R Cubed

As you can see from the vid there seems to be a mixture issue as although it will idle fine and once warm is even better, takes only about 1/2 to 1 turn of the engine and its running.. so I am very pleased with that bit, however it will not rev without full choke on, once it has full choke it will rev hard and fast without any issues. Now working on the throttle linkage which is proving another challange.

Got some tasty bits at the post office waiting to be collected you will see them soon :laugh: might need a bulge in the bonnet though :blush:

Crankcase breather tube now connected and the non-return valve for the hydrovac is also fitted but blanked off at the moment.

I use to get worried about getting a few grey hairs appearing here and there, then it was the grey hairs falling out !!! now my forehead is getting bigger starting to meet the back of my neck....

Oh to old age.

Also now getting "Lego leg" this is where you sit down on the floor to play Lego with your kids and then all of a sudden you cant feel your legs any more, have to get up and then its the pins and needles.... aggggaa

All I have to say is, its draughty round my neck and ears...

I'm beginning to think we're in a minority :laugh:

I am sorry to say I started getting lots of high resistance joints through the ignition switch ect started to get troublesome starting and this coupled with wanting much better lights I went for 12 volts, not looked back, kept the 6 volt starter though, poor old engine does not get the option of not starting as it turns over so fast it has to start.

Also handy for over taking up hill just push the starter button and woooosh you have passed every thing :cool2: Sorry only kidding.....

 

Guys, I feel the engine is cranking over too slowly on start-up (from cold). That said I've only heard a couple of others start up, so I'm looking to those more knowledgeable to share their thoughts please.

 

Points to note:

 

- It's a 6 volt system.

Not really a problem.

- The battery was new last Jun.

Good

- The battery was fully charged.

Good

- I've cleaned the battery terminals recently (it made no difference)

good, use boiling water to dissolve any corrosion on the battery terminals (don't burn yourself), then apply a good helping of Vaseline to all electrical connections, Battery and also the starter motor connection.

- I've cleaned the connection on the earth strap on the chassis recently (it made no difference).

Good, need to do battery neg to chassis and also the earth straps between the chassis and engine ect, they do need to be down to bright bare steel on the chassis and a good clean copper colour, or tinned colour on tinned earth straps, then good helping of the Vaseline all over the joint then bolt up tight.

- I've cleaned the connection on the starter switch yesterday (it made no difference). (Condition of bolt 'poor').

Not so good, again joint needs to be clean and tight. Cover with Vaseline.

- I pulled back the metal band and inspected the contacts. Armature is clean and the contacts look almost new.

Should be.

- I didn't expect the engine to start on this crank, as the choke wasn't out and I hadn't pumped the accelerator.

What is the concern with slow cranking ? does it sometimes not start, it is only 6 volts don't forget !!!! Thats about as fast as I have heard others truck turn over.

- Lubricated the end bearing recently.

Should be a regular thing

- No idea when the starter was last removed and the front bearing lubricated.

remove starter and grease all moving parts, not too much though you don't want it all flying off over the clutch !!!

I'm planning to buy a multimeter to do a resistance check on the wiring.

You don't want to carry out a resistance test on the wiring. You need a voltmeter, connect one voltmeter lead to the battery POS + term the other lead of voltmeter to the next POS + connection down the line, you are looking for a reading as near to "0 zero" as possible this proves there is little resistance (ie no volt drop) can also be done when cranking the starter, this will prove the wiring between the battery and the starter. Once this is done you can follow this on all the way and also check other wiring like lights ect.

You can also use the voltmeter in the conventional way ie: connect black lead to NEG - and then with the red lead poke around the coil feed is important you need as many volts at the coil + as possible ( the more volts the bigger the spark )

From the starter there is a wire which goes up to the AMMETER then on to the ignition switch then on to the coil lots of points to lose valuable volts, as NOS said don't expect to see much more than about 3 to 4 volts at the coil when cranking, the starter on load when cranking draws about 350 AMPS, I know I have load tested my truck :wow:

Ideas, comments, observations ?

 

As an aside,

1. What do you use to lubricate the starter linkage ? The TM doesn't say (unless I'm missing it).

2. Anyone have a diagram or photos showing the inside of the switch ?

 

Kind regards to all

 

Vulture

1. All kinds of linkage should be regularly greased to prevent wear at contact points where rods pass through plates and bushes ect. Such as all the link rods connecting the leavers in the cab with transfer box ect, Good saying if it moves grease it.... cant go far wrong with that..

2. The inside of the starter switch on the top of the starter is like 3 triangles should look a bit like this.

It could have been worse -

 

 

Found this on the same youtube page as your video!!

I have seen that before, did make me chuckle lots, quite a big engine to be jumping about like that :shocked:

Thanks Rich,

 

The problem is that we cannot lock the 'box in gear in order to offer up the clutch splines. It looks as though the 'box needs some air to select a range and gear. We plan to pressurise it from the portable compressor and see if that does the trick. Apparently the 'boxes are locked in gear when supplied new...

 

- MG

Is there no way of wiping the top off an inspection cover or something and manually selecting a gear, don't put tooo much air pressure in there you don't want to blow any seals, but then you probably know that....

