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Posts posted by Ron
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Can a G3L mag platform be squeezed over the thicker G3 plates? I've never tried it but seem to remember that the mag platform is tight on the plates?? Ron
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Love the spaceship back light Lex! Ron
Uh OH just read your post properly deleted the bit about a Norton mudguard
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I can't help with any spare engine plates but I imagine they would have been 1/8" originally?? However I wonder if you might experience problems with the mag platform if you make them too thick?
Have you tried Steve Surbey at 'AMC Classics' for decent originals?
Ron
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A Dutch friend of mine has a tank from the last contract (still with original paint and census number found under black paint) This also has a chrome badge! But the Flea that was dug up at Oosterbeek definitely has white enamel. Clearly then unless these chrome ones were retro fitted, both types must have been used, but I'm told that mostly it was the type with white enamel.
Richard, Terry Roberts (Metal Magic) email address is metaltel@yahoo.co.uk Phone 01189 731631.He's in Eversley, Hampshire
My Flea is now quite correct and if you want any specific pictures, just PM me with your email address. Ron
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It's all back together Chris with no signs of touching anywhere, and it kicks through compression without slipping now. The factory pictures seem to show that they used the standard 250 chaincase.
The outer case is the one that Alan Swainson made for me, copied from yours, and since old Alan has passed away now, I won't be replacing it, even if an original turned up. Ron
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I know it's been well over a year since my last post on this thread, but in that time, a few issues have been dealt with.
Firstly, it was pointed out by Lex, that the rebuilt D shaped speedo that I bought off Malcolm Leach was in fact, "post war" but he kindly donated a war-time shell into which I've transferred the innards and glass from the other one.
Also I got a horrible feeling about not being able to remember the seal for the big end oil feed, so the timing cover had to come off. It turned out that a brass insert had been fitted (modification??) So I removed it and fitted an original type cork seal. Again donated by Carl from Guernsey as he'd had some made for his Model D. Carl also donated a decent timing chain cover to replace my painted cover.
Another thing that I didn't like was that I couldn't kick the engine through compression without my newly corked clutch slipping. On inspection of the factory strip down photo, you can clearly see that they used a 350 clutch and not the 250 clutch that I'd used.......So a 350 (model C) clutch has been acquired and fitted. Ron
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Yesterday I was asked by a guy in Netherlands if I could clarify the construction of the WD Miller tail lamp as he's in the process of making some good repros. So I removed my lens and took these pictures.
The ring around the back end of the lens is actually a groove on the inside which holds a spring wire circlip. This circlip clicks into a corresponding groove in the bulb holder. This should hold the lens in place if the screw falls out.
The lens rim diameter is 32.5mm. Ron
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Well you can go to all that trouble and then a correct one will turn up. The cheapest and easiest option is to just carefully paint it with enamel paint and put an original on your wish list!! Ron
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You've done bloody well Richard. It's nice to get a bike finished and a pleasure to stand back and admire it.
I'd say that all of my bikes when finished are not 100% correct! But then It's even more of a joy when the odd correct part like levers, lamps, badge comes along and those parts can be corrected.
Before I found my correct war-time Flea tank badge, I had the post war version which was entrusted to my friendly old sign-writer guy who simply painted the brass part white. However I've noticed slightly less white on the original.
First pic is two post war badges ,one painted in by old Terry (Sadly departed) Second pic is an original all enamel. Ron
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I know a guy up Chester way who performs that on M20 big ends. The HD rollers are longer, so you only get one row instead of two. But you have to be very precise and accurate at machining/grinding the pin and honing the eye.
There was a problem with Matchless crank pins breaking after the originals were replaced!
The original pin was a two part affair, ie the smaller diam part was pressed into the bigger part (the bit the rollers run on) and these were fine until they wore out.
Then someone had the idea to machine the whole thing from one piece of steel. The first ones were machined with a direct 90 degree corner were the two diameters met, which gave a fracture point and they were prone to brake and probably ruin your engine?
When this problem was realized, the corner was machined with a radius, which then necessitated filing/grinding/machining a corresponding radius in your flywheels.
Well over a year ago now, I bought a new big end from Les for my mates G3L which was the original type 2 part pin. Thank goodness they're making them the correct way again. Ron
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Good idea! But Les doesn't work on Monday's and Friday's
Ron
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From memory, but when I rebuilt my G3 engine a few yeas back, I'm fairly sure I bought those spacer washers 'Off the shelf' from http://www.amcclassicspares.com/ ........Big end was absolutely knackered😞 Ron
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AH yes thanks. Back to how it was then. What a load of Bollocks though!! In the beginning, I accidentally applied for a 'goods' licence instead of a 'vehicle' licence. What a palava trying to cancel it when they asked me for my yearly report😣 Ron
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Someone posted on another forum that the OGEL registration is required again for France??? Anyone else know anything through IMPS or MVT tours for next year?
See page 10 of the 2018 information form.
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PS. I've seen militarized post war Fleas being advertised as war-time for several thousand Pounds and Euros. Ron
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You certainly did OK at that price!👍 Ron
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Terry Roberts (Metal Magic) in Hampshire makes reproduction headlamps, blackout masks and lots of other parts for Fleas and James ML's. metaltel@yahoo.co.uk but better to phone on 01189 731631.
I assume you realize that yours is a post war civilian model.....(and only paid accordingly).
Ron
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BSC is Whitworth form with a thread angle of 60 degrees. UNF is 55 degrees. You can use them together, but definitely not good working practice. Ron
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I just checked mine (I have a 3SW and a 3HW) It is indeed 1" x 20tpi. Draganfly have them but don't mention the tpi.
https://draganfly.co.uk/index.php/accessories-a-misc/product/36952-
PS I see what you mean on the internet where 26tpi is mentioned for singles. I suppose it depends if a later clutch is fitted? Since Draganfly quote the correct part number, it might be an idea to phone and ask them.
Ron
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Flea restoration
in Motorcycles
Posted
Richard the levers are about 4 3/4" long... Also a shot of my Airmaze filter with one of Arnaud's repro name plates on.
My James ML has the almost identical 'Coopers' maze filter which originally had the makers details embossed into the end cap. I simply sanded the embossed lettering down and fitted one of Arnaud's name plates to make it 'Airmaze' 😈 Ron