diesel1

On 11/8/2020 at 10:01 PM, SebBrady said:

Hey all, just as a bit of a post to gauge interest. I am currently weighing up the options of manufacturing new pads subject to testing them on a vehicle.

I have made the drawing in CAD and approached several companies. But before I take this idea any further who would actually be interested in this venture? This is purely so I can go to the company with numbers as to how many I would like to make. The more we get the cheaper it gets.

Currently I haven't made the final calculations but the prices seem to be between about the £11-15 a pad mark. Maybe if there's more it will be even cheaper.

Just show your support on here and if there is enough I will take this further.

Just to clarify this will be done at cost. Its just so we can keep them going on the roads longer and I am not going to be making any money

If you are interested please tell me how many you would want and then I can sit down and actually work out some estimates for how much this would cost. The more of us that want to do it the cheaper it gets. I can only work out the costs if someone tells me they are interested in numbers. Not "if the price is right" because I cant tell the manufacture a rough amount. 

So please tell me your thoughts and guesses and in a week or two I can do the actual maths for us all. 

Thanks 

I d be intrested in 180 pads, would vat be in the cost because I'd be able to claim this back.

Regards Andrew

I'm needing to move it, are there ok to be tow started without damaging anything internally ?

1 hour ago, andym said:

The batteries are a bit low, should be nearer 28V if fully charged.  However, if the battery volts aren't dropping noticeably when you operate the starter switch it sounds as though the starter motor isn't taking any significant current.  That would suggest a duff starter motor, but only 20V at the junction box worries me a bit.  It might be worth opening the DLB and checking the state of the starter relay in the lid.  It looks like a cobbled-on afterthought, mainly because it is!  (A modification to protect the starter switch from the higher solenoid current of the later type of starter motor).

Andy

Thanks Andy, 

Ive had the jump leads on from the sabre to no effect,, i d put a 24 volt supply on the solenoid wire in the engine junction box in case the 20v was a little low but nothing happened not a sound.

1 hour ago, andym said:

Is that 20V with the starter motor plugged in?  What happens to the 28V across the batteries when you press the starter switch?

Andy

The pack is in the 434 so everything plugged in, (70hrs on pack)

The battery's are showing 24.5 volts,  when the starter switch is operated batteries are showing 23.15 on the multimeter

So,      the two large white leads heading off to the starter motor,  1 is a negative, the other carrying 24 volts,

in the engine junction box I located the starter motor solenoid wire, when I press the engine starter switch, 19-20 volts runs through this,

im thinking it's a faulty starter motor,  does everyone agree ?  or have I missed something.

Andrew

Yes, always something needs doing.

gmc needs nothing doing to her, just fixed a oil leak from the transfer box on the jeep, cvrt needs a replacement voltage regulator, when its started from cold it over charges the batteries until I hit the regulator with a hammer then it's ok.

Abbot has been restored over the last few months, pack was lifted, new fuel injector pipe fitted as one had necked off at the injector.

bought a tidy 434 with 76 hours on the pack 2-3 weeks ago, was very please to find I could change the engine oil filters without pulling the pack out due to there been a inspection type plate inside the hull.

Andrew

Took some pics of my collection today. Thought I’d share them.

Marcus Glenn has one.

FV 430 pack wanted, must be a good one, also track wanted.

07818817577

Andrew

Was meant be short clip of the abbot firing, cannot seem to load video from iphone

Are military muckabouts 50 cals any better than they use to be?  Some time ago they were getting slated because of there build quality.

Anyone got one for sale?

After 4 hrs of painting job done.

Will be getting top coat of nato green today

So it's the gearbox that could get damaged though towing, anything in the steering box that can get damaged? Just for future reference in case I needed to recover. Good to know that if I disconnect the prop I can recover with the tractor! Is this right?

Blasting and undercoat, bottom half, top will be done mid week. Were  any abbots painted in desert colours? This is the undercoat colour before anyone asks.

Is it ok to tow my 433 with the A frame, im just towing from shed to shed on the farm, wanting to avoid unnecesary startup.

Will be blasting and  painting her during the coming week.

3 hours ago, terryb said:

Had a pipe fracture on an Abbott  here. Local diesel injection shop made a brand new one. Old one fractured as  one of the anti-vibration clamps that fit on the pipes between pump and injector had come loose allowing the pipe to oscillate and fail!

Yes, mind necked off at the injector, was down on power and not starting too good when cold. Considering she was only running on 5 cylinders she didn't sound too bad when running, surprised at that. 2nd injector at the radiator end, any other one and I think I could have repaired it without pulling the pack. I will borrow the pipe off my spare pack! Hoping I can change the pipe without taking off the heat exchanger, very limited room! Will see when the packs out.

Recently found a split injector pipe on the abbot, so its a pack out job.

Never lifted a pack before, ive got everything disconnected apart from the oil, fuel, electric lines to the bottom corner of the radiator,

is it best to lift the pack a little then disconnect them? any other tips would be very helpfull, not a job im looking forward to!

Andrew

Wanted instrument panel and exhaust manifold (front one, to the left of the supercharger) for a fv 430 range.

On 2/11/2020 at 7:06 PM, andym said:

The ISPL (hint!) says 5331-99-881-5925  but I see that xmod are currently out of stock, unfortunately.

Andy

Thanks Andy,

Luckily i did not need any, the old seals sealed!

But i did find some that are very close to the size of the original seals at my local engineering works, 107mm id x 3.3mm and only 90p each.

Oil pressure, a healthy 70psi when cold, backs off to 45-50 when warm.

Andrew

Im having difficulty finding the correct oil filter seal.

xmod need the part number to find me the correct seal.

If anyone could help that would be great!

Andrew

The pressure pipe/gauge is now fitted, looks impossible job, but there is a route in there for your arm, just dont drop anything or its gone!

Im going to run the engine with the tank out, to check for leaks, am i right in thinking the 2 pipes that are on the top of the fuel tank (1 large 1 small) are both returns?

Just need the engine oil filter seals to come from xmod before i check for leaks!

The tank is out, clean inside, fuel pump taken out to check the filter gauze. Took a while to find the fuel pump electric wire but got there in the end.

Managed to reach the tapped hole at the back of the oil pressure switch, i have some fittings  to go in the tapped  hole and up to a oil pressure gauge.

Andrew

Can the fuel tank be taken out with the pack still in?

I see the wires through the hole at the back of the drivers seat, im i right in thinking these are all fuel sender gauge wires?

I dont see any fuel pump electric  wires  anywhere, dnt want to pull the tank until i know i wont damage any pump wiring.

I need to clean the tank out, also get to a small fuel leak somewhere, and while im in there tap in the engine oil pressure switch to put a oil pressure gauge in.

Andrew