Might have to have a chat with you about a 6BT :cool2:

So folks,

 

Following on from Vince's earlier post we removed the gearbox today to change what we thought was a worn out clutch. However upon removing the clutch it is almost new. In fact there is almost as much meat on it as on the new one. The pedal had been getting higher and higher and on my last trip out I was concerned even about making it home so I don't know what the problem actually was/is other than something hydraulic?

 

We decided to fit the new clutch assembly in case it was the pressure plate that was the problem but having fitted it we cannot get the 'box back on. We forgot to put it in gear before removing and we now cannot get it into gear. It is an Eaton splitter. Does anyone have any suggestions as we have no experience of this type of box?

 

MV content: without this truck our CVRTs and friends' Halftracks don't go to shows.

 

Thanks in advance - MG

Hi Mike and Vince

Is the new cover plate the same as the old one height wise.

are the splines lined up with the pilot bearing in the crank.

Has clutch fork dropped off and jamming the the gearbox from going back on.

Clutch release bearing catching on something.

You need to stop the input shaft turning on the box can you take off a top plate and select a gear.

Good luck you probably know all of the above :undecided:

Make sure you plug that PCV elbow on the top of the valve cover or it may blow oil all over.

Not going to plug it, it will connected back up to the inlet manifold like it would have been originally. Same goes for the vacuum line for the hydrovac and the vacuum line for the wipers too, also on the jobs to do is sort the throttle linkage and choke cable.

Awesome !! :dancinggirls: The purists will be offended, but I'm fascinated to hear how it performs !

To be honest I am not at all worried about the purists, if it makes it more drivable, reduces the fuel consumption and adds a bit more power I will be well chuffed.

If you rev it from idle it seems to pick up much quicker than with the old single choke carb on it, but then it would do wouldn't it with a carb of that size on it......

:wow:I think a rev limiter might come in useful;)

That will be the aerodynamics of the truck, that will keep the speed down

Ok ok I think I have teased you all enough so here you go.. Please note no vac line to hydrovac, throtle linkage or rocker cover breather connected yet.

mmmmm Weber 4 barrel with vac secondaries....

No it's not leaning over it is the angle of the camera, although the inlet manifold is not level ( front to back ) and the carb is.

Front view looking towards cab.

mmmm square carb mounting plate to round tube to fit the manifold tube assy now that's a challenge :nut:

Looking down from the side. We will have to see how it does or doesn't perform :cry:

Twin S.U. carbs? Won't there be a lot of frost on that inlet though?

Nope, not twin S.U.'s but you are getting warmer....

Frost might be a problem but time will tell !

NOS you know me too well or do you have control of a satellite round my way :shocked:

Anyway here is a bit more of a pic mmmmmm what could it be.....

Does it involve creating a large 'Power Bump' and inlet grille in the bonnet? :shocked:

No it all fits in under the bonnet :blush:

So have you gone for an LPG conversion then?

Nope !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just before anyone mentions it, yes the middle two exhaust tubes are bigger than the end two as the end two are single ports and the middle two are shared ports.

I suppose I could make some, would need to make a jig to set the cylinder head flanges and down pipe flange in the correct places first though

Oh there is more to this pic than meets the eye the best bit is just off the top of the pic but more of that latter..

A good up date to this sorry situation. Well I have tracked down the knocking noise to what was a blowing exhaust manifold gasket joint at the cylinder head on number 3 exhaust port, the manifold was in a bad way, rust and corrosion round the port faces meant they did not seal tight enough and a crack after port 3 towards port 4 ( at the rear of the engine ) I don't want to pay for a new cast manifold at the moment sooooo........

I have manufactured my own tubular manifold and this has solved the problem.

This sounds interesting, presume we are talking about the bolts which fix the wooden bows and uprights to the metal curved corners, if so all the ones on my truck have very domed heads and have a single slot in it for a straight bladed screwdriver, and they are UNC, not sure of the actual size but will measure when I get a mo.

OMG what can I say ..... I am so sorry about the picture, I did not even know it was taken, SHE will answer for that.

Cant the mods do something about obsean pictures. Wow that is a bad pic:blush:

I do hope it has not affected anyone mental state...

Nikwax cotton proffer.

How about this Nikwax Wax Cotton Proof stuff then ?

Or maybe the secret is out.......

 

Naaaaaa thats a hard cab and its only got one rear axle.......:cheesy:

he he he....

Hmmmmmm, now that will be telling.

Maybe a winter project coming up.........May have turned to the dark side :red:

I know its probably a stupid thing to mention but you did use vacuum hose so it does not collapse when under vacuum !!!!!!

Cubed

 

Did you take any photos whilst doing this ? Anything spring related makes me shudder, after a narrow escape I had with a coiled spring some years ago.

 

Vulture[/quote

 

No sorry no pics. No real dramas though just a pain to get the 2 "U" shackes out, tip is to soak the points where the threads go through the main mounting block do this several weeks before carring out any work, I used diesel and they slid out with a little help of a bottle jack under the nut to help push the U shackle upwards.

 

Leaf springs are not as much of a scarry thing as coils, as generally once the weight is off them there is no more tension in them. ( but always proceed with caution )