fv1609

Hi Clive , did you go ?

Dad and Roy went down sat am in a jeep , said they had a good time , yes it rained most of the day. Dad just called some W.O. and went along , no entrey form was sent,

steve

 

No I didn't bother. Its a fair distance from Salisbury in the pig, well the distance is the same whatever vehicle! But it is a more serious economics decision. I didn't want to chance it with a no pass, no entry approach given the security situation.

Yes I called the WO etc but given no indication that you could just turn up. I could have gone in the Wolf, but who would want to see a vehicle model that is currently in service?

Surprised nobody has asked you to do some pumping out!

What power bleeder will fit the Humber brake header/res?

 

As i didnt think any would come with a good fitting for the Pig?

 

Don't bother with fancy bleeding kits etc

Get a bicycle inner tube.

Cut it into two leaving 6-8 inches near the valve.

Tie a knot in the end near the valve.

Fill up your resevoir.

Stretch the other end of the tube over the resevoir rim.

Although it is a tight fit you must clamp it on with a jubilee clip.

Pump air into the tube so it is approaching double its diameter.

Then start bleeding until there is no air coming through the bleed tube. Do it in sequence starting with the servo & front pipes working to the furthest away to last.

After each component bleed. Release the air in tube. Top up resevoir & pump up again. If you don't use a jubilee clip when pressurised you will blow brake fluid all over the place.

Do you need another brake cylinder shell or is that one you got at Overlord ok?

The camouflage pattern applied is Dispersed Pattern, not Disruptive pattern (and DPM is Dispersed Pattern Material, not Disruptive Pattern Material as popular misconcept has it, except on Dennison smocks).

 

Disruptive Pattern has sharp edges, usual acutely triangular or splinter. The effect is to break up the shape. Apart from Dennison smocks, it is most often seen i pictures of ships (in the Far East in WW" IIRC) where the sharply contrasting colours and angles prevent the eye from determining the shape of what it is seeing. Possibly the most violent Dispersed Pattern was on Fighter Command aircraft at the outbreak of WW2, where the left side of the underbelly was painted black and the right side white. To an observer on the ground, only one half of the aeroplane or the other (depending on the colour of the sky / clouds behind it) would be noticed, and because the eyes only saw half an aeroplane, the brain would not see an aeroplane.

 

Dispersed Pattern consists of swirls of colours (maybe five on a combat jacket) which blend the jacket into the background. The pattern is similar on vehicles but normally in the UK only using two colours (some countries use three or four) in the ratio 2/3 base - normally green - to 1/3 black. In winter, whitewash may be issued to be cover 1/2 the green to make it 1/3 green, 1/3 black, 1/3 white. In eight years in BAOR we got issued winter cam once (in January 1981).

 

Army Code No.60503

Materiel Regulations for the Army

Volume 2

Vehicles & Technical Equipment

Pamphlet No. 3

Painting of Army Vehicles, Aircraft & Equipment

Paragraph 105b

Annex B

December 1980

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/fv1620/DPM.jpg[/img]

As a plea! can anyone help with brakes and get me back on the the road?

 

I have to replace a wheel cylinder, bleed as well as hoses and get all good! and i have 2 days off in the week to do it?

 

But you can do it yourself, Paul.

Buy 4 brake hose clamps & shut down all the hoses.

If the pedal is not stiff then you have a problem up the servo/master cylinder end.

If the pedal is stiff you have a problem in a wheel cylinder(s). So release each hose in turn until the pedal goes soggy then you know where the culprit(s) is/are.

Do pressure bleeding, then you can do it all yourself without an assistant. Get on with it, 2 days is fine. In 2 days I have just removed the transfer box, serviced another & fitted it. :-D

If you want to create faded blotches. Certain paints will fade in contact with the insides of banana skins after 24 hours. I discovered that by accident. :-(

Spraying WD40 is often used to gloss up a vehicle, but you could utilise the downside. In that shortly afterwards this will become a magnet for general grim & gives a 'lived in' matt grubby finish.

