teletech

I thought if I was going to loose my mind, may as well go the whole way. :nut:

Actually, I couldn't decide which one I really wanted and I was told (incorrectly as it happens, in my case) that shipping two wouldn't be that much more than shipping one.

Robin, he has a Sturgeon too.

 

Chris

Well, I'm doubly glad I asked then as I see where extrapolation would have got me!

I was looking through a driver's manual and didn't see anything useful so I checked the instructor's manual also to no avail.

How does one manage tracked vehicles around rail lines?

Obviously if you are just crossing the tracks then it's just a minor ridge and should be crossed at right angles but what if you need to travel along the line... say a narrow trestle is the only across a river so you have to get one track over the rail line?

thanks as always.

OK, I can work out that after the first decade of it's life it basically just got freighted back and forth between Canada and the UK for upgrades and parking. I guess what I wonder about is what it might have done in those first formative years before the MCT upgrade. Anything jump out at folks that I should look into?

User ID Date Comments

qmgcs 17/04/78 LUDGERSHALL

qmgcs 31/10/78 LANCERS

qmgcs 08/11/80 2 RTR

qmgcs 19/01/84 9/12 LANCERS

qmgcs 25/11/86 ODA

qmgcs 07/04/87 CODE CHANGE 0854 7500 TO 0856 3000

qmgcs CODE FROM 0856 3000 TO 3001 AUTH DE/DGES/A/422 14 11 ES 41C(1) 30/9/94 H41

qmgcs ASSET CODE CHANGED TO GA08593002 AUTHY ______ 07/05/96 BATCH NO K29

qmgcs002 01/03/06 CODE CHANGE TO GA08599099, SEE BATCH W95

qmgcs012 01/09/08 A/C GA08598099 AUTHY LAS IPT 253 RERERS

IV No. IV Date UIN Unit Title RV No. RV Date

CB993c DSG PLANNED REPAIR R&I BLDG C34

400190 14/03/87 A0501A 1 G C 3308 26/03/87

000499 11/12/90 CA211C COMPOSITE SUP SQN, REGT TECH OPS 0000780 29/01/91

CWL555 17/12/91 A0501A 1 G G 5555^96 17/12/91

CWL555 16/09/92 A0504A 1CG 5555@75 16/09/92

CAPITA 06/05/93 CA015A VEHICLE DEPOT LUDGERSHALL LO66838 07/05/93

670B 10/02/94 A2033K ABRO DONNINGTON PLANNED REPAIR APP8072 14/02/94

91/94 29/06/94 CA015A VEHICLE DEPOT LUDGERSHALL 1126BB 18/07/94

2147B 03/11/94 CA320C 105 LOG SP SQN RLC VEH TP 0269 17/01/95

0218 18/01/95 A2971A BATUS QM(T) 1564H05 03/02/95

0203 25/06/95 CA320C 105 LOG SP SQN RLC VEH TP 0256H35 25/08/95

0001HT 25/07/96 A2971A BATUS QM(T) 0053H/T 08/08/96

0082 15/11/96 A2033K ABRO DONNINGTON PLANNED REPAIR 999L1 15/11/96

00705A 14/10/97 CA005A LSCS ASHCHURCH 29473AA 15/10/97

34309A 23/10/97 A2971A BATUS QM(T) 0179 05/12/97

096 10/10/00 A2033K ABRO DONNINGTON PLANNED REPAIR 999 23/11/00

401A 27/09/01 CA005A JSCS ASHCHURCH 50568AA 03/10/01

57106A 05/02/02 A2971A BATUS QM(T) 039 22/04/02

047 25/11/03 CA005A JSCS ASHCHURCH 59170AA 12/01/04

64649A 02/02/04 A2033K ABRO DONNINGTON PLANNED REPAIR 999 02/03/04

163A 23/06/04 CA005A JSCS ASHCHURCH 61465AA 24/06/04

66300A 21/07/04 A2971A BATUS QM(T) 264 03/09/04

110258 22/11/07 CB993C DSG PLANNED REPAIR R&I BLDG C34 4318 27/02/08

376 26/01/10 CA005A JSCS ASHCHURCH 91529AA 27/01/10

105055 08/03/11 A2971A BATUS QM(T) 282992 19/08/11

49799 17/10/12 CA005A JSCS ASHCHURCH 5583AA 27/02/13

It would be nice to have a repository for scanned manuals even though this involves some bandwidth and storage space.

I just scanned the 2003 instructor's manual for the CVR(T) Spartan, anyone wanting a copy can PM me.

I feel like such an underachiever, a year for me and mine isn't even quite fully disassembled.

Did you ever find a source for a traverse gearbox?

I think it may have come from terry brooks originally but I bought it from a third party.

it took me approx. a year to get it mobile and road legal but iv'e still got a lot of finishing touches to do,mainly in the turret

 

QUOTE=teletech;468669]Thanks for the kind words. How long did it take to get yours going?

Any chance yours came from Terry as well?

