teletech
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Posts posted by teletech
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I'd suggest you might want to add your location to your profile to get the most relevant answers/offers.
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I took the turret off the ring and pulled the ring after, I don't know that you can really do it any other way.
The ring is pretty easy to manage for one guy with a little leverage and care or an easy lift for two.
My basket was already pretty well disconnected from the turret so it was a simple matter to finish up so I could lift the turret.
I don't know how I could have pulled the basket with the turret, the bearings and brackets were a mix of rotted and seized.
I also removed the rest of the basket in sections, no lifting tackle needed and the commutator assembly was one of the last bits to come out.
I would suggest removing the elevation gearbox early as it hangs down a fair bit. I just removed the bottom of it and that worked OK.
Dear Pavel,Thank you for the answers, great ones, don't put yourself down, I like your methodology as I know you work on your own.
Did you separate the ring from the hull and lift that with the turret or did you split it above that?
Do you think damage can occur if you leave the backet in place and just lift the turret?
2 tons is kind of where I was heading
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I don't have good answers for you but I'll share what I do know in case it helps:
It's heavier than one might expect, Most of two tonne I'd say.
I used a pallet rack and a set of four large ratchet straps to lift it off and suspend it in the shop. I expect to lift the vehicle up under the turret to reinstall.
Of course I separated the basket and such so I only had to lift several inches.
My commutator assembly was pretty frozen up so I just yanked the whole mess off the floor pan.
Can anyone give me a roughly accurate weight of the turret?I realise we do not have the main armament in ours so it will be lighter but we are planning on removing the turret and I would like to have heavy enough lifting tackle/
Is there a cheat method of taking it off that makes it easier? What about the commutator ring at the bottom, any advice?
If there is a specific manual that covers this a manual number would be good to go buy one.
thanks in advance
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Yes i have looked on the 2 links regular but im looking for a tank with a gun not an armored vehicle like the spartan they are cool but its not what i told my son i would get for the years we have left. sabre or simitar is what im looking at
If you get a Spartan with the Milan turret it looks pretty cool but I can understand wanting, as a friend calls it, the spinny bit. :-)
I know of a Falklands Sabre in the USA that needs total restoration for ~$40000USD.
When I was looking a year or two ago, all the nice Scorpion/Sabre/Scimitar types I saw started around £21500 with total wrecks for a bit less than half that.
If it makes you feel any better, in the USA people are asking a lot more so you can think of 22K as a real bargain:
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If you have to stretch that much to make the initial purchase, it's not time.
No mater how nice it is, there is likely something that will break or not go as it should and it's gonna cost you a couple extra grand. So wait until you've got a cushion so you don't wind up broken down and unable to afford a recovery and spares, you'll sleep better at night.
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The first Meteors were actually made from Merlins, including crashed ones that were recovered but no longer flightworthy.
An engine that fell from the sky is a Meteor, makes perfect sense.
I know for trials the CVR(T) was fitted with a big V-8 aft where the turret basket had been. The turret was removed and a big rollbar fitted. It was done to see how fast you could push tracked armour. I gather the track pads started coming apart ~88mph.
The diesel programs variously implemented for the CVR(T) all constitute a power increase The Styer motor is basically the same as a high-end BMW and was used in Repaircraft "world's fastest tank" . The Cummins 6BT conversion done for the MOD uses a uprated gearbox as well and the 6BT used is set very mild, one could coax over 1000 HP from a modded engine. Cooling and gearbox become the limiting factors quickly but if one sacrificed some armour to improve air flow and get the weight down one could easily get something that would be willing to snap tracks. Of course there are track alternatives that might hold up better now as well. How badly do you want it and how deep are you pockets is what it comes down to.
People have had fun with M114s though:
http://www.trucktrend.com/cool-trucks/1103dp-1000hp-cummins-shootout-high-tech-vs-old-school/
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Well, I'm in the states so my experience will differ in some respects.
For a military truck they are durable and reliable. That first bit is a critical caveat, I can not stress how much more maintenance- heavy and unreliable they are compared to almost anything civilian made. Although that assumes US and Japanese vehicles... of course you lads have to contend with Lucas electric systems so that might help even the odds.
Just remember the M35 was first built during the early 1950s so a lot of the metallurgy and technology dates from that era.
I did own a 1952 M35 (gas engine) and used it as a daily-driver for almost 2 years with no real trouble (apart from the 4MPG).
Lots of these trucks are in private hands so many of the trouble spots have fixes and there are some nice upgrades (spin-on oil fliters come to mind, oh, and the transmission overdrive)
Parts are readily available.
