teletech

Looks lovely! I just wish I were at the stage where I could start putting things together rather than doing more disassembly. Partly from running out of space to put all the parts. You must have been collecting spares for a good long while to happen to have so much NOS around?

I can sympathize, little things like frozen latches and hinges can take hours to sort properly and nobody but the fellow who did the works can ever really appreciate just how much work went into those small items.

keep up the good work, I need pictures and text as a manual. :-)

I was wondering which e-type, the series 2 (1968-1971) or series 3 (1971-1975) as they are different calipers.

I matched it to an E Type.

 

Diana

Are the calipers for the series 2 or 3 Jaguar?

thanks,

I'd appreciate seal information for the outputs of the TN15, both inner (drive) and outer (steering disc).

I could measure them and buy a standard seal but getting the FV# or Nato # would give me more options.

thanks,

Looks like 20Pts total capacity.

Clutch progress: re-blasted the flash rust off my clutch drums and powder-coated them along with the driveshaft mounting plates and fan pulley. Fairly heavy pitting is typical of these parts and mine are sadly no exception, none of it looks structural though. I went with gloss even though it shows the pitting just because it's easy to clean.

Impressive how much pitting the steering caliper adapters show but they too got blasted and coated.

I finally ordered and received the final lock-tabs for my clutch. It is interesting that the ones X-mod are selling look and work correctly but are 1) not the same as the originals I removed and 2) need to be bent outward to accommodate a socket.

I also spent some time on my other gearbox, I was pretty impressed by just how badly hardened the output shaft seals were.

I'd just use the complete weight of the vehicle for calculations; for the most part it doesn't matter if your dolly has a higher weight rating, or if the truck is slightly bigger than it has to be. If you really need an answer, you could work backwards though; take the base weight and subtract the weight of the pack, suspension units, tracts, etc.

 

Cheers,

Terry

Using the complete weight is bad, takes me up a notch in the towing so about 3x the cost around here. Knowing that I have stripped off at least a couple tons gets me someplace reasonable but I'd like to have a number better than "it's fine" and if it really is just a few tons left that lets me tow it myself at almost no cost.

Have you tried The Alvis Fighting Vehicle Society:-

 

http://www.afvsociety.co.uk/

I had checked that site a while back, no recent posts and they never authenticated my membership request so I gave up.

Checking now it does seem there is a fair bit of activity though most of it is in foreign languages with a lot of spam thrown in but it would definitely be good to dig through those archives.

Actually, I have a 12000# tension scale and just bought some fork extensions so with some rigging and a bit of time I guess I can determine the answer, if my forklift is up to the task!

Do the welding before blasting so that the blasting can blend it in a bit.

 

It is nice to see a CVRT being gone through in this much detail. Have you sourced the replacement for the PVC covered foam panels? The covering was a material called "trakmark" which was also sold for lining the interiors of the engine rooms of large motor boats. It is very difficult to find in the UK so those of us here that need it would be very interested if there is a US equivilent.

 

David

Good point, welding first is a better plan for that reason.

I don't think they are PCV covered but rather silicone due to flammability issues and likely special foam as well. I've got nothing as yet but I'm thinking if I can find the material for the top layer I have a friend who does auto interiors who can fix it onto some foam. I'll post when I have a sample worth showing.

I looked at the pictures of the trakmark and didn't feel it was an especially close match to what I have so perhaps the product changed slightly over time or the Belgians used something slightly different.

Welcome from another Californian, I've got a couple vehicles as well but mine don't fit as easily inside the house. :-)

An electric vibrating knife made fairly short work of getting the interior foam and most of the adhesive off and in good condition for use as patterns.

It's getting very empty inside, just the fuel tank left to remove but first I have to get the last inch of foul liquid out of the bottom of it.

I've still got some of the roadwheels and axles on the hull so I can move it for sandblasting but otherwise the exterior is finally ready as well. I do have some welding to do on the front and rear sponson so I'm trying to decide if I'm going to do that before or after blasting.

