Sean N

Colin, I hate to say this but if you're going to fit a remote filter that's probably not the best way to do it.

Most K9s were fitted with a bypass filter, as yours is. Bypass filters are fitted in parallel to the normal flow of oil through the bearings - they don't take the full flow of the oil. That's why a high dispersancy oil (one that retains contaminants in suspension so they can be filtered out) is a bad idea with a bypass filter, and why oil change intervals are so short in bypass filter engines.

For a classic vehicle, seeing low and not particularly arduous use and (hopefully) regular maintenance at probably shorter than recommended intervals, this probably isn't an issue. You could live with the old filter and change the oil regularly, likely without problem, or fit a new standard bypass filter - if you can find one!

As an alternative, you can buy aftermarket replacements for the bypass filter which use a replica filter casing with a modern spin on filter mounted inside; although this still leaves you not filtering the oil fully.

However, RAF vehicles had a modern style full flow filter fitted in line with the oil flow, low down at the front right hand side of the block; and K9 engines are all equipped to take the full flow filter - Army vehicles just have the fitting blanked off. If you can find a full flow filter and housing you can unblank this and fit the full flow filter.

If you are going to go to the trouble of making up and fitting a remote spin-on filter and housing, you might as well make sure you're filtering the oil fully. You could easily make up a take-off plate to fit where the full-flow filter should go and pipe that to your remote filter, giving yourself an easily replaceable full flow filter.

Colin, what filter unit do you have on at the moment? Is it mounted up by the distributor on a bracket with a large and small pipe going to it?

Just putting a list together of all the parts unearthed so far. Anyone want a copy, let me know by PM. Mostly commercial and military, 1940s to 1970s. All sorts of odds & ends new and used.

Cue Kermit: 'It's not easy, being green...'

Was that intentional? Lot more difficult to read...

Well, I'll agree or disagree with both of you!

I don't think there's an issue with using 20W50 just on the basis of grade. There might be an issue with using a high dispersancy oil designed for more modern engines in an older engine with a bypass filter. How much any of this matters in a low, light use vehicle run mainly in the summer is moot.

The original specification for the Austin K9 is monograde SAE 30 (or OMD 110 in Army speak), and you'll need (at least) two gallons.

If you're using SAE 30, I've never had any trouble with Morris' Golden Film oils for classics.

Bryan, I think it entirely depends on the aperture and seal combination. Some seals are an H shape, some a zig-zag so the panel flange and glass effectively overlap, some seals are thicker than others, and so on. I'm happy to be corrected, but I'm not aware of any hard and fast rule that would cover all eventualities apart from measure twice, cut once!

Jack - outstanding. Great job.

Steve, is the issue that paints are not consistent between makers and batches, or is it getting a match to the existing paint on the vehicle?

If the latter, the answer might be to get them to match to the vehicle rather than mix to the colour code. There are any number of reasons why paint may not match an existing finish, many of which are outside the paint mixer's control.

Axle for the 1 ton single axle Brockhouse type trailer. Complete, no brakes, hubs and drums off but present.

Free to a good home if it's any use to anyone, otherwise it goes in the scrap. It's in Dorset.

Past parts get mentioned a lot on here. While I've no doubt they do a good job, and if they reline with stainless that might be an improvement over a cylinder which is prone to rust, from what I've seen they are very expensive, and the machining and re-lining process is not without risk. Personally I wouldn't default to using them without investigating other options, particularly if tight for money. That's my preference though, your view might be different.

Would a bit of heat help with the wheelnuts, or can you borrow a better impact gun?

Tamber, I've looked through my RL parts catalogues and I'm afraid I can't find a part number that I can reliably say is for your master cylinder.

However, I do have a spare complete assembly (used), master cylinder and air pressure servo; might be some use if you're stuck for parts.

I've got one, get in touch via PM.

This is without doubt a Clayton air pressure servo and the numbers are good Clayton numbers.

There should be no issue with getting replacement parts if needed; these units, or similar ones, were used on most Bedford trucks and coaches of the period with air pressure hydraulic brakes.

