R Cubed

Not sure at the moment :nut:

Are there any other American mv's which use the same sort of gauge but has a longer capillary ?

Have a look on the G503 jeep forum, there is a very good article with photos under GPW and MB technical knowledge forum on testing and repairing 6V gas gauges

 

Pete

Thanks Pete, had a good read of that post although a completely different gauge I got the jist of what was going on, Stripped my gauge down and tested through only to discover it also had an earth issue inside the gauge, pics to follow.

Make sure the gauge itself is well earthed. i usually solder a short piece of wire to the back of the gauge and fix that wire to a good earth point.

Yep, did not realize the gauges needed an earth to the case however just earthing the case did not help as it was due to corrosion inside the gauge case itself.

Thanks for the direction will give that a try

Hi all does anyone know if it is possible to get a GMC style water temp gauge with a longer than GMC length capillary tube on it and what it might have been fitted to.

Hi all getting round to sorting out the fuel gauge on my truck, never been connected since I have had it. Well I have got the fuel gauge and float sender out on the dinning room table and cant get it to play can anyone out there confirm how it should work !! the variable resistor on the float works fine ranging from empty position at 1.5 Ohms to full position at 29 Ohms.

The gauge however seems to be operating back to front, but at best will only read just over the E mark but in operating the float the needle moves between the emptiest point to just over the E mark.

Have 6 volt +ve feed to one connection on gauge the other connection of the gauge to the screw term on the float sender and the sender housing to earth -ve also have noticed in manual it looks like the gauge case needs earthing too which I have done.

Any other suggestions..... that I might have missed.

All you need is to get a new one piece seal for a Dodge weapons carrier, they are the same size and have molded corners, then you need to open the screen outwards pull out seals from the 3 sides, clean the grooves out properly and then slide the new seal into the grooves carefully the hard part is doing the corners time and patience and some silicone grease and blunt screwdrivers is the way to go.

Dont forget to look at the new seal carefully as they have a natural bend to the profile so if you put it in the wrong way round the lippy bit will bend away from the windscreen support frame.

But don't do as I say as you might get hurt.......

Try these links the first is Charlies SD1 Rover.

Enjoy

The Swandean spitfire special from the 1950's never had a Rolls grill, and it does have a supercharged Merlin engine.

I think you are confusing this car with the much later built car from the 1970's with a fibreglass coupe body,and Meteor engine owned by John Dodd, it had automatic transmission and was rear wheel drive, that car had much publicity including the run in with Rolls Royce over the use of the radiator grill, eventually that caught fire and was burnt out

That car built by John Dodd was called the Beast after it caught fire it was rebuilt and I think it is now over in Spain still running, looks like a strange sort of Ford Capri with a looooong bonnet.

A story goes that it was on a German autobahn and roared past a driver in a Porsche so much so that the Porsche driver rang Rolls Royce wanting the new model that just passed him as it had a RR grill on the front.

Looks like its almost impossible to match the thread on that pipe fitting ...:undecided:

What a job, sorry to give you all late nights researching all those SAE's UNF's, UNC's, AN's and TPI's :cool2: :cool2:

Ha, silly me thought it was an easy job.

If it rains much more this year, like it did last year I am going to start collecting stamps.................:-D

congratulations to you and all beers all round and a here here cheers

Thanks everyone still feel as young as ever ........

the answer is no ........ here is what Hg and PSI are equal to;

1 inHg = 0.491 098 psi, or 2.036 254 inHg = 1 psi.

All very interesting, thanks

No sadly not - the unit of measurement is different. 14.6 psi is just about the same as 30 in Hg. You could measure a vacuum in psi if you wished though.

Yep, I realized the units are different but thought there must be some kind of similarity between them and here you two go and deliver the goods.

All these calculations are all very interesting, just goes to show they knew what they were doing back then didn't they

Thanks very much.

Right then imagine two chambers with actuating rods coming out of them one to push out on pressure and one to push out on vacuum, would 20" Hg vacuum give the same force on the rods as 20psi ?

Got another question, what thread size is the temp gauge sender hole in the top back of the cylinder head on a gmc 270 ?

Answer:- npt also same thread and size to fit the temp sender hole on a Cummins 6BT..

1/4 and 5/16 SAE?

Little confused here, so if I order 1/4" or 5/16" male unions they will fit over the 1/4" or 5/16" dia tube, how does that work !!!! Do they then send them in a Self Addressed Envelope isnt that what SAE means :blush:

Yeah.. that's kinda obvious.

