teletech

I did speak to someone recently who had spent $40K USD and gotten a set or rubber-band tracks for his CVR(T), so that's somewhat more "reasonable".

The how-to video for the FV43x series is over here:

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/wwwfv432couk/recapping-track-pads-t1636-s20.html

The owner has been running them for rather a while now.

Over here they have re-rubbered road wheels and done some miles on them:

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/wwwfv432couk/re-rubbering-road-wheels-t1781.html#p13730

I've had one outfit complain they are having trouble shipping Clansman parts due to customs, but I've not had any trouble using other vendors or by Ebay.  I have had other things fail to pass customs via Ebay, a cloth cover for a GPMG for instance.  I did get a refund and there weren't any other noticeable repercussions. I'm not sure it was actually customs that stopped it but could have just been someone at the Ebay shipment warehouse thinking it was a potential liability.  Of course, that's on the sending end and shipping to the USA, it could be something specific in Germany I suppose.  Some of the ITAR stuff has gotten a bit much in my opinion as I can no longer get spent 76mm brass to make dummy rounds for my deactivated gun in the Scorpion.  

I've got several headsets with really very tatty downlead cables.  That is, the insulation is falling off the cable in big chunks.  I'd be willing to replace just the wire and reuse the end, but sadly the 7-pin connector seems to be crimped onto the cable and not really disassemble-able in any case.  I did see NOS bare cables on a popular online auction site, but as a price over that of a good headset!  Has anyone seen replacement downleads or cable-ends at a reasonable price lately?

1 hour ago, Mk3iain said:

Here you go.

 

Got it, thanks for that.

I guess one more thing to pick up a couple of. 🙂

I've seen it on several different headsets, crewman's and AVF crew, etc.  small 3-pin female connector in addition to the cable with the 7-pin connector.

I wondered if it might be an alternate pressel port, mic port (throat mic?), or perhaps something else?  but I just don't know short of tearing a headset apart.

11 hours ago, markyw999 said:

Thanks - that was my initial thought but I can’t find a photo of something similar to corroborate….im also now wondering whether it’s not a seat base but actually some kind of equipment table…?!

Photos of the commander's seat frame in my Ferret:

Take the one "leg" off your frame, flip it upside down...

https://www.theengineer.co.uk/content/news/hybrid-periscope-could-aid-drivers-of-armoured-vehicles/

It would be interesting to know if the technology was ever fielded.

Looks like a Ferret commander's seat, upside-down and with some extra angle-iron kludged-on.

But I could easily be wrong!

Well, so much for my alignment....

I finally got the vehicle assembled enough to get the cooling system working and ran it for a while.  It seems my fan belt alignment is not good.  I'd carefully checked the distance between the bulkhead and gearbox flange, but that was with the decks off and it appears the installation of the decks pulled the bulkhead out of alignment.  Whatever the case, I'm seeing unacceptable wear on the fan belt against the back (fan side) flange of the fan pulley.  I guess my choices are raise the back of the gearbox or shim the fan, unless I'm missing something?

Interesting to see so very few CVR(T) confirmed-lost so far.  The one from mid-May is interesting as a photo showing a big section of hull sort of broken and the vehicle generally quite charred, but apparently the hull didn't catch fire.

So, the Spartans confirmed lost to-date:https://postimg.cc/zbj5tDy2

Mine are original and look to be 2-1/8"ID.

This report detaining he testing of replacement alternatives and comparing to the old No.80 was interesting, especially looking at the tests where they shot grenades still in launchers.

https://apps.dtic.mil/sti/pdfs/ADA474314.pdf

saw these, but it would be lovely to find replicas that would fit the launchers.  If I had a good dimensioned drawing I might be able to come up with some, or even a good photo with a couple measurements for reference.

https://www.pdhenterprises.co.uk/no-80-grenade.html

looks like in later service there were trialed alternatives:

https://apps.dtic.mil/sti/citations/ADA474314

Yet more Stormers being sent and a pretty decent intro video to the system.

I'm going to put a Jag motor back in my Scorpion, but "if" it dies I'm inclined to swap in a 4.2HO motor from a Jeep or perhaps a 300 Ford so I know it's just going to work for the duration.

Looks better than the one I pulled out, not that it's any consolation.

Neglect, sure, but also a good example of why they re-powered the CVR(T) range. 

Just a few years back, there were still plenty of Jag cars to use as engine donors in my area, I *might* regret not grabbing a couple spares.

The vendor got very busy with orders from Ukraine for several months, but they did finally send me the bits I needed to get things going.  I've finally got the hoses on, gearbox filled with oil, brakes bled, and many of the other small tasks that needed doing.  At the moment I think my biggest hurdle is still a path to the door.

