SirLanceUK

HI All.

Well I cut the pipe off in the gearbox bay. I drained the oil down and found that it was black and lumpy and also 4 litres short off the required amount.

So I cleaned and refilled the gearbox with the correct amount and made a dipstick and was able to put the markings on... Should be in the correct place now

If I could buy humble pie I would.

This morning I was out playing, had a road wheel to change. So I thought I did say I would have another go now I have seen some pictures at adjusting the idle speed..

Thankfully I did listen to you all as I lay down on the deck with my hand following the throttle links I found the idle screw. half a turn later, engine warmed up and idle now set to 650 RPM and is holding steady.

Thank you all

Oh and the road wheel was changed as well

4 hours ago, Ian L said:

You quite obviously have quite a rare vehicle and deep pockets if you can afford to have it transported to the show,  I personally drive my 1944 Ausrin 135 miles to the show costing me arround £125 each way and its smiles per mile all the way.

I wish I had deep pockets, but at 4.5 miles to the gallon and a top permissible speed of 20 mph it costs me around £400 in petrol and of course the wear of the tracks on roads could add a couple of grand... maybe it will end up as a 4 wheel show

6 hours ago, Ian L said:

 

And £400 to put my vehicle on the back of a low loader. 

Firstly thank you chaps for the your information, none of it is wasted and is making its way into information sheets for when my spartan "Oddball" ( I am sure that really is my nickname) goes to the various local shows. She looks so good amongst the rovers. But I was told their is a sappers facebook page which if you are not members of you might wish to join.

On 9/17/2019 at 5:39 PM, Tony P said:

Hi I was part of 25 Field Squadron from March 85 through to April 1990. Originally I joined 23 Engineer Regt (25 Squadron) when they were based in Osnabruk. The whole squadron moved to Iserlohn in 1986 to become part of 26 Engineer Regt. 

The emblem if I remember correctly does come from the boxer rebellion but I only heard that off the old sweats at that time. 

We did of course run CVRT Spartans at that time. I think we had two per troop (SSgt and Reece Sgt) used them. Spent many an hour in one of them. I do remember an incident when there was an engine fire on one of them. The driver did get badly scorched but recovered well.

Tony, thanks for the information. I did find the driver and his instructor. The instructor happened t be down with an old officer of mine so we meet for a beer. It was him that connected me to the driver, who has s coming over for a reunion.. somewhat delayed as he can’t drive at the minute 

I have had great fun and frustration working on this beast, but everywhere we go it is well received 

Just now, Ronsandt said:

Yes but when motor is off it should shift . It’s hitting solid no give. Just 2 week ago it was so smooth. Well she’ll get run this week maybe it will loosen something up.ill let ya know sat night when we get home. 

I hope the gremlins have gone and it goes well and you have a great day

Look forward to hearing how it goes

57 minutes ago, sirhc said:

When changing from forward to reverse you need to pull the lever smoothly and firmly. If you are slow or hesitate and it drops into neutral you won’t be able to get it engaged again without a lot of grinding or stopping the engine. 

The clutch on the petrol engages at 800rpm so you will want the idle speed set lower than this.

Thanks for the tip, the idle is too slow at the moment, and needs adjusting up to 600-650. I just noticed that at 800 in changed without effort.

however the tip about one smooth action and once in neutral to stop the engine is very useful 

Has me wondering what other tips could be passed on 

Very interested in this. My Spartan can be a cow to change over. I did find that it was the engine revs at around 800 made it easier to change. But then on Saturday I had to turn the engine off to swap over. I have just done an oil change and put 15w40 in and 11.3 litres.

I have been told by a Scorp owner he cant swap over with the engine running at all so I thought this was a "general" problem

7 hours ago, Grasshopper said:

Not a very good picture, but this shows the location of the idle screw when mounted to an engine:

Thank you it is a great help and clearly shows the screw I need to play with 

1 hour ago, terryb said:

Petrol engined bulkheads have fibreglass based insulation. Honestly, cutting holes is uneccessary, removing the top deck is not required, but it is easier to lift off the two engine grills.

setting carb procedure

1. set both mixture screws 1 1/4 turns open from closed (these are on the front base of the carb facing forward) and are protruding slotted brass screws that will turn with very little resistance

2.locate the idle speed screw-this is hard to find-its on the side of the carb nearest the firewall. If you get someone to work the throttle and look at the back of the carb next to the firewall you will see a hexagonal screw head with a slot in onthe moving linkage' find it now before...

3,warm the engine and  turn the idle speed screw to get the lowest smooth idle

4now, one at a time, adjust one mixture screw in or out to get the highest tickover speed. You may need to wind down the idle speed a few times

5. once you have done both mixture screws, and have a smooth low idle, set tickover to 650 rpm

done!

 

Thank you for instructions, I will try anew before getting the drill out.

4 hours ago, Diana and Jackie said:

The integrity of the bulkhead (drivers wall) is essential for your safety. It's a firewall to stop fire, fumes and fuel getting to the driver and occupants and killing them.