 

TM9-801 has all of 1 sentence regarding tube repair:

 

Para 191(d) Pg 361

d. Tube Repair. Hydraulic tubing may be cut and flared with standard flaring equipment.

 

 

What you want to do is get a copy of the Nov 1944 Army Motors, it has a complete write up on the new brake line routing.

 

Other than being a standard double flare and the needing the proper frame rail T's its all standard stuff. Just be careful that the counter person doesn't give you ISO parts (ie metric) instead of standard fittings.

Yep thanks for the info on the tube I have the flaring tools to do the ends and the copper / nickle tube, as I have done the lines in the chassis about 10 yrs ago and still as good as new, but did not know the sizes of the male union ends.

Ok guys, I know the two sizes of brake pipe in the chassis on the CCKW's is 1/4" and 5/16" but what about the sizes of unions on the ends of the pipe ?

The 352 tanks are about 7 feet long they have two baffle plates in side them where the tank straps go round, they are almost solid side to side and top to bottom except for large diagonal cutouts on the corners where the tank is curved, there are two drain plugs one is the fuel outlet in the middle of the tank and the other is at one end in the base there is also the fuel level gauge sender which would also provide a hole for access good luck.

Question please for anyone who has had to clean out a 352 elongated fuel tank. The vehicle we have just started to restore has sat for 10 years minimum the tank whilst looking sound is full of emulsified s..t , I see two drains , is there a baffle in there? Should I steam it out?, with it being near 5' long hard to dry out or blow out with an air line from one end, would appreciate advise from one of you old boys out there to save me wasting time.

That would be great and if you can take some pics of the air connections to the wiper motors and also the route up the windscreen to them.

They are powered by air. I can get pics this weekend. Do you also need pictures of the air supply line(s) to the wipers?

 

 

 

John G

Great pics thanks for the effort good pics of what I needed.

One other thing how do the wiper motors work are they powered by air pressure and not vacuum ? a couple of pics would be great.

Thanks

Check page 13 and 14 of the Ward LaFrance gallery pics in the wrecker section. They are of my truck, hope this helps.

 

John G

Not quite good enough, need square on pics showing detail of all the gauges on the dash, hope you have some lurking around.

Thanks for the links.

Has any one out there got some good pics of the dash with gauges in on an open cab Ward for reference.

No problems glad to help. Got the uj circlips sorted out now so that's another thing done.

Perhaps we should understand a bit more about what you are planning - spring brakes and CCKWs doesn't sound like a good plan......

 

No don't want to go down this route I do not want brakes coming on with no air. But do want added safety in respect to dual circuits and brake gun as you say.

Anything to do with putting an air over hydraulic servo on a CCKW and straight air brakes / spring air chambers on a gun by any chance?

How do you know this stuff have you got a camera hid somewhere watching my every move :cool2:

Richard, be VERY careful with spring brake units, they can kill. Please don't touch them at all until you fully understand them. I have witnessed the damage that they can cause. Not nice.

Good call Degsy, second that!

Richard,

I am with Tony (NOS) on this, we need to know what vehicle you are intending to convert before any real advice can be given. I would think if it were a GMC for instance, an air over hydraulic unit to assist the hydraulics, and one spring brake chamber for the handbrake. A friend of mine fitted a diesel in a Bedford QL and did it this way and it has been quite succesfull.

The advice from Gritineye about spring brake chambers is very important. I have rebuilt a good number and you need the correct compression tool and even then it is not foolproof. I once saw a guy doing on of these at work and minutes later I heard a spring flying across the floor hitting everything in its path. Expecting the worst I went to see if he was alright and he was sat on the floor with a look of bewilderment, luckily for him it went away from him, else it would have knocked his head off.

 

regards, Richard

All useful information here, hope Rcubed is taking notes

Yep guys, all notes being taken, quite agree with comments on springs I am very aware of the sorts of forces that can be contained in compressed springs so there is no need to worry on that case as I will not be venturing in to anything I don't fully understand.

As I have never interfered with air brakes ever before I have posted here to find out more before I decide what to use.

So here we go this thing here I would say is an air brake chamber, I presume these also contain springs but not VERY STRONG to aid in the return of the operating mechanism to a rest position ?

This beasty here I would call a spring brake chamber as I presume in one of the black chambers there is a big nasty spring strong enough to hold the brakes on full ?