Lots of little tasks though, but making progress on them as well.

I'd love a picture of the TUAAM and ARFAAT mounting on the Spartan, also the cable routing and securing between the commander's CBF and driver's CB2 so I can duplicate the correct setup.

I did see the fire system test button on the diesel air cleaner somewhere, but I've misplaced that and so also nee a pic of how that looks when installed.

My Spartan is so very close to running, but lots of little details to be sorted that don't impair running, but can be done when I don't have the big chunk of time to move things out of the way for the movement test.

I could still use a couple, or a couple sets.

8 minutes ago, Grego said:

I think you may be right! The 1/2" BSPT has a nominal OD of 0.825" with a 14 pitch. That tap I used is 0.83" with a 14 pitch. Maybe the BSTP is technically a whitworth, but I'd have to look into the specifications more. 

Good idea to have British Standard wrenches as well, as there are a few places they show up (like the fuel fittings) and without them you are left wondering why neither your inch or metric wrenches quite fit.

Whitworth is yet another thing still and less common.  I haven't found any on the Ferret, that I know of.  Using an optical comparator to see if the threads are 55 degrees or 60 degrees is the fastest way to verify suspected Whitworth threads.

1 hour ago, Grego said:

Ohh and another very odd thing I discovered is that the brass plugs that fit into the wheel hubs are a very odd size. I had to re-tap mine because a previous owner misaligned the cover and tried to hammer it on. Well one of the dowels lined up and pinched the threads on the brass plug and they stripped out when I removed them.  The tap you need is a Compressed Gas Thread Tap, 0.830"-14 Thread Size. This thread size seems to be a popular size for paintball gun air tanks. Anyway I had to spend $150 for the damn thing. Yeah I probably could have bought a wheel hub cap for cheaper, but then we would never know the thread size. 

Makes me wonder why it's that size in the first place. Did Daimler have a warehouse full of these gas plugs and figured why not just use them?

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/2477A23/

I don't know for sure, but I'd suspect you are actually looking at a British Standard pipe thread (BSPF) there, you'll find them in a few sizes here and there throughout the vehicle.

6 hours ago, ferretfixer said:

0n 432 APC's. At one end of each torsion bar. It is drilled & Tapped with a female thread. There was an insertion / removal Tool used. Approx 4 Feet long,  which could be VERY easily replicated. Basically, it was a 'T' shaped stem & handle from steel round bar. With a screw thread on the end of the stem. Which matched the thread hole in the end of the torsion bar. Excellent for inserting the bar, lift it up inside the hull. To the correct position. To fit the spline holes in the hull.  

I have never had to do a CVR(T) Torsion bar myself. But would imagine the same type of tool t have been utilised? It makes sense! 😁

Removing the bars is sort-of easy: take the weight off the roadwheel, remove the retainer pin cover, remove the retainer pin( this part can be hard),  just unbolt the flange and run bolts into the extraction holes. 

Stripping the tape, adhesive, paint, and rust off the torsion bar once you have it out is the challenge I'm frustrated by.

Very cool that you have a complete setup for the Larkspur though!

I've got some Larkspur cables, mics, speakers, and other bits, but most of it got lost/destroyed before I bought the vehicle, so starting over, Clansman seemed the thing to do.  Plus it matches my CVR(T) that way.

What paint are you using for the interior?  I had a couple rattlecans of high-heat aluminum that work great and are authentically soft and shedding, but don't know where I'll get more.

I found them to be expensive for a lot of things, but good on you for making it a big push.  You'll appreciate having things in such a good state when it's back together.

Bad luck on the engine!  Glad to hear you have it back together at least.

I'm just in the process of fitting Clansman intercom gear in mine and really loving the idea of being able to communicate with the person in the commander seat without screaming at them.  Next up: a long cable so I can have a conversation with someone outside while I try to navigate parking.  At some point adding a radio, but not ready for that for a while yet.

You've chosen a pretty good moment to be working on your Ferret, lots of parts popping up on Ebay and lots of CES for sale that got stripped off Ferrets that got sent to fight in Ukraine just now.

Welcome.

Smart looking Ferret you have there.

New soft-lines for the brakes are *highly* recommended if yours haven't been changed in a while.  REME depot has them.  I also recommend changing the accelerator pump diaphragms and cleaning out the fuel tank and lines from the fuel tank to selector switchbefore wondering why it doesn't run better.

Seems like 65216 is in far better condition than 65247, so that's lucky.

It also seems like you are several thousand percent faster than I am.

I broke several bolts getting my clutch linings apart and it was really annoying to buy/make new ones as they were BSF.

Did you strip your torsion bars, and if so, how?  I've been side-eyeing mine for weeks now trying to figure out some reasonable way to do that.