A sample bolt on one side, the freshly purchased BA bolt on the other and in the middle a new bolt cut to length and head thinned.

I'm sure someone has stripped one and sold it for scrap or knows what they weigh in some other manner.

I'm getting really close to bare-hull stage and would like to know how big dolley to roll it on once the last roadwheels come off and how a truck I need to move it to the sandblaster.

I think you're referring to a ball joint separator. I would call the bit between the damper and the suspension arm the damper link arm.

 

Chris

Just so, very good. I'll amend the list to so state.

I'll add in the vibrating knife to remove the interior foam as well.

thanks,

P_

So, a quick language check:

In the U.S.A. I would call the rod linking the axle arm to the lever on the Armstrong shock a tie rod, the sealed articulating bit at the end a tie rod end, and the thing needed to force the tapered joint where the tie rod end goes into that lever arm a tie-rod end separator.

The crude version is commonly called a pickle-fork over here.

What do you fellows call the tools and bits so I can add it to the list in a way that makes sense?

thanks,

It is worth knowing that a #2BA bolt is very much like a #10 32TPI screw. It's 1TPI different which means for your average 4-5 thread engagment it's only off about 15% in total timing which might just work if the threads are a bit sloppy or soft.

I ordered the right thing but if I had it to do over I might have just run a tap down the holes and gone with some easy to get bolts.

Back to work after a long pause. I spent much of the day removing track and road wheels. They were really difficult to get off as the discs were well stuck to the hubs with dirt and oxidation. Is there something I can use when doing the reassembly to prevent this, anti-seize, grease, caulk, or ...?

The Cast-Off stuff looks great, I was rather hoping for something smaller so I could use it with some of the wargames out there. Of course like you now I'm too busy trying to get mine going to play games or build models.

There are AFV club 1/35 Scimitar and Scorpion kits. There are also loads of add ons and conversions for these, such as the Cast Off Sabre conversion and Scimitar LEP kits. I have a lot of them which I have not built as too busy on the real thing!

 

http://www.castoff-models.co.uk

4 months, dear dear, how embarrassing. I could talk about my forklift, truck, and commute car all needing repairs but really I just got in a funk about having to deal with so much rust and old paint. Luckily I had a couple friends who came over and gave me the little nudge I needed to get the project rolling again.

I'm still stripping the last of the details off the hull, the turret ring came right off and was surprisingly lightweight, I think about the same weight as the loading door on the back which I think too more time to remove due to the rusted fasteners and such.

I'm slowly building a clutch. I had sandblasted the shoes and they flash-rusted so heavily and quickly I decided I was going to use electrolysis to do the next pass and that's where I got hung up for months. Wanting to make some concrete progress NOW, I just put them back in the blaster cabinet and then acid pickled them, then washed, baked, and re-dipped the acid. One wash later I applied some preservative (Starrett M1 tool preservative/lube) and did a second bake to drive out any remaining moisture and harden the lube.

Looks like I forgot to remove one of the several broken 2BA bolts that hold the pads on the shoes so that's up next.

Here's what the main clutch body looks like after sandblasting, three coats of zinc paint, new studs, and clips:

With the shoes on and ready for garter springs:

Remaining broken screws removed and garter springs installed:

I set the garter springs so the ends were opposite, for what tiny difference the balance and spring expansion might make.

It is interesting to note that the 2BA fasteners are very close to standard ASE #10-32 screws but about 33TPI, so if you are really hard up you could use a #10-32 tap to start cleaning out the hole or a screw if you just can't source BA screws.

I did go ahead and buy some 2BA screws from a specialty manufacturer and sort of wish I hadn't as they look lovely but the heads are too tall and had to be shaved to match the original screws.

There is a lot of information out int the model forums and some in the game forums but those groups don't seem to overlap as much as I would have thought and besides, some of the MV folks want minis too...