 

In California, I can run it on the roads withing 1/4 mile of my shop with no paperwork or anywhere on temporary permits (18USD each) so not ideal but as a percentage of the total cost not too bad.

Has anybody got the part #s handy for the correct seals?

contact info for Bannister's?

It's the same gun as the US M240 so that might give you some options from the USA.

Of course, the *best* ones here are made with mostly real parts so more like what you would consider a de-act so likely no longer shippable due to ITAR.

Funny the different laws, I can buy a re-worked GPMG (semi-automatic) but I can't have a live 76mm (well, not reasonably) where you have the reverse situation.

So, does this mean you have spares available?

I have some brake-fluid seals but would rather keep mine original.

A few years ago I found a bloke selling CVRT steering callipers on ebay as Jaguar parts. He had bought them from a surplus sale and was taking the seals out and replacing them with standard seals. He had one left which I bought from him, when I told him what I wanted it for he produced a bag of seals he'd removed and was about to throw away!

Correct, the MOD-fitted diesel for the CVR(T) is the BTA5.9 turbo. Other countries used other motors for dieselization.

I wonder what it would be like to use one of the later common-rail, computer-controlled units with multi-pre-injection... I'm told they are quieter than many gas engines! I have a spare engine but I doubt it's worth the hassle of shipping back to the UK.

Morning, are you after a complete lump or bits? And excuse my ignorance but is it the bta 5.9 turbo, / little daf lump you're looking for?

rgds Whizz.

It seems like you would want to add length once things were worn rather than remove it, I don't suppose you have the page that shows the clip and use of it, a part # would be nice as well?

The x-mod has clutch linings, springs, as well as seals both quite cheaply of late so if one has gone through the effort of removing the clutch one might as well as replace the linings and springs.

https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=452&t=Liner_Clutch_FV659124_

Sounds about right. If the seals are shot the clutch pads will be contaminated and would normally be replaced while you have the clutch apart for the seals. If the pads are not too bad you may be able to get away without changing them. Another tip on clutch wear. When a new clutch is fitted new a C clip was also fitted. This C clip joined both ends of the gater spring to allow for some adjustment once the clutch started slipping i.e. if the C clip is fitted it could be removed once you notice clutch slip which will then give you additional life on the same clutch.

Well, it looks like I can at least partly answer my own question at this point.

According to an older manual I own, the maximum allowable gap between the clutch pads and drum is .125"

My clutch inner assembly is 9.502" diameter with fresh pads so my current drum ID of 9.644" gives me some space before I have to worry.

I'd still be interested in what others are running or what the manuals spec.

Well, I'm no expert but I live under an hour from this pair and I can't recall seeing any others in the US, running or not.

I do see some land rovers, both civvy and issue running and otherwise from time to time.

Mostly it's Jeeps, M37s and cargo trucks but once in a while I see something unusual..

I saw a pair of Burma jeeps a bit ago (not running and they alway seems to be found in pairs) and the was a WWII Humber not far from me a while back.

Thanks Nick I wonder just how popular they were with our US cousins

 

Pete

Thanks for the kind words. How long did it take to get yours going?

Any chance yours came from Terry as well?

In California, I can run it on the roads withing 1/4 mile of my shop with no paperwork or anywhere on temporary permits (18USD each) so not ideal but as a percentage of the total cost not too bad.

fantastic job you're doing there .

I feel your pain having taken on an ex Belgian scimitar myself .

will you be able to get it street legal over there?

regards

justin

Dang, I really should buy this, someone please get to it before I loose my mind.

http://goldcountry.craigslist.org/cto/5580164340.html

1942 White Halftrack $6500.00 obo. Mostly complete extra boggie set, Rare steel Grousers for tracks serious inquires only ! Not running Ran when parked . Nice start for restoration Mostly complete all drive train componants , Engine is Complete Winch is intact

Just thought I'd mention it in case any of our other US members need more rust for the back yard.

Rough but impressively cheap!

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/5559851349.html

1953 WN3 FV1801

I have too many projects going on to take it on.

Just curious though, what does one of these weigh?

If it was light enough I might be able to stash one in the attic of my shop, you know, for later... :-)

Well, it was a lot more work and money than I bargained for it's true. I think I needed a break to recover from the import and realization of what was before me. I can't give up, partly because wandering through my shop and noticing tracked armor still makes me smile and partly because it seems like every horizontal surface is covered in CVR(T) bits!

I've been avoiding Facebook but I suppose I'll have to have a go at some point, I would love more history on this vehicle.

Thanks for the kind words. I'd love to make it to Aquino but we are a man down at work so I have to be here to run the telescope that weekend. Next year for sure, say hi to Al and the guys for me!

have fun!

P_

Great to see you are still making progress with your vehicle, I was worried at one point that it might have become all too much for you, all credit to you.

 

There is a CVRT facebook group and some of the Belgians have been on there and some people have found in service vehicle pictures through it.

 

Hope to see you at Aquino

 

Robin

I love the look of those, replaceable track pads, and the driver's visibility is far superior to my CVR(T) Spartan but I'm not ready to import more armor.

