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Posts posted by Surveyor
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It's on repeat at the moment
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Just seen this thread and not sure if relavent, if the vehicle is historic and doesn't need Mot and tax, what would the situation be if I carried on getting an MoT would you still need tax?
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18 minutes ago, andym said:
I also suspect that people just don't read the maintenance manuals ("If all else fails ..") I've found mistakes in the FV432 manuals that have followed into those for the Bulldog, so either no-one has reported them or no-one read the manuals in the first place!
Andy
My neighbour who was in the Army, not sure exactly which regiment but was responsible for the motor pool told me yesterday he always preferred to use the civie version of the manual as the Mod ones were hopeless we were talking about land rover to be honest
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On 3/14/2021 at 10:30 AM, jenkinov said:
I would then let it dry and use kurust to stabilise the interior ..again repeat the process 3/4 times ...wait a week and repeat the kurust application again.
This may seem a stupid question but using the Kurust I assume all valves and connections should be taken off?
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Decided that the weather was nice to have a look at the burner again, put endoscope in and as usual brain not thinking as there was the "Fuel pipe" across the base.Took out the plug and next idea get one of the bolts of same thread, yup not got one, had one M10, think the thread could be M12 pushed gently and no crack I was expecting if rust, it moved gently, back to original thought sludge, put about a litre of petrol in to soak over night, will give it a swirl out tomorrow before using a bit of the brake cleaning fluid.
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Thanks for the heads up, I think I will get the endoscope out before I start and see what it looks like, before I start, I may only need to clean the base where the drain plug is, says he hopefully
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Stupid question can anyone supply the basic size length, breadth and height to top of windscreen
Many thanks as I am trying to sort a claim out against a model company
Thanks in advance
Richard
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1 hour ago, sirhc said:
Nothing to do with an asset code, when they got to the end of the numbers-letters-numbers series they started the letters-numbers-letters series. My newer Wolf is HP63AA but my older Lightweight is 57KB22.
Chris
Do we have a date roughly when this happened?
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8 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:
Numbers-Letters-Numbers were changed to Letters-Numbers-Letters for all vehicles including trailers
Sorry I am getting confused, I have a vehicle with numbers first and a trailer letters first, there is a thread on here asking the question why both and response was it was an asset code for the army, I can't remember seeing a "tug" for any trailer recently not having numbers first, I go near Catterick twice a week and see a fair amount of vehicles,
Just trying to get a grip on things
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Many thanks both, also for the merlin website which I couldn't find, looking at the Web pages of the vehicle I will ask for an FOI
Next question I understand trailer started with letters and vehicles numbers but this seems different any advice please
Richard
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I have just purchased an air jack and there is the above registration on the tag, looking on the RLC website its not recognised, before I do an FOI does any one have a clue what the vehicle or trailer it refers to.
Thanks in advance
Richard
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Snood is another term maybe?
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13 hours ago, chrisgrove said:
These cookers were the primary means of cooking in the field during my time in the army. On frequent occasions we had to transport them by air, using that well known airline Crab Air (RAF to be polite). They were not keen on transporting anything that smelt of petrol (vehicles excepted), but our cookers were so old that nothing would get rid of the smell. Solution? Any aerosol that had a stronger smell than petrol, to be utilised as late as possible before the loadie sniffed. But actually cleaning the tank? No idea.
Chris
Chris
Thanks for the information, its always great getting these kinds of anecdotes on any subject
Richard
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Thanks the tank smells of petrol, I am looking to wash out sludge, seen that to get off rust on inside to use gravel, just wondering if the valves may have sludge as well
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55 minutes ago, wally dugan said:
l have been following this from the start those cookers came from 150 RLC TA HULL and where in the museum with a lot more
Many thanks, there was only one in the catalogue, got it for a good price but glad to save it, its one of those jobs, a bit at a time. Going to look at the YouTube video to get the base loose, also looking at best way to clean the tank, any suggestions are always appreciated
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Next phase, took a good look before going further, the pump needs new washers etc. decided the cover and base are the only things I will get clean and repainted, the remainder looks in good condition.
Loosened the nut on the bas and looks like a load of sludge inside, stopped and put back in place to have a think about how to clean out the tank.
Took the metal instruction plate off was fixed with copper rivets.
Going to have another look at the instruction book tonight with a view to getting off base plate and list which valve is which -
I wonder why the difference, it looks like checking that you don't do clock wise, but opposite does the manual say if the thread is a different size
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On 2/11/2021 at 3:16 PM, simon king said:
Red split rim nuts are specifically mentioned in wartime drivers handbooks but white hub nuts were a parade/peacetime affectation I think
Can you give a reference for the book please it sounds a good one to have
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Penthouse Box Markings
in Weapons/Accessories
Posted
That looks like what I bought its the marking on the cover I am wondering about, also have to source correct cables