fv1609

Lee. Just found this I don't normally look in the weapons section. Sorry to disappoint you but I haven't the foggiest. So spill the beans then.

If you send me a SAE I can test your condensers. Or it might be easier just to buy another 0.2 mfd one eg from a series 2 or 3 Land Rover, bend the lug & it will fit in. There are degrees of condenser failing. A condenser may leak only a bit & hold a charge for a short while & not have been in this state long enough to show pitting than can be noticed. The limitations will be shown when you are trying to get max performance from the engine.

Check your plugs are they all sooted up? New plugs they may be, but plugs easily soot up especially RSN13P, Rover ones RSN12Y seem less prone to this. I never use the choke I have disconnected it. Just two pumps with accelerator (hand prime if not used the engine for a day or so). Foot off & keep it off, then start up til it fires. Keep foot off for a good half minute, then away you go.

Now I do have electronic ignition, but this is the starting procedure advocated for pigs in NI, which obviously had the original ignition.

I recently saw a rotor arm them was recently supplied. It was the cleanest, shiniest & nicest rotor arm I had ever seen. But measuring the leakage from the end to chassis there was a leakage due to a resistance of 100megohms. Now a tatty secondhand one on a stall nearby had double the resistance ie half the leakage. Now why was that?

I tested my two spares I had with me, they were better still but still leaked. I tested the one on my vehicle & that was nearly infinitely ie a near "perfect" resistance.

Now this leakage can be measured from the ht electrode of the arm to the distributor shaft, but it virtually the same as the leakage to the overspeed earthing collar. So the rotor arms can be tested not necessarily in situ but just by themselves. Removing the earthing pin where it contacts the shaft makes virtually no difference to the electrode to shaft leakage.

My theory is that moisture is the problem. I doubt that the lovely NOS condenser has been stored in a heated & moisture controlled environment. But the old one on the stall had been baking in the sun.

I found another rotor arm in my workshop which is a bit damp. Similar reading to the NOS one. Put it in the sun after an hour the resistance had doubled. After another 2 hours it had doubled again.

Whether this leakage in not recently used rotor arms is significant, I do not know. But it certainly won't help. Off hand the figures I quoted are comparative, I can't quite recall the calibration of the megger, figures may be 10 or 100 times greater. These readings could not be detected on 250/500v meggers. It was only using a 1000v megger that this showed up.

Anyone had similar suspicions or experiences of damp rotor arms?

Just seemed odd that although as a MVT group it doesn't appear on even MVT listings.

I wanted to make sure this pleasant event got a bit of publicity!

I was told that you can release the barrel by dismantling the whole switchboard unit & going in from the back of the barrel.

I will need to dismantle mine as have a barrel fitted but no key. I suppose the advantage I have over yours Fred is that the barrel must be bust as I can turn the switch without the key :-(

Fred. I think it works in an unexpected way. Normally you put a key in then turn the key. But I have got a feeling that with this mechanism you put the key in, which doesn't turn, but it allows the previously locked ignition switch (through which the barrel goes) to then turn.

Sue. Given that Jerry has got it so wrong with banana, he might have got it wrong about the show :roll:

I'm wavering it's over 60 miles. I'm pigging it to Yeovil, Kemble & Ardingly so it has to be a known biggish event to exceed the 50 mile rule of thumb.

I suppose I could come in the Wolf + cipher trailer. But I don't regard the Wolf as being terribly exciting & all I get at shows are endless silly questions asking if it is a real one, given that there are Land Rovers out there (even once civilian ones!) that have had all the accessories bolted on to make it look like a Wolf :shake:

Although this MV show is poorly advertised & not in the MVT listings (although it is a MVT group) or on MILWEB. I have no connection with the show but went last year on the basis that it was just under my 50 mile limit for the pig.

I must say that I thought it was a very pleasant show with a nice range of vehicles & fairly sensible MOP attending. Everyone helpful & keen to make it a success. Held on playing fields with a good firework display on the saturday & a car boot on the sunday.

