Sean N

Originaly was the engine sky blue.

Radek, from the photo that looks as though the original colour for that engine was deep bronze green or mid bronze green.

The MOWOG green Ian refers to is mid bronze green.

Ingenious. Wonder how well cooked the potato was when they reached their destination.

ISTR the approved REME recovery manual method for condenser replacement was two baked bean cans (or equivalent) with a piece of paper between.

Cross-posted here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?51521-TWO-got-killed-by-firing-an-WWII-tank

John, I appreciate you have facilities and help there, but the work you have accomplished on such a mammoth and complex vehicle in such a short space of time is extraordinary (and makes me feel as though I'm very much slacking!).

What is happening after Bordon, I'm out of touch - everything going to Lyneham?

Chance anyone with knowledge / parts lists could confirm some fitments for me?

RE3043 / FV141449 Valve, exhaust - I have this as Rolls-Royce B40/B60/B80 and 4.25 litre civilian Rolls-Royce engine (1946 - 1955)

EB3853 / FV141322 Valve, inlet - I have this as Rolls-Royce B40/B60/B80 and 4.25 litre civilian Rolls-Royce engine (1946 - 1955)

Rover 246346 Piston - I have this as Rover 60 and Landrover Series 1 2 litre petrol BUT there seem to be a lot of different pistons for these engines and some confusion over fitment - I have it variously listed as 1952 - 1955, 1954 - 1955, and 1954 - 1959. Not sure whether this reflects parts list publication dates or genuine confusion.

Anyone confirm, particularly for the latter? Thanks.

The article is very specific in saying it was a 1945 vehicle refurbished in 2005, which sounds too specific to be just newspaper speculation.

Radek, first three photos look like mid bronze green (also known as BMC green). Fourth photo looks like eau-de-nil. Fifth photo, it's a bit dark to tell in that engine bay! Could be black?

I don't recall having seen a russet brown engine, but my experience is by no means definitive.

I do think eau-de-nil went on a lot later than is generally said, just based on what I've seen - pretty much every '50s vehicle I can think of having seen, including those that were still being cast in the '90s, had eau-de-nil engines (except those which still had OEM engines), whereas sky blue seemed to be much more '60s on - I associate it with Landrover and tank engines, for some reason.

I would not like to swear to wartime engine colour but black seems likely, I don't know why.

Didn't even see Radek's question.

Wally, cat, pigeons, worms, can.

Didn't we decide in the K9 topic that they stuck with eau-de-nil until well into the '50s at least?

If Radek's truck is WW2 (which it is), were Austin engines green or black then?

Another vote for shepherd's hut - and good money in good condition, but that's a long way from good condition...

The $35k US example you posted is probably not a good price guide as if you look at the photos closely it has evidently not been restored, just tarted up and blown over. This may have been done as a museum exhibit or it may have been done for sale. Either way, it isn't as good as it appears at first glance and it's in the US; it's likely Axis vehicles would fetch more over there than in Europe as they'll be less common.

In any case, you can't assume a general restored value from one or two examples.

To be honest, I can't help feeling the value of something like this is likely to be 'what you can get for it', which may be a lot or a little depending on who's in the market.

You probably should not reckon on making a fortune on it, or buy it with the sole aim of doing so; there are very few vehicles that repay their restoration costs and turn a profit.

Really, when valuing vehicles, there are a few ways

- what will it make restored, less the restoration cost (difficult to know as not enough are sold);

- what is the open market or book value (see above);

- what is it worth in scrap or in breaking value;

- what is it worth to you;

- what does the seller want.

If several of these tally, you know you're about right. If you have no idea about any of them, it comes down to how much you want it! If you do really want it and are interested for more than a quick profit then the answer to what it is worth is how much can you reasonably afford to pay for it without stretching yourself.

There's a gun tank at Bovvy in good order, but I don't know if it's in running order.

Mark, you could just sound him out as to what he'd like to get for it, and see if that tallies with your thinking. With all the missing panels etc. there's a lot of quite expensive work needed though.

Are these dates right? Saturday and Sunday are 26th / 27th.

A few from last Tuesday, since no-one else has:

Didn't see Mr Beckett there - can't understand why, it's not as if the crowds were particularly large...

One thing that did jar slightly - where was all the British soft skin? Seeing the pilots being transported in Jeeps and Dodge WCs with wire cutters, invasion stars and drivers with American uniforms didn't strike the right note - it would have been great to see some Bedfords, Ford WOTs, Austins and maybe an AEC.

If you follow the RLC Museum's Facebook feed, their DUKW has already arrived and has been displayed!

 

 

 

 

Is that really their entire collection in the second photo?

Can't help feeling what's happened to the Beverley collection, and the (lack of) effort behind building a worthy collection of the military's transport history, is pretty scandalous, particularly when compared with, say, the RAF or Tank museums, of even the RE and REME efforts.

The DUKW in the Mirror article doesn't appear to be the same one as the stripped one in the auction images.

Great resource for pre-war and obscure stuff. Odd that he's scanned and published drawings of many carbs, but not the keys to the drawings which you'd have thought must have been with them. Good work though.

Howard, I have a NOS Carter carb.

Richard, I'm working from memory but isn't the CA45 the 'barrel' type starter with the solenoid in line with the main body of the starter and the terminals at the mounting flange end?

The starter pictured does look like an M45G and I've come across both types on 200 / 220 / 300 / 330 - in fact, I have a 220 Turbo with an M45G on at the workshop.

Both Richard and fv102 speak wisdom, though, the numbers will be stamped on the body when you remove it. You should be able to buy a replacement solenoid fairly easily, and get the starter rebuilt if needs be (probably cheaper than buying new). If there's no-one local there are sources online.

Richard, thanks for chipping in. I don't have the relevant parts list and have limited experience with the Series 1 engine, but it looks as though it must be different in detail to the Series 2. It's likely the 1 ton reference is to the Series 2 / K9.

Asbjørn, on those pumps with a long lever you sometimes have to fit them at an angle to get the lever in through the hole, and if you're not careful the lever can conflict with the cam, though in my experience you can usually feel if it's trying to go round the wrong side.

Asbjørn, I'm not sure if the K6 and K9 pumps are the same; however, I had a look at a K9 pump this morning. If it helps, the tag number on the K9 pump is XP 1111 D5 and the arm is 7850059. The pump body (AC type U) is correct.

It's difficult to compare the two pumps without having them next to each other. However, I'd say the lever on the K9 pump is slightly shorter and more curved than the one you have. That of course is not definitive as I can't recall the engine differences and it would depend whether the block casting / machining and camshaft are the same for the later (Series 2) engine.

It seems to me there is something odd about the way yours has broken. For yours to have broken the way it has, the cam would have to be the wrong side of the pump operating lever to exert a downwards force on the lever. In that case, there should be a witness / polish mark on the tip / inside face of the lever (which actually, I fancy I can see in the photo?), and no fresh polishing on the normal running face. That might confirm it was the wrong lever.

Or strictly speaking, "I might be stupid..."

Just been told about an RS with an Edbro tipping body that might be for sale soon. It's ex-round timber so it'll probably be a bit battered and non-original, but was supposed to have been a good truck. More when I know it.

Should have laid, or have laid? If the weather is as it has been the last two weeks they'll need it.