Tamber, you should clean and examine the brake master and slave cylinder walls carefully for pitting. It's my experience that cylinder failure on Bedfords that have sat around is typically due to corrosion of the cylinder walls rather than wear to the seals; though obviously you would replace seals while it's all apart.

RL brake parts are not difficult to get; they are also common to many other Bedfords. They did change over the years though, so you need to get the right one. Bernie Smith may well be able to help at a sensible price.

http://www.vintagevehiclespares.com/

Clutch plate failure could cause the lack of drive, though that wouldn't explain the slack release fork.

I had a failure with similar symptoms (no drive, light clicking) when the hub sheared out of a clutch plate. In that case it turned out that the crank thrust bearings had failed, resulting in the crank moving as the clutch was disengaged causing an axial load on the clutch plate. The crank thrust bearing failure was not obvious, and I only realised the root cause when I came to refit the clutch and the crank slid forward as I fitted the clutch cover.

I suppose one could suggest a clutch fork or release bearing failure that might jam the clutch in the disengaged position. Is the fork end captive in the release bearing or is it free to move if the release bearing is jammed forwards?

Yes I realise that but Pikey Pete's spec listed 11.00x20 twins. Should the fronts not have been 9.00x20 as well like the recoveries?

Others might not have known though. Yes, they should be 9.00 x 20 all round just like the recoveries.

The Royal Navy had some RS wreckers, seem to think they were Holmes type.

They did, though although they were Holmes style, I think they were built by Reynolds-Boughton. There is at least one in preservation, but I haven't seen it for a long time. I must admit I've always wanted one, but never seen one for sale.

I note it is not a military type cab as it does not have the large removable panel to access the FV type air cleaner.

Yes, Richard did comment it was a civvy cab. That's what made me wonder whether it was Home Office, MoS or similar rather than military. Of course, that assumes it's the original cab.

8 stud rear axle suggesting it had 9.00x20 twins at some point. Cannot make out the front hubs.

The RS tippers ran 9.00 x 20 twins.

Sean, the old box truck was disiel from the start.

Yes, sorry Tony, I wasn't clear - I was meaning that other trucks or this timber tractor may have been converted later, not the one you were talking about.

Paul, I'm going to argue with you about the head skim.

I know a lot of people have heads skimmed automatically when they're doing a head gasket (particularly on modern aluminium heads), but I've never understood the reasoning behind it. If the head is straight / flat and serviceable it seems to me you achieve little, waste money and risk introducing faults by having it skimmed.

Obviously if the head is warped or the face damaged or corroded then yes, by all means skim, but make sure the procedure will rectify the fault.

While you're checking the head, make sure the manifold mating faces are straight and not burnt.

Are the bores etc. on this thing all clean, and how high was the water level in the sump? Has the gasket just gone, or has it been sitting with water in it? Just wondering if it's worth stripping the whole engine just to make sure all is OK...

Mike has it right, the S just denotes the short wheelbase chassis; but Dave's spec is also relevant in that most of the RSs supplied to the military were tippers, powered by the 300 petrol engine.

Bedford did offer a diesel option for the R type, which was originally the Perkins R6 (when Bedford didn't have their own diesel) but later the Bedford 300 and then 330 diesel. No doubt some vehicles may well have been supplied for special purposes with a diesel, like Tony's example, (or perhaps converted) but I'm sure the vast majority were petrol.

Odd that this one has a civvy cab but signs of Government (if not military) use. Wonder if it's ex-Home Office or MoS supplied to some outfit like MVEE or RAE?

Which Perkins is in it? If it's a P6, 6.354 or a four cylinder, it will certainly be a later fitment.

Kjell, just get the seat re-trimmed. Any half decent vehicle upholsterer should be able to do it. It would probably be a lot easier than the slim chance of being able to find a good condition original.

 

it also lists 29 different variations of K9, which i think is a suprisingly high number.

 

PT

That could be about right with all the different body types.

John, have a look at the information about vehicle markings in Clive's Corner. '50s markings would have been very simple.

Hi Peter, I'm not sure if messages are reaching you. The tyre is out ready if you still want it - let me know.

Sean

...Valve block is full of carp...

Sounds a bit fishy to me...

:red: