-
Posts
3,442 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
39
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Events
Articles
Store
Downloads
Posts posted by Ron
-
-
Steven and his Mum Linda at AMC Classic spares are always helpful and useful. http://www.amcclassicspares.com/
Ron
-
I thought it would be easy to buy a ready made plated WD/CO petrol pipe from Hitchcocks and modify it to suit. After all, how much different can it be? WRONG!! The sweat was dripping off my nose today whilst struggling to re-bend it and get all the nuts to line up as well as avoid it chafing on carb, mag, frame etc.
Ron
-
I had to use some cotton covered cables for the dynamo and horn. But otherwise it's an original loom. Here are a few more shots showing:- 8" blackout mask - view from riders right eye with pre war pattern dome glass ammeter and Jaeger speedo - MT110 tail lamp - and general views. Ron.
PS. The Clearhooters horn sounds like a very weak cat!
-
Funnily enough Steve, parts of this loom are shiny enough to be PVC but is in fact real rubber. The whole thing has the coloured tabs at the ends. ( I have some from EES). There is a redundant cable from the headlamp to past the battery and I have managed to pull it out of the outer sheathing. There might just be enough for the horn push. I never follow the wiring diagram for the horn. I much prefer to pick up the live feed from the battery rather than the ammeter. The only modern cables I have used are the ones inside the headlamp from switch to bulbs. I'm using an 8" blackout mask so no need for a dip switch. I've also fitted an original MT110 tail lamp and I'm not going to spoil that with a brake light either. I should get the wiring finished tomorrow and take some pictures. Ron
-
-
The whole speedo assembly for this bike is strange, to say the least. For some reason Royal Enfield fitted reverse drive speedos to some of their pre war models.....of which the WD/L is derived. Brian Woods (Speedo repairs) was able to reverse the action of my standard Jaeger pattern unit, by adding an idler wheel somehow. Tom and Dave at JJ cables have surpassed themselves with a bespoke cable. Of course I had to endure Tom's sarky comments as usual.......But it's all done in the best possible taste!! Ron
-
OK. Probably like BSA the model year for 39 started in Sept 38? Ron
-
Yes the proper ones are moulded from rubber and have a raised up portion at the 'T' end. The other cheap crap are just stamped out of sheet neoprene and will snap as soon as you look at them.......Britbits sell the good ones also.
Ron
-
John your 3HW comes from the last contract of 8000 built Feb-Sept 45. starting with frame number 53418. This contract was reduced to 5200 machines. By my calculations, your bike just squeezes in as the 5126th machine from this contract. I also calculate your tank census number as C6106543....... Courtesy Steve's book. Ron
-
Exactly Vince. I'm not sure what this other kit is that they offer. But if you check there site for 'Parts book on line 350 rigid CO'.. 40792 is indeed the correct filter, which fits all our WD models.
http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/69/1945_-_1946_Model_CO
Ron
-
Hi All
Does anyone know where to source an Oil Filter kit for the WD/CO? I see Hitchcocks do a kit but wasn't sure if its the exact fit for this age of motorcycle.
Also does anyone know the purpose of the rubber doughnuts on the from suspension, either side of the head stock?
Finally, what oil should be used in the gearbox? I've heard about something called EPO?
Thanks for the guidance.
Regards
Vince.
Vince I posted a reply to your query about the doughnuts on my WD/L thread....with picture!!
And yes the oil filters from Hitchcocks are ideal for our WD models.....Same filter fits all.
I use monograde SAE 50 in my box's
Ron
-
The only person I know who does carb rebores and re sleeve the slide, is good old Marty Bratby on 01543572583.
Ron
-
Barry,I'd have more trouble than normal, getting my leg over! Ron
-
Cracking picture below - love to see DR's with a smoke in their mouths - thought it was just 'Yank' reenactors who done this :cool2:
And in case you were wondering Jack. They all look like BSA M20's. Ron
-
Taff the Horn's site is always interesting and he sometimes has WD Altettes and Clearhooters for sale.
Ron
-
-
-
I find the 741's not well suited to convoy work, of which I do a little. Better for lolling along in top gear. The 15bhp engine combined with three speed box and time lag when changing gear, often means I am in the wrong gear. I figured by increasing my engine power to say 17bhp and with a foot change four speed box, should give me what I need.(not convoy duty). Considering I am using a BSA M20 as my chassis which as standard is only 12bhp. (14bhp with an M21 engine).
My intention is to make a 1930's look alike Brit V twin with some bling and pin stripes, that I can use at Indian rallies.
Here is my military 741. Ron
-
Apart from my standard 741 military. I am also building a special with a 741 engine. I bought some big bore pistons and larger inlet valves from Juergen for my special, I think it gives me about 580cc.
I love my 741 military, but unlike Barry, I find it's not the easiest bike to ride. So I'm building an easy to ride Indian.
Ron
-
I have found Juergen in Germany most helpful http://www.indianteile.com/Frames/Frame2.htm
Also Jerry Greer's engineering in the States https://www.jerrygreersengineering.com/
Ron
-
Ian the early contracts of Austin Tilly's had a brake lamp fitted along side the tail lamp in the oval hole under the rear tail gate. However by the time my Tilly was built, the stop lamp was deleted. So yes at least some WW2 vehicles had stop lamps. I couldn't give you chapter and verse though.
Sorry I can't help with the lamps but I think Adrian Barrel had some. Ron
-
Ian I think what you have there is the remains of a pair of rear facing lamps. One tail and one stop. For blackout purposes the switch would turn the tail-lamps out and illuminate the axle flood-lamp which would be sited facing forward and aimed at a white plate mounted on the axle.
Here is lamps that I fitted to my Tilly. A Butler flood-lamp (in box) and a stop or tail lamp. Ron
-
I've now fitted some new parts in the gearbox and cleaned up the cases. I had forgotten what a nonsense these are to fit/remove!! Much improved by Royal Enfield on later models by simply slotting the bottom lug. I had to refrain from doing it to this box in the name of originality. I have a few more bits painted and much more enjoy the build up over the cleaning, stripping, welding, filling, sanding and spraying. One of my next tasks will be to modify and make fit my Indian made Model G air box. I'll post pictures as I go. Ron
-
See you at Goodwood then Steve. Ron
bike pic
in Motorcycles
Posted
Yes a very nice picture. I'd say it's a pre war Velo. MAC.
Ron