Put on some gloves, grab some earth/mud & gently rub in from muliple directions rather than round & round, then wash off & see if it has aged enough.

Well after more than 3 weeks, 5 phone calls & speaking to various people. I have left my name, address & phone no 4 times but still no response. So I really can't be bothered to pursue it any more if that is the level of organisation

Not sure about that. Our Samaritans got the exact same treatment as the rest of our vehicles. Park the FHQ in a wood, cam everything up, disappear from view ... except that the ambulance catches the eye and draws attention and the whole FHQ is exposed. I was surprised to find that Samaritans came with roll-down blinds to cover the red crosses to aid camouflage.

 

I guess it depends on the ambulance's role, whether it is part of a tactical or a non-tactical unit.

 

Well yes obviously there is a time & a place for displaying red crosses, which is why many tactical ambulances have provision to mask these markings.

But I answered the question: "Does anyone know if the red cross would have been in gloss or matt, i would have thought matt?"

The requirements are laid down in AESP 0220-A-221-013 The Painting of Service Equipment, Table 1, Serial No.4.

The specified paints are:

White (brushing or spraying) high gloss

Red Signal BSC537 (brushing or spraying) high gloss

He also suggested just using exterior metal paint, ie car aerosol spray for the black.

Watch out car spray is cellulose & with time may bubble/flake off paint that is non-cellulose.

Does anyone know if the red cross would have been in gloss or matt, i would have thought matt?

Gloss. If it is gloss it will retain less mud & dust, thereby making it more visible, which is what you want so you can be identified as a medical vehicle.

Is the matt black special IR paint as well as the green ? :dunno:

 

Yes, but it has less IRR pigment as the green as otherwise under IR illumination it would look the same density as the green & would negate a disruptive pattern.

A 5 litre can of the stuff can be picked up often for as little as £10 because it is either not recognised for what it is or people are concerned about fading which is undeniable.

But the fading is the effect of sun & rain. But are you going to be keeping your vehicle permanently outside? If its garaged it will last for ages. Then you have the satisfaction of having the genuine stuff & paid less than the buying some non original stuff from B&Q or more expensively from a paint dealer.

30 Royal Logistics Corps Families Open Day, Princess Royal Barracks, Deepcut, Camberley, Surrey 30th June. You can arrive the day before to set up. I always enjoy an event at an establishment & taking pictures of MV & eqpt in service for the archives.

But has anyone had any success in getting an entry form? I have been trying for nearly 3 weeks. Several times I have left my address, left messages, left my phone no for people to ring back, but nuffink! Doesn't inspire confidence or have I just been unlucky?

In the last couple of years the HFs have really turned this rally around if you have a MV to display.

MVs used to be largely ignored & sent down the bottom far end of the fields out of the way, where people take their dogs to poo. Now we at the top of the fields by the entrance. This more prestigous position has kept the MVs together & generates a good amount of interest.

A couple of years ago I was at the point of crossing it off the rally list as not worth going but the HFs have pushed the MV cause with great success. Thanks. :-D

Hardyferret,

 

I think Clive is a little worried that your projected modifications could make your Pig faster than his :whistle:

No, not really. It won't be any faster by the time he has bolted on so many accesories & nick nacks it will be weighed down. ;-)

I know Clive will lynch me.......... :shake:

Well now that is an idea.

I think your first move is to fit the joley & remove the choke cable & review the situation. If your plugs don't stay nice & clean like those ones I blasted for you, then mess around with civy leads etc - if you must :roll:

Hi Clive, I've got some to test too if that's ok?

 

Hopefully see you there.

 

- Mike

 

Yes Mike, absolutely fine. For many years one of the "bees in my bonnet" has been the overconfidence people have in their condensers, especially NOS ones.