So I would recommend this event & have just sent off the entry form.

http://www.sussexmvt.co.uk/fish2007.html

Wessex MVT Show 17 June at Haselbury on A30 between Yeovil & Crewkerne.

Is it a very big event? Many stalls? I have to judge distance/mpg with the size of the event. The further I have to travel the bigger has to be the event to make it worthwhile.

The show is just on the 17th but it is a road run the day before. With my mpg I don't bother with these as getting to an event is my road run!

So anyone been before? Was it worth it?

Might be worth asking on this Canadian site:

http://www.mapleleafup.org/

Richard. That's what I wanted to hear. We bought a large one for wallpaper stripping & cleaning around the house. It got fired up once but was a big fiddle to get set up & never got used, like so many "good ideas" one sees advertised. I'll get one of the little ones, should be less messy than degreasant which goes everywhere especially when under the vehicle it runs down your sleeves & I end up rolling in it.

Mark, when you put your lights on did they light up to normal brilliance or were they dim? If you had some sort of shorting out of the lighting, then you would have reduced voltage for the ignition. In addition the drain on the system would mean an incresed torque on the generator, so there would be more work for the engine to turn at a time when it had a reduced HT.

When lacking the rmmh rmmh did you try switching to the other tank in case there was a semi blockage.

These steam cleaners being advertised on the tele. Are they any good for cleaning small items like carbs, or degreasing under gearboxes etc.?

Anyone any experience of them?

http://www.robertdyas.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=311&storeId=91&productId=13416&langId=-1&cache_entry=-1&parent_category_rn=&parents_parent_category_rn=&top_category_rn=&showSubCategory=&top=Y&fromPage=SearchResults

http://www.robertdyas.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=311&storeId=91&productId=29109&langId=-1&cache_entry=-1&parent_category_rn=&parents_parent_category_rn=&top_category_rn=&showSubCategory=&top=Y&fromPage=SearchResults

And whatever you do never do it in the dark, especially if you have been drinking, which of course is a Catch 22.

Great Dorset Steam Fair used to have the plastic gutters, now they have plastic modules in clusters facing inwards. So that you are face to face with another row of chaps looking at you as you p*** facing each other.

Usually the ground is uneven. Never go to the facility that is lower than the others in the event that it is blocked with fag ends etc. One year I chose a lower facility & realised that my trousers were getting a soaking but as I hadn't started my activities. It was alarming to realise that I had not wet myself, which is unpleasant enough, but I had been subjected to a communual contribution in my shoes & trousers.

I waddled back to the tent threw away all the clothing below the waist, attempted an improvised shower from a jerrican & that rather spoilt my evening.

I always take a torch now but that can look as if I am trying to attract

attention :oops:

MOD contract number H1/8010/99224/5479

George, that isn't actually the contract number, it is the part number.

H1 is the Domestic Management Code for Paints, Dopes & Varnishes

8010/99224/5479 is the NSN (NATO Stock Number)

Anyway the db isn't a great help but looked it up in a paper COSA & it lists it as a petrol resisting paint, which seems appropriate given its use on jerricans. I don't know, but there may be issues that complicate the use of thinners, at least the mechanical approach with calcium carbonate powder would get round that.

George

If you look on this this thread you will see I have been wrestling with a similar problem:

http://historicmilitaryvehicles.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=38&topic=3774.0

Well if you type in "calcium carbonate powder" in ebay you may find some as I did, but you may be a bit surprised to see that it is major component of a hair removing product which I will not detail here, you will find some of the adverts show before & after pics, which seems a little unnecessary.

Anyway I have mixed my paint & got a good colour. But I regret trying to spray it. The pressure changes influence how the powder is dispersed & there is a tendency at the start of spray for it to be satin/glossy whereas when on a sweep after a few seconds it dries to matt. Sometimes the particles seem to conglomerate & the finish is rough & bumpy. I think a roller would have been better for me.

But don't use French chalk, that is just talc & will just make the paint thicker.

I will look up the NSN of your paint tomorrow when I can get to my database.

