish your homework. Uncle Ron
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Quite right Jenk but I had lost track of those extreme charges by the MVT for none members, in that case I'd probably try the TOC or VMCC first. As far as I've deduced, a NOVA certificate will not be required. See this thread. I have been a vehicle inspector for the MVT Dorset area for many years, so picked up quite a bit of information, although DVLA do keep changing things. Ron
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If you reclaim a vehicles original number by means of an old buff log book or some other means of proof, the original number will be reinstated on a non transferable basis. Ron
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Yes I've done it loads of times. You first need to get a dating letter from the Triumph Owners Club or the Military Vehicle Trust. (Google Vehicle Verification for both) You will need form V55/5 from DVLA https://www.gov.uk/dvlaforms or best search their site for further info. No MOT or Insurance is needed nowadays to register a vehicle, But random inspections are sometime instigated by DVLA's appointed inspectorate (SGI) but it's nothing to worry about for genuine un-molested vehicles.
However I don't know how any authority would view a frame number that looks like it might have been altered, which could result in a horrible 'Q' plate registration. Something to think about before any application is administered.. Ron
Sorry I altered the owners club as I was thinking of someone else
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If it's an Historic vehicle and as long as you have proof of the original registration. ie old buff log book. It's quite possible to reclaim it's original number if it hasn't already been used up (cherish number). Years gone by, you could often claim the number from it's number plates or tax disc, but I don't think DVLA will accept that any more.
Modern vehicles that are on the V5C computer system should get their original number back as a matter of course. For instance, I've had a cherished number for about 30 years and whenever I change my car, they always automatically give the car it's old number back. Ron
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Hi Steve, thanks for the kind words. I'm guessing this is post war damage! See that modern wire with blue crimp connector on the lamp, and the fixing screws were all different. Yes will straighten and repair everything to the best of my ability but leave the number plate face as it is. Ron
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Things are a bit slow at the moment, what with ill health and the lack of fasteners. But i'm always determined to get on with something. Tank knee grips fitted and although I cant fit the handlebar, I've got the cable installation out the way (yee haa) Definitely not a job for a roadside repair!!!
Ben has sent me his rear number plate which arrived today and it looks like it's been in a tail end shunt. I'm going to do what I can with the tail lamp (these are like rocking horse poo) and straighten up the number plate. Ben wants to preserve what is left of the only remaining original 1940 marking.... on the number plate. So I'll do my best at a sympathetic restoration.
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After phoning HMRC about 2 years ago to ask about a NOVA certificate for a 1942 WD Velocette and explaining that to my knowledge it had never been out of the country, they told me I didn't need a NOVA. So I mentioned that in a letter to DVLA with my application. The registration was accepted and I received an age related number within a couple of weeks.
I have subsequently registered two more WW2 military motorcycles with dating letters from MVT with no mention of the NOVA and both were accepted. However one of them did require an inspection by the DVLA appointed inspectorate (SGS) which I gather is called for on a random basis of about 1 in 10......Or if they have any suspicions about a vehicle. Ron
PS Andy. Dating letter for the Velo was from Roger Franklin
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Jenk, this deserves some debate, and the research is fascinating.
Firstly I also wondered about the crankcase being 3SW with a 3HW top and having checked the parts lists, they did indeed share the same crankcase, so I'm quite sure that's what Andy has. The previous owner just obliterated the SW.
As far as the frame goes. The forks are definitely 3HW Webb forks and the date given (if not altered) could be either 3SW or 3HW. But all the 3SW and 5SW frames that I've seen have the frame number stamped around the top bearing housing and not on the headstock like a 3HW has. (Of course I haven't seen all of them).
The field stand lug was NOT welded to the early 3SW's. My parts list for contracts C8079 and C7162 shows the clamp plate F1938SW and bolts F1941SW. So I'm guessing they started welding them on at some point during 7162? My own 3SW is from an earlier contract and although it has the field stand clip lug welded to the frame, there is no evidence of a welded pivot lug.
In this line up of 1939 bikes, you can see the clamp on the nearest 2-3 bikes if you zoom in.
I can't imagine what the previous owner of Andy's bike was up to, but in the easier days of cherished number plate dealings, it was common practice to use the same donor vehicle and just adjust the numbers to match a log book??? Ron
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Something is not right with these numbers? Frame TL 30307 is from contract C11465 which was 150 3SW.s supplied to the RAF
The first 3HW frame number was 30841. The frame numbers are not in line with the TL as if the original number has been obliterated. and the number looks a bit crude to me.
Engine number 36451 is also from a 3SW contract No C7162. Again the HW or whatever has been obliterated..
There is an original inspectors stamp on the crankcase.
Maybe someone else would like to chip in?
Ron
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OK definitely a 3HW engine, forks and frame stamped TEC 7. 41 ('Triumph Engineering Co' July 1941) I think you need to clean up the frame/eng numbers and post pictures. Ron
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TL 30307 is one of the last 3SW's from 1941. Engine '3SW' 36451 is from the previous contract in 1940. It sound like you have a sidevalve and not an OHV 3HW.........Need pictures! Ron
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There were 82 bikes ordered for the RAF in 1941. Frame numbers TL 30841-TL 30922. Ron
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Yes that is worth haggling over by starting with a lower offer. Not that it really matters, but there's no such thing as a pre-war 3HW! This engine is from the very last batch in 1945. Ron
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Well I'm clutching at straws Steve, so got to go along with whatever is offered. Haven't tried acupuncture yet!! Ron
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Not quite Andy. There's talk of an MRI scan to try and get a proper diagnosis. Ron
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Funnily enough Steve. The first WD/C that I owned years ago, left a trail of oil up the hill from my house on it's first outing, I could see that it came from the rear crankcase vent. I never used that bike and eventually sold it in favor of my current WD/C which I considered a much more correct project bike. I wonder if my first one had an un-drilled cap? I have seen that chapter before though.....Maybe from Jan? Ron
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Tell Vee to get her Stilettos on and come walk up and down my spine. Ron
Rear Lights
in British Vehicles
Posted
This is the war-time Lucas tail lamp (in red primer) shown with an axle flood lamp which I fitted to my Tilly as it would have been. I also fitted the more modern lamps and indicators for the sake of safety. I guess the lens is about 1" diameter. Can double check that tomorrow. Ron