 

Clive will you be taking your megger for condenser testing? Chris

Oh yes. So anybody who wants their condensers testing please bring them along to Kemble, also rotor arms can be tested. No charge! I am happy to help but testing on a multimeter or ohmeter is no good it has to be a device like a megger.

http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/TESTINGCONDENSERSRW.pdf

The FV1609 prototype pig will be there on Thurs I hope.

The last time I took it I nearly died when the large butane cylinder caught fire inside - very frigthening.

When I took the other pig major engine problem when it was doing 20 mpg (of oil) not got round to sorting that one out yet.

Lets hope I can get there & back without serious incident.

Looks like it is "Condenser Man", off to check the stalls for EMER's and AESP's Sorry Clive

He's nothing to do with me!

He's a rather unconvincing impersonator who turned up once it started raining. I know some of the boys from Brighton were quite taken by the style of clothing, but I kept my distance & was hold up in the pig. He kept trying to get in the pig with me but I kept the doors firmly locked I don't know what he took me for!

If braking was uniform before & you have not adjusted the brakes since, but now it pulls to the left on braking. Then there must be air in a cylinder on the right, front most likley.

I would get 4 brake clamps, I know it is a bit of an indulgence, but it has so many times helped me pin down which cylinder(s) need attention.

I know you could perhaps get away with one clamp & in turn clamp each hose & see if there is an improvement in pedal firmness. But if more than one cylinder is at fault it makes diagnosis very difficult. 4 clamps really speeds up the diagnosis.

You're absolutely sure you assembled the master cylinder components correctly? Or did you instal it as a lump? Would have been worth checking all the little bits inside were all there & in the right place & moving as required. Anyway don't pull it apart unless you have excessive travel with all 4 hoses clamped off.

Paul. This is a Lockhead system & should be easier to set up than the awful Girling system in Rovers.

I always pressure bleed (as in the bicycle tube method) start with the servo (there are two points to bleed) & then work your way from nearest to farthest from master cylinder.

Slacken off all the brake adjusters before bleeding, so that the wheels are braked. Otherwise poorly adjusted cylinders may have too much travel & not give you the firm pedal feel you need at this stage. Once you are are in the position of foot down & 1.5 inches is as far as it can go, then you know the hydraulics are ok & any slack you subsequently get will be as a result of the brake adjusting procedure.

Remember that with the engine running the servo will of course allow you to apply more force when you depress the pedal. The stiffer the feel with the engine off (& the vacuum released after) is just that you will not able to apply so much force.

Have you any hose clamps? I carry 4 & fit one on each wheel hose. Then I should have a pretty firm feel to the brake pedal, if I don't I have a master cylinder or servo problem. (Remember I did offer you a brand new servo for a knockdown price, but you spent your money on guns & uniforms :roll:)

If it is ok & firm I release the other clamps in turn & retest the pedal. If the travel becomes excessive I know which wheel(s) to attend to.

That was 84mm

When I used Talc (=French Chalk, hydrated magnesium silicate) it didn't seem to alter the finish much, but made the paint thicker. As talc is largely used for absorbing perspiration, I assumed it was getting absorbed in the paint.

I used powdered chalk (calcium carbonate) & got a matt effect. If you do a search you will see it is used in paint manufacture to produce a matt effect. But hydrated magnesium silicate is not listed as used in paint manufacture. To get significant matt effect I think I used about 500gm in 10litres. But of the four paints I was mixing two were high gloss & two were matt already.

I don't think "paint manufacturers would lose a fortune" as when I inquired about matting agents from a paint supplier it was much more expensive than paint & I was advised I would need to have about 25% matting agent to have a useful effect.

My only regret was spraying it, as sometimes it clogged & sometimes the particles aggregated to form a very rough surface. Although most of it was smooth & matt, I would have been better off using a roller I think.

Just had a look again. Is it a form of LAW?

 

To have the engine running smooth, the distributor is turned almost all the way anti-clockwise against the bolts holding the distributor....so as advanced as it can go.

That's where mine ened up.

I would also take out the plugs & sandblast them clean. Although they are fairly new they could well have carboned up by now.