Both the throttle idle screw and mixture screws can be reached without removing the decking or drivers wall. It requires a little dexterity and knowledge of where the adjustments are located.

 

I did say hatches, any whole would have a metal door with heat shield material on it to maintain the integrity of the fire wall. I am not highly dexterous and have limited knowledge where the adjustments are located... but I will have another go with a mirror and screwdriver again before I resort to cutting 

That is why I thought of putting in a couple of "hatches" (holes) in the bulkhead to give me access to the carb and the oil filter. Which is why I asked what the existing heat shield was made of

Or are you saying that if I take the seat out I can get the bulkhead out without removing the deck

8 hours ago, Grasshopper said:

I've managed to adjust ours through the engine hatches before now, it's not too difficult. 

Hi,

I had a look with the aid of some pictures and could not even begin to see the screw indicated on the pictures, 

It appears to be under the air intake and next to the fire wall. Is it worth another go

The picture was taken while the decks were off, before I took delivery

9 hours ago, Grasshopper said:

i stripped and rebuilt a Striker cupola bearing - there really are A LOT of bearing rollers in there! I needed to get a bit creative and find a mechanised method of cleaning up the rollers as doing each one individually was not really viable - I found the most effective way was dumping all the rollers in a bucket of diesel with a handful of sand and stirring the whole lot with a paint stirrer attached to  drill. After about twenty minutes most of the rust was removed from them, then I washed them all and carefully re-assembled the bearing. 

As you have done this before I hope you don't mind if I get stuck I ask you for help 

I have an issue with the idle speed on my Spartan petrol engine. Talking to people who know I find I have to adjust the idle screw which of course is the wrong side of life.

There are a couple of options

1 lift the deck that should give me access, but of course I have to adjust the screw, put back the deck back, run the engine till hot and see if I got it right, it not lift the deck again and make another adjustment and so on

2 cut a hole on the heat shield  between the driver and the engine large enough to see and get tools in. Issue I would have to make a plug to replace the heat shielding I remove

(not really an issue) but what is the existing heat shield made of, could it be asbestos (not something I really want to be cutting and creating dust).

So can anyone confirm what the heat shield is made of or suggest another way to get at the idle adjustment screw?

Cheers 

1 minute ago, sirhc said:

If you take it to bits you should be able to strip it and grease the bearings. 

That's good news, I was slightly concerned when you said it was a replacement part

Can you please send/ confirm to me the part number if you have it. and shame as it shows the ball bearings as different items, so raised my hopes that I might be able to do something

Sorry I reposted your picture and not the picture from my copy of the ISPL

cupola.pdf

1 minute ago, sirhc said:

Lance,

do you have the Spartan ISPL?

https://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/cvrt-spartan-illustrated-parts-list-209-p.asp

You might find it useful..

Chris

Thanks for that, believe it or not I have a document claiming to be that document but from Jul 05 but it does not display items 3 or 4 as the ball bearings its 3 and 4 are bearing rings but funny enough the diagram is on the same page....

On ‎9‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 4:30 AM, Tony B said:

I was recently recommended a home made brew of 50/50 parrafin and ATF. Works a teat.

"ATF"?

Hi,

As many of you will know I am in the process of rebuilding a CVRT Spartan. One of the features about the Spartan is the commanders Cupola. Like many that have sat around for years in all weathers my Cupola does not move. I have stripped down the winding mechanism and that is working correctly, took a great deal of blood sweat and tears but was little and easily fitted on my workbench. 

So the Cupola does not move, all the brakes have been removed so I am guessing water has got in and rust has seized the bearings. I have been through all the drawings I can find and nothing tells me how it works or is detailed enough to show my were the bearings are.

So how can the forum help... Does anyone know where I can get "detailed" drawings from or if there is a video somewhere showing how it should work, or even show me one working

in anticipation of your help

Lance

Hi Kevin,

I only got into Armour in December last year. I went around and around about what I should get. This however changed in December when a Spartan found me. I have had so much frustration and joy since then that I can thoroughly recommend it. My wife would thoroughly recommend it to as I spend quite a bit of time playing with my baby and not getting under her feet.

I look forward to hearing what happens and which way you jump

Thanks chaps I will get some today

I know this has been asked many times and there is a post of a very simalar name that lists 3 pdf files that have been written on this subject, however when I selected the links it did not give me the PDF files but gave me the same screen redisplayed.

I checked the download section and they were not there either.

Does anyone have a copy or have links to the documents?

"This has been covered many times before. Clive has prepared some excellent documentation on the subject:

http://hmvf.co.uk/pdf/PAINTINGpart1.pdf

http://hmvf.co.uk/pdf/PAINTINGpart2.pdf

http://hmvf.co.uk/pdf/PAINTINGpart3.pdf

"

From the previous post

I have attached a picture of my Spartan in case anyone just wants to name that shade.

Cheers

SirLance