I offer a rare tracked vehicle brand Hotchkiss 22-2 "beobachter" 1959 . The vehicle is in good riding condition .It is located in Poland . Price 15500 € . Only seriously interested. (e-mail apaja007@gmail.com )

 

Rafał[ATTACH=CONFIG]115230[/ATTACH]

While I was buying scale minis, I got some of what must be the smallest CVR(T) anybody has bothered to make.

At 7mm long, which works out to something like 256:1 I think. A common scale for wargaming with ships and such I gather.

The detail isn't amazing but they are obviously Scorpions.

I spent some time measuring and checking catalogs so here's what I found.

My pistons were pretty rough as well, I found that XKS.COM sells new stainless steel pistons as well as rebuild kits and such.

The large pistons are 2.248" OD, E-Type Series III V-12 , 420 Sedan , XJ-6 Series I , XJ-12 Series I Front

the smaller ones are diameter: 1.5915" Applications: Series III E-Type V-12 , 420 Sedan , Series I XJ-6 and XJ-12. Also fitted to Aston Martin DB5, DB6, DBS; Alfa Romeo 2600 8/63-1968; Jensen Interceptor MK II & MK III 1973-1976; Lotus Elite 1974-1980; Rover 3500S 1970-1971; Misc. Mercedes.

Since they normally use mineral oil I assume they don't run very hot in service?

I'm thinking some nice stainless pistons and a powder-coat job on the caliper bodies would keep me from having to battle rust in the future.

I've already decided to job out the sandblasting but I thought I'd test out the fancy 3M abrasive the sales rep gave me to test.

I forgot to take a matching picture but I'll say it tool 7:45 to prep a 1 sq' section of painted hull to mostly bare metal and ready for priming. The abrasive held up very well and would have been good for several more square feet of hull but it wasn't any faster than other methods of prep I tried so nothing game-changing there.

I broke out the pressure washer and cleaned out the torsion rod tunnels, I'm not sure what the rods were coated in but with the grease/mud/water slurry that cam out of those tunnels I was running out of nasty smelling parts of hull.

That just left the fuel tank.

I had pumped the nearly hundred gallons of fuel and water from the tank but the pickup was about an inch above the bottom leaving a nasty smelling crud that looked like this:

I did my best to skim off the little bit of fuel floating on top and then used a wet/dry vacuum cleaner to get the rest out, it worked well but stank up the shop to an impressive degree, leaving me with a pretty clean fuel bag:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]114977[/ATTACH]

I'm still working on hull prep, some welding will need to take place before long.

I decided the rear sponson was irredeemable so got out my Sawzall and removed what was left, a bit of grinding and the new one will be ready to fit.

Next I turned my attention to the side sponsons which needed a bit of pounding and bending but were pretty decent so I moved my strong-bar, hydraulics, and 6lb sledge to the front.

I had previously managed to improve things from something so warped you couldn't even stand on it to this:

The metal was so stretched a 8-ton hydraulic ram wasn't improving things any more so I made a thin cut through the deepest part of the depression. After more press work and pounding the gap had closed I ran the saw through again and so-on.

Now I just need to weld up my relief cut and dress the weld so it's ready for metal prep.

While removing the pins that retain the torsion bars I had some trouble.

I was tempted to machine something nice but it occurred to me that most folks would have to cobble something up in a moment of need so I went with what I had lying around.

I used a short length of hardened threaded rod cut from a 1/4"-20TPI bolt, coupled to a softer length of threaded rod so if the threaded rod failed I wouldn't have to drill out (more) rod bits form inside the retaining pins.

Add a heavy nut, thick washer, and a deep socket and you are set.

if you do have a bit of rod break off inside the retainer pin, you can use a cut piece from a expanding concrete anchor and you will have something with a well centered hole already in it like so:

I have some manuals but don't see the maximum allowable inside diameter for a petrol CVR(T) clutch drum.

I'm working to find the balance between cleaning up the rust pitting and keeping enough metal to do the job.

Just about every one I've ever seen has awful pitting from sitting wet so I'm sure this must come up.

What have others found?

thanks,

I have to load the hull onto the transport then unload at the sandblaster's place, then reverse the process some days later.

Honestly the cost of a self-loading tow service is a really good deal when you compare it to having to dig out my tow gear, drive to a rental yard, load the hull, drive to the next county, unload, drive back to the rental yard...

I wanted the information to 1) reassure the driver it's under 11000lbs (I know it is but don't have any empirical evidence) and 2) I'd like to put the bare hull on a dolly to move it around so I can take the last of the wheels off and I might need to buy some big casters for the job.

Pavl, why not just rent a trailer, I am reasonably sure you can rent a 10,000 lbs trailer for around $80 a day, and this trailer can be pulled by a full size pickup truck. I can't imagine an aluminum hull sans turret weighs more than 5 tons, and if you have to move the turret too, just make another trip! You have the trailer for the day :-)