Surveyor

Thanks for this will do some more digging, at the moment I am trying to decide how much I will need a sand blaster, I am beginning to think, apart from the Land Rover, I may just use the sand blaster company near work, don't tell them but the spare office is going to be the paint spray room

12 minutes ago, Scammell4199 said:

Proper vapour blasting is tiny glass beads in water but still requires compressed air.

Water and sand (or some form of grit, as sand is illegal) is just wet blasting and can be accomplished by adding a water injection head onto just about any grit blaster, or a hobby users version is one of these very basic (and cheap) arrangements for fitting onto a pressure washer.

That's interesting more research for me

30 minutes ago, Liberty said:

LR Series were selling a manual at one point, but it wasn't the operators manual....  some kind of servicing/troubleshooting thing...

They have most manuals for the Clansman Radio kit

47 minutes ago, Stableboy said:

70s..this any help.?

That looks what I am looking for, can you scan it, also a message pad from inside so I can get the fonts right

Thanks in advance 

Richard 

Was sent a scan of a 1980's message pad same period as the FFR Land Rover, made these up, they don't look to bad for the casual observer.

Shame I don't have a picture of what would be the front cover to finish it.

Any help please?

Thans

I have stripped down the cover ready for for fixing the handle and sand blasting, I have decided only to do the base frame and cover, the tank and the pump have minor rust on them so think will leave as is.

A couple of the chains have broken, been to the hardware store they have some chain slightly smaller but trying to source more accurate chain.

Reading on line I understand that its the internal measurements needed, its 18mm long 10mm wide and about 3 mm diameter.

Does any one have a source please

11 hours ago, Citroman said:

This are the baracks of Abteilung 8/230 in Lobenstein

Any idea of the date?

Not a clue, sorry used to see them in catering but not with those marks, it looks almost like a tab for hanging it up by the cross, if you go on face book there is a group there 29th field kitchen who look like reenactors they may have an idea

Looks a bit like a tea towel

Think the professional is still the one

It is good though

1 hour ago, Scammell4199 said:

I try not to paint below 10 degrees. I have found high teens to be a sweet spot. Until recently i was always under the impression, that the hotter the better. It was a very hot day last summer and i sprayed the winch for our scammell and it looked ok to begin with, but when i went back the following day it had dried more matt than normally. I quizzed the vintage car painters in the unit next door to mine and he said it can be too hot, and they hold their booth at, i think, it was 20 odd degrees. He said the thinner was partially evaporating before the paint reached the surface. Since then i have stuck to applying final top coat in the mid to high teens and always had good results. Maybe no need to be quite so fussy when it comes to primer. 

Have you done any spraying before? I have taught myself over the years, and i now like to think i can do a nice finish.

Good luck, Richard

Thanks, I have a rear Land rover door to practice on, have sprayed small items but i want to try my hand with it, also if its doesent look like a paint shop finish i think it will look okay as some members on here have when in the forces even painted over dirt

1 hour ago, Scammell4199 said:

I have had many and varied experiences with sand blasting, and never heard of an electric sand blaster. The ones that use a pressure washer obviously introduce wet to your freshly blasted surface, which maybe ok for some applications but i would think not for a vehicle restorer. 

I have used a number of blasting service providers, but always found it such a hassle dropping bits off and picking them up. I have a large blasting cabinet and after deliberating about it for several years bought a large contractors pressure pot blaster for larger items. I used to hire a compressor when i needed it, but was recently given a large diesel compressor so am now fully self sufficient for blasting.

If you have someone you can easily drop bits off to, and its all going to be easily transportable bits, my advice would be to use them. If they will apply primer for you so much the better. In my experience, cheap blasting equipment never lives up to expectations and creates more hassle than its worth.

Good luck, Richard

Many thanks, the bits are parts of stoves and i have used one near work but was thinking of trying my hand but the more i thought about it especially after advice on here, he will be on my list, hopefully next week, 

24 minutes ago, 07BE16 said:

Last MOT in March 2020 shows mileage as 43150 however the advert states 26720

Is it miles or km converted to miles, mine shows km, garage put that as miles on mot

Just to update, got the stand and pot from Switzerland, i do like the way they can be stacked for transport.

Just need the cook book

2 hours ago, SirLanceUK said:

I found a local company that did the blasting and coating for me on a CVRT drivers seat for £60. I built my own sand blasting setup for £30 (already had the compressor) and it works a treat on small parts, I also got a needle scaler and that works a treat as well. I have hear of the power wash option but dont know anyone who uses it

John

Thanks for the information, I am not needing much done at any one time, unfortunately I don't have much storage and it's full even after a clear out April last year. I am trying to get a double garage to rent when things should be easier to get these things and work with them. 

Richard 

34 minutes ago, Citroman said:

There was some pressure washer that could also have a blasting medium in the water. Could be an option.

Never heard of that will have a hunt tomorrow, I would think the container to hold the grit and the nozzle may be the only things needed to add to a karcher power wash

1 hour ago, Richard Farrant said:

You can use which ever medium you require, such as aluminium oxide, glass beads, etc. That would obviously be extra, you cannot blast without a compressor of enough output. Easier to get someone to do it for you .

Richard 

I am thinking that and there is one near work will go and see him next week with the parts

Richard 

They seem to be advertised but when looking at them they don't mention grit, 

The link you supplied I have seen but I think if I am reading it correctly I still need a compressor which I am trying to avoid 

Not having much to need sand blasting I have been hunting for a sand blaster powered by electricity not air.

Can anyone suggest one as will probably only need it 3 times a year.

Based in the UK

Thanks

Richard

1 hour ago, Chris Hall said:

Health and safety! We get these labels on all food served remote from the place of preparation. Especially if there’s no cook to monitor the food state.

Many thanks, never seen them before so was curious

Just got a Norwegian container and found this label on it, can anyone help with why it was used as the others i have do not

Thanks in advance

Richard

1 minute ago, ruxy said:

No rotation on any speed , motor jammed or blown fuse.

Single speed (fastest)  only operation  , could be resistor blown.  Switch could be gone but I doubt if on both sides.

Have you checked the fan will actually turn - leaf mash is a common problem on many cars. If stalled it will blow the fuse.  

Ruxy

Not tried anything yet leaf was something I had not thought of, the thing stopping me starting is the fan appears to be rivited to the heat exchange unit, I think I start with the basic, I do see I may have to take the windscreen wash bottle off to get to the unit

50 minutes ago, sirhc said:

You don’t need to ask around. Go to www.Google.co.uk and type in Land Rover 110 wiring diagram and click search....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/110-wiring-diagram-military-version.344963/

Many thanks 

1 minute ago, sirhc said:

The parts manual won’t tell you which wires to test, you need the wiring diagram for that.

True, I will ask around and see who has one but Ruxy with his colours has given me a start which is appreciated