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andym

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Posts posted by andym

    FV 433 Abbott

    in Tracked vehicles

    Posted

    17 minutes ago, diesel1 said:

    Any pointers on what to look for on the abbot?

    ive had a 432 before and got a sabre at the moment so i not new at what to look for?

    viewing is on saturday

    Take a good look round the vehicle and see how unmolested it is.  Are all the bits present in the engine bay such as the Firewire frame in front of the radiator?  How much of the turret contents are present?  They are awkward to find if you want to do a full restoration.

    As with all K60 vehicles, the heat exchanger is the weak point.  Look for water in the gearbox oil or oil in the radiator.  They are unique to the Abbot, impossible to get hold of as spares and very difficult to repair, not helped by the fact that the entire pack seems to be built round them. 

    Check for overheating, the fans and their hydraulic system are also unique to the Abbot. Other than that, check the battery charging voltage as dead regulator boxes aren't uncommon.   Some Abbots suffered from hull cracking but as it's under the pack you won't be able to see it.  Oh, and take it for a decent drive to check gears and brakes!

    Andy

    432 Hot Start Problems, what is the cause?

    in Tracked vehicles

    Posted

    There are three types of starter to be found on FV430s with K60 packs.  The original axial Starter No.3 Mk.1 has a thermal switch that opens at 135 degrees C to prevent the starter from overheating.  Not surprisingly, it was later realised this might not be a good idea on the battlefield so the outwardly identical axial Starter No.3 Mk.2 does not have the thermal switch.  Both types of starter were later replaced with the S152 coaxial starter which also doesn't have a thermal switch.  Note however that vehicles fitted with the S152 must have the modified DLB with starter relay as the starter switch can't cope with the higher solenoid current of the S152.

    Andy

    Left hand wheel nut threads

    in I may be stupid, but......

    Posted

    Incidentally, in my experience applying large amounts of steady torque isn't the way to break a sticky thread (and torque multipliers are designed for doing things up, not undoing them).   Using a decent length bar on the socket and bouncing the head of a sledgehammer off it is far more effective as the shock breaks the "lock" without wrecking the stud.

    Andy

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