The multifuel engine is pretty good and will run on about anything burnable including waste oil if you don't mind the increased wear on the injectors (see point 1)
The A2 gearbox is a good one and the electrical system is solid, the turbo is trouble free.
I don't remember about the transfer case, the early deuce used a sprag clutch which WILL grenade if you reverse with it engaged but they might have ditched that by the A2.
Oh, right, power steering is available as a kit but otherwise it's all you. I think its something like 14 turns lock-to-lock and it's a lousy turning ratio at that so eat your Wheatabix in the morning.
The scary part is the brake system, these trucks use an air over hydraulic system and it's a single circuit system so a loss of fluid or airpack failure will result in TOTAL BRAKE FAILURE. Oh, you can use the parking brake (driveline drum) but it's not much help.
Expect a few honest hours a month of basic service and you should be OK.
I'd suggest going to "steelsoldiers.com" for the full scoop.
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Good point, the burn rate of powder can increase or decrease significantly based on just how it deteriorated.
I wouldn't recommend anyone not familiar with reloading and pressure signs try something like this.
Fear not, I won't be subjecting a Webley to such abuse. I'd either use an action massively overbuilt for the round in question (ie P-14 Enfield, 1911 in 9mm,.38spl in a .357, .44sppl in a 44magnum...) or hand-load and go with minimum loads.
Please be VERY careful if you do this!!!Ammo store badly, can result in excessive breech pressures due to deterioration of the charge loading!
Ensure your Firearm is up to the job of high pressure loads before you shoot it.
DONT use it in a very old rifle, the metal structure also changes over many years. & can in some cases weaken!
In certain cases, the pressures produced, can be near Proof round Chamber pressures! repeated firing like this, will eventually cause the steel to fail. With consequences you don't want to think about!....
I had the sad duty to investigate & do a report on a Mortar barrel that had failed in Service. The 'Incident' Killed the surrounding crew of three! The mess involved was something you also do not want to be involved with!
The Proof house in London. Has many examples of small arms that have failed in proof. Illustrating the dangers & Results of incorrect loadings/ Breech pressures causing 'Failures' :embarrassed:
I understand what you would be trying to achieve. But, PLEASE Be careful!......
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Ah, ammunition of uncertain production, you have to love it!
Worst I ever met was some extremely unreliable and corrosive 9mm from Egypt, made in the mid-90s
Second worst was much of the Pakistani .303 I met. Date codes in the mid to late '60s. It almost all worked and produced something like acceptable velocity but the hang-fires were random and impressive: bang, click...bang, click-bang. You pulled the trigger and knew it was going to go off, just not WHEN! Longest I had to wait was 3-seconds, you sure wouldn't want to use that stuff for a mad minute.
On the other hand, I had some Winchester .303 from WWI that was absolutely a joy. Reliable and more accurate than any of the British issue fodder I tried (sorry). The Greek stuff has always been very nice in both .303 and .30-06.
So, I wonder if it's more about the temperature of storage or the initial producer?
I should throw 100rnds of something in a black metal box in the yard for a year and compare that to a box stored on a shelf and another in a freezer. I wonder what sort of ammunition would be most interesting for such a test?
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Seems like the buttering of the surrounding area is a big help but it does seem a bit of a chancy proposition, I think I'll be just bolting in the new motor mount! I'm almost tempted to just bolt on a new rear sponson, it's mostly pretty hidden after all but I'll have a go at the remainder of what I cut off and a spare hatch I have sitting in the pile and see how it actually is to do in practice.
Based on the rot I saw where repairs were done it looks like alloy matters, of course I don't know if that was ten or fourty years ago so it might be that if you keep it painted so it can't get at the atmosphere it's a good long-term solution.
Finding the 701x seems to be the real sticking point so far.
I had a welding shop for years but I mostly ran steel or the common 6061 type aluminum. I got pretty handy welding up broken castings and such but there is a big difference between any of that and this stuff.
I ran just enough MIG Al to know I wanted a nice TIG welder. Actually it wasn't bad but I was trying to do it without a spool-gun.
Speaking of, there exists a whole class of welder (usually a spool gun but stick works too) around the idea of using car batteries. I'm thinking the CVR(T) is a great candidate with the slave start port and the big 24V system so if I could find some wire I'd be inclined to give that a try. http://readywelder.com/ they even have military kits all set up but I might fabricate my own using a very heavy ESAB wire feeder I've got lying around.