Clive,It makes you easier to find in a crowd as well....like a certain parts dealer who alternates with a bowler or top hat ;-)

Well it has already had an airing this year. First day of Overlord was so hot it got drawn from stores. You get the usual comments of course "Gosh, I say Carruthers, natives all quiet on the frontier?" etc

But as the weather changed just slightly I resorted to an Army Air Corps all-in-one wooly pully trouser-suit then Gortex this & that, topped by a NBC waterproof shroud. I do think Paul has a picture, but how he knew it was me, I just don't understand. :dunno:

Fascinating stuff, the Cuckoo motor was not that dissimilar from Woodpecker that powered Orange William.

(OW is the avatar on the left & FV1620 was originally designed to fire OW rather than Malkara)

ADP = Automated Data Processing. CON I assume was the date it was confirmed as being entered into the system, which could be up to several weeks after it was received in the depot.

The ADP was VESPER (Vehicles, Equipment, Spares, Provision, Economics, Repair). In 1983 SALOME was introduced (System for Accounting & On-Line Management of Equipment). Vehicle depots were equipped with ME29 computers with the main frame at Bicester.

Further changes took place in 2005 with the introduction of JAMES (Joint Asset Management & Engineering Solution).

JAMES acts to:

Store equipment documents, details of use, servicing, inspections, faults etc

Allocate equipment daily & future commitments

Forecast inspection & servicing requirements

Allow tracking of equipment & where it is needed

Hold records of driving & specialist qualifications.

That was JAMES 1, then this year was set to introduce JAMES 2 which added:

RN & RAF vehicles

Deployable system into the field

Engineering function to manage repairs & mods

Linking with other systems, including supply chain

Lots of vehicles, lots of people, lots of traders, lots of sunshine & no rain, well not very much rain really.

I think it was as a result of the Defence White Paper of 1975 to introduce a "One Army Concept" this was implemented in stages for the various unit & regiments during 1977. This was so that the TAVR were seen to be more integrated. At this stage small white ID appeared on the wing eg SOW/123 or SE/345 etc.

The other point is that the fancy badges etc gave away the operational activities of various units that could of use to an enemy. These prohibitions are now enshrined in the Joint Service Road Transport Regulations JSP341.

However some units to this day defy the Regulations, Scottish units quite proudly display the Cross of St Andrew on their vehicles in war zones. Although I can well understand the justifiable pride associated with these markings I would have thought from an intelligence gathering point of view they were counter productive.

No.2 Take a padlock, for your own bog.

 

There is nothing worse, than finding someone else has been filling it, while you've gone walkabout

 

I didn't actually mean a blue thunderbox, I meant a 'Portapotti' device. It can be tucked away in the corner of a tent or vehicle for one to one use as the need arises. Even a blue box requires going out into the cold night air with all the hazards that Richard describes. When refurbishing the pig I increased the seat height by 1/2 inch to accomodate such a device.

Paul. It sounds either like a fault on the temperature sender or its leads. If the thing goes open circuit it reads max temp. Get an ohmeter & the sensor should read something like 200 ohms when cold.

Or you have a fault on the thermostat. Maybe take the thermostat out & see whether it still overheats.

Ok chaps.

 

Serious question for you.......

 

I am just doing some R&D and would like to know what bit of kit you need when you are out at show or camping but you have never been able to find. What piece of kit would make your life easier or would make it more enjoyable for the family....here are just a few suggestions;

 

A portable shower?

Something decent in the kitchen area of your tent?

Decent lighting?

Portable kitchen/stoves?

Etc etc.

 

Just anything that you have thought would make your life easier.

 

Many thanks

 

Jack.

 

 

No.1 Take your own bog.

I have now got acess to my records, although I suspect this isn't going to help!

5180-17-707-0411 Item name: GEREDSHAPSUITRUST

Name of manufacturer or government defence dept: DMKLAFDELING MANOEUVRE MATERIEL

5180-17-660-1303 Item name: GEREDSHAPSUITRUST

Name of manufacturer or government defence dept: MINISTRIE VAN DEFENSE 0030 KONINK LYY

Didn't help, did it?

I currently don't have access to my database but the NSN structure I can identify reveals:

5180 sets, kits of hand tools

17 Netherlands