Ron

J. Try Geoff Myers on gjmyers@mac.com. I'm sure he had those toolbox knobs at Kempton last week. Or try vintage motorcycle parts on ebay. I just saw an Indian copy. Better still. Try and make Stafford 28-29 April. Ron

Yes Rob! Chuffed to bits to get the ammo locker from Australia. This is it (before and after). I believe the other 2 pdrs went to the Muckelbourgh Collection. I'm looking for an elevation wheel now. Ron

I have been reading this thread with interest, but not at all qualified to respond. However Tim Gray mentioned a 2 pdr A/T. So without meaning to hijack the thread. hear are a few of shots of mine. Rob does know about it and would concur... not many in private hands in UK. I acquired it about 15 years ago when it was repatriated after being found derelict in South Africa. I can provide information about it's resurrection and future proposals as it remains a work in progress......Or should I start another thread? Ron (south coast UK).

Thanks for the kind offer Vulture. But with thoughts of the M27, M3, M25 and A1M in mind. It could be some time. However it was very picturesque around Somersham when we finally got there. Ron

Hello Vulture. This Enfield WD/L I just acquired came from Huntingdon! I was there last week. Ron

No problem Graham. I bought this wiring from Auto Sparks. They produce the cotton covered individual cables also. Google them up at http://www.autosparks.co.uk/ Ron

J. Here is the gear indicator. Flimsy and fitted post war as Steve mentioned. You could probably get one off the shelve from Oliver Barns at 'Trisupply' or 'Ace Classics'. The tool box knob is the dumbbell shape. (designed so that they can't swivel undone with vibration). Probably also available from those Trumpet dealers or 'Russell Motors' or his Brother Geoff Meyers. Ron

Thanks Steve, any snippets of information you can come up with would be gratefully received. Naturally I'm in constant contact with Jan. Here is a letter from the REOC which Jan has confirmed from the ledgers, which states that the bike was dispatched to Hilsea in 42. Also here is a line up of Enfield's that you might have seen. Looks like a training unit (signals?). Not a number plate in sight The fourth, fifth and seven bike in the line are in fact WD/G's from Contract C8621. 1940/41 (The owner of the original photo has confirmed the census numbers on the first two G's) (Jan is hoping to buy the photo). Also by zooming in, we can see that the second G is not sporting panniers. Since there is a lack of WD/L pictures. I will have to use the sister G pictures as reference......Or can you come up with a nice factory picture from contract C8620 from that shoe box under the bed??? Good to chat..Ron

Thanks Jenkinov. The information regarding this bike is very sparse, to say the least. The first contract of 100 of these in 1940, show the bikes fitted with front number plates. But i think that the later contract in 42, along with the sister WDG's had the number plates deleted. Traditionally, Royal Enfield always used a three fixings front number plate. My front guard only had two holes. So I assumed that they were for a post war fitments number plate and I sub sequentially welded them up. Ron

Thanks Andy. So you had an oil cap then lost it? Bugger! Ron

Yes Jules, just stuff a ball up the tube. The trouble is, I work on so many different bikes that I forget some of the finer details. I recently rebuilt a couple of Matchless's and I had to lengthen the rod on one of them. It was only possible to do it the way I described because the ball can fall into the gearbox on a Matchless. Ron

Jules that cir clip has been a matter of discussion before. It is often missing and I can't really see what good it does anyway. These clutches are fairly heavy duty as built for the WO. If your clutch basket is a bit crowded because perhaps the new plates are a bit thick. You can leave one steel and one friction plate out of the assembly. It will give you a much lighter clutch and more room for it to free off. Also your clutch push rod needs to be the right length. If it's to short you can lengthen it by cutting it in half. Then add a ball bearing of the same diameter between the two halves. Any small adjustment to the length can be carried out by removing some metal from one of the halves (harden and temper the ends). Finally turn your attention to the clutch operating lever on the kick-start side. Loosen the clamp bolt and move the lever to the correct position. Ron PS this all takes longer to write down than to do!! (one finger typing)

Did someone mention a WS No11? Few and far between. My Morris was built during that BEF/ early North Africa period. and I have equipped it with an 11 set. I'm currently under way with a copy of the antenna base. Ron

Shudup you lot! I can't be there. I'm pissed right off! I blame Jack. Ron

Well I hadn't intended to make a start just yet. But the unique front mudguard was worrying me. It looks like someone had run into something, and the sides where popped out like gumboils. So I spent a couple of hours yesterday with a rubber mallet and the guard clamped to my workmate. Then I spent all day today working on it. I started with Nitromoors and a rope wire wheel in my angle grinder to strip the paint. Weld the un wanted number plate holes. Then some knocking up with some panel beaters hammers and dollies. Finally a skim of filler to cover the hammer marks. Tomorrow I will give it a coat of red oxide primer and then it's ready for some high build primer in the future. Ron

Are you working without a manual? Here are a couple of pages from a Big4 manual which is the same. Ron

Yes this sunny weather does inspire one to go for a ride. I like that service brown colour and had decided to spray my WD/L in that colour. But now I have found the inner chain case is untouched and Khaki green.....So that buggers that idea I think. Is your silencer an original egg shaped item? Very rare and very nice! Ron

Hi Frank. After the early stages of the war, number plates and traditional tail lights were replaced by these simple fag end lamps. But the best option for today's use by my thinking is to fit a period number plate and a reproduction Lucas MT110 tail lamp, as seen here on my M20. The lamps are available in great numbers on ebay from about £15. As opposed to an original, they come with a twin filament bulb for a stop light. Make sure you ask for a 6volt bulb though. Ron

Well the previous owner never had lights on the bike when he bought it, and ran it for a year with a daylight MOT. But he acquired this NOS 8" headlamp which he has passed on to me. Ron

Since this bike has already been mentioned on this forum and I have now collected it from Cambridgeshire. Here are a few pictures. The bike was last used in 1986 by the previous owner. He stripped the engine in that year and hasn't touched it since. There are lots of original features as well as a few wrong bits. The original paint on the inside of the chain case seems to be Khaki Green. I'll post updates on this thread as I progress. Ron

Are you guys aware of the Tilly register? Dedicated to the four makes plus the Austin 8 tourer. During any of your rebuilds or dismantling wrecks. If you come across a spare engine oil filler cap, please bear me in mind. Mine has a plastic one from a BMC A or B series, which has been on it for the 22 years I have owned it, and is really bugging me. Ron

Well with the parts Jan makes. It will be the correct MCR1. Ron

That picture was taken a couple of years ago during the rebuild Steve. Do you recognise this one? Today's sunshine inspired me to get an MOT in anticipation of the imminent riding season. Ron

Yes the Norton 16H and Triumphs used this clamp to the frame type MCR1 regulator. Jan from this forum can convert your standard type to the tube type. Here is my 16H and one of my Triumphs. Ron

One of my bikes needs an MOT and two more looming up. But I'm waiting for the politicians to decide if they're going to make historic vehicles exempt or not. So far they seem to be toying with three dates:- pre 1920- pre 1945- pre 1960. Ron