I've come up with miniatures or models for every MV I've owned over the years, so it seemed natural to buy a couple little miniatures while my mini-tanks were in transit. I thought it might be useful to folks to do a little comparison.

1) 1/72 scale FV101 from ACE (CAT.#72417)

I like the metal tracks and the overall level of detail isn't bad but the parts wanted a lot of cleanup and even at that there were issues with mold filling and alignment, this was a particular annoyance dealing with the wheels. I hear it's nowhere near as nice as any of the larger kits but it's the best model I've seen in the under 3" long class.

2) From TSS, a QRF MBRV01 FV107 Scimitar, the scale isn't specified but something like 1:100.

It's not a kit you have to build, just attach the sides and drop on the turret, so that's handy if you want a little something to put on your desk but the detail and mold filling are nowhere as good as either of the other replicas I've got on my desk just now and the lack of sharp detail will only get worse with paint unless you put a lot of effort in. It also seems like the profile is too low.

3) GHQ Modern Micro Armor 1:285 Scale

When they say "Super Detailed" believe it! Overall I'd say the level of detail isn't far behind the 10x heavier product from QRF and the sharp lines of the slightly disproportionate details make it easy to paint and actually look better with minimal effort. But they are tiny, if these guys made a larger model I'd have it shipping to me pretty well immediately. As is, they are cheap and small enough I can have some around to they park nicely on most common game boards.

Hi Guys thanks for the comments, will correct the front bins so they are the correct way

 

@ Teletec like the name doghouse. Durrently it's off and I like the look better. If I can find rear deck doors will switch over, but for now I leave it open.

I was going to rip mine right off to save the weight and such, but seeing how badly the stock doors leak I've been seduced by the ability to stand upright in mine. Once it's running and summer comes perhaps I'll take it off. :-)

Vary nice work there, I wish I could have a good go at mine.

I do like the look of the blasted and painted track I worry very much about media intrusion wearing on things. Am I being foolish? They do drive them around in sand and dirt after all.

I noticed you removed the hull riser/ missile doghouse. Are you going to fit doors or do you have something else in mind?

Help?

I have a Night Vision L5A1 sight from a Challenger 1 that has to be moved just about now. Well I don't actually have it, I bought it to be included with a shipment I had coming out to the US but the seller held me up and it missed the container. I had it stashed at a friend's place for a while but it has to be moved by close of business Wednesday or it's getting tossed in the rubbish!

It's in

Leicester Forest East

LEICESTER

Leicestershire

LE3 3QT

As much as I'd like to find someone who has a shipment coming over, or even to hold it until I get a plan, or even just sell it and split the proceeds I'm out of time and leverage so I'd rather have someone just take it away than have it destroyed.

Please PM me if you have any ideas.

I bought this periscope hoping it might be useful in my work with my CVR(T) either as a complete sight or perhaps as a retrofit to fill the hole until I can find the right one.

Sadly the pictures were junk, the seller unhelpful, and it's a half a world away so I'm hoping the good people of this site might have a clue about what it is and what I should do with it.

My best guess so far is this is a night sight for a Challenger?

Packed it weighs 26KG.

Currently located in Leicestershire but I need it out of my co-worker's family's house really soon.

The sights are fairly expensive (350GBP is what I've seen) and somewhat scarce, the commander's sight is worse.

You don't specify which bins you are looking for or if you are after the old, middle series, or new bins.

Granted the Scorpions didn't usually get the new series bins but depending on your hull and desires I've seen it done.

I'm considering a set of new type front bins myself since I happen to have the new headlights and all and I've not seen wading screens available. :-)

The Xmod, Marcus Glenn , and such often have at least some bins for sale.

I guess the bottom line is expect replacing the missing bits to set you back more than you might have thought, it's a good part of the reason a project vehicle is much cheaper than a complete one.

Good luck in your quest.