I don't need the full 400A for tig since I'm just sticking the thin stuff on and not welding thick plate to thick plate, I'm hoping my ~300A is plenty.
well based on what that article implies, and what another one I read stated(as well as the Wikipedia article), the original armor was simply prone to corrosion stress cracking and they re-formulated it in 1978. Even the article you linked to states at the beginning that welding should be a last resort after all other methods have been considered. Added all up it implies that welding this stuff is a hat-trick IMHO.(
I've never done MIG, so can't comment, but I believe MIG is almost always DCRP in order to melt the filler wire. Their instructions to start with base metal at room temperature and run 400 amps thru the torch + 99% pure Argon is interesting . If this is done, wouldn't the surrounding base metal quickly exceed well above 400F regardless from the high conductivity of AL? I know when I got done, my part was too hot to touch for 2+ hours, but it didn't leak under pressure and that's what I was after.
My old TIG only goes 320 amps regardless, A Miller Dynasty TIG that can crank out 400+ amps is the 700 model at around $12K.
( I only tried TIG DCSP once on AL just out of Curiosity. What I remember is I could see the layer of Oxide floating on top like a crust, while the metal underneath liquefied and then dripped or sagged down. What they taught me in school was that the purpose of the AC wave was break/shatter the oxide layer and that allows you to weld the metal underneath. The only problem I have is my old machine does not have adjustable AC frequency control, the AC is rather slow and you can hear it slowly crackling whereas on the new machines it's so fast it sounds like a high pitched buzzing. The end result Is I have to use more power than I would under ideal conditions, but at least I have the square wave that keeps the arc fairly stable.
Have not tried Helium mixes either but from what I remember the HE gives you a wider and shallower weld puddle for thinner sections?
Anyway, I don't consider myself a professional welder by any circumstances . I just do it because I have to as part of my job. Thankfully AL is typically not on the menu and it's always a little stressful. I could have 2 or 3 days machining time to create my parts, and then in the welding booth I will either finish the job in an hour or 2 or possibly wind up with a pile of garbage that sends me back to the mills and lathes for round 2. That's more excitement than I typically crave
Let us know how you make out on the 7017, it should be an interesting experience.
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The plot thickens, I just found this article dealing more with aluminum-lithium armor than the AL-Zn-Mn that I'm dealing with but the interesting bit is they used two different alloy filler rods twisted together to get a more chemically useful mix and that might have some applicability to my project.
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I've got a miller Dynasty so I'm pretty set for a TIG welder.
Apparently, armour is a bit unusual in that preheat is normally contraindicated due to the particulars of the alloy and the softening effect, they recommend buttering as a solution to face cracking. I would love to get the right filler but since I can't even seem to find material for the patch... I can tell you whatever they used before didn't work out.
I found a somewhat useful guide for MIG welding but still nothing useful for TIG using these alloys.
Aluminium Armour Welding(8 Nov2011).pdf
Normally for heavy Al repair Helium or He/Ar does a better job of energy transfer and one can use DC TIG with proper cleaning to dump double the heat as balanced AC but I just don't know in this case.
I have TIG wleded a fair amount of AL lately, not 7XXX series, 6061, but the same principles apply. First and foremost, pre-heat is a must to around 400F or you will get cold-cracking as soon as you move the weld puddle . Even with pre-heat, I was pushing well over 250 amps into it at first on 1/4" material , then backing the pedal off as the material heats up.I used an 1/8" Zirconiated rod, 1/2" lens(cup) and pure Argon. A water cooled torch is a must, as well as a high frequency over-lapping square wave on the AC setting. If you can find a machine with adjustable HF then all the better although your into a pretty expensive welder at this point.
I also would not use old material as filler, filler rod for TIG is specially formulated and typically differs from the base metal a little, usually the addition of some alloying agent, 1% of this or that. This is to prevent corrosive stress cracking, an example would be 300 series stainless where they add 1% titanium, etc.
Your biggest problem will be getting all the surrounding metal hot enough so it doesn't suck all the heat out of your weld, especially with pieces that big. Anything you can remove from the surrounding structure will help here.
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Any good experiences welding Al armour here?
The rear sponson on my CVR(T) was quite badly damaged plus somebody patched it with some 6061 or something and the patch just rotted out in a most impressive manner. I wound up cutting it off entirely. Now I need to find some compatible material for a replacement as well as some filler.
It's about 7'1"x6"x.25" but larger would be fine (up to a point of course).
It's 7017 so I believe I can use any of 7017, 7018, 7020, 7039, 5059, 5083.
The documents I can find give instructions for MIG so I'd have to find some wire as well.
I was actually wondering if folks had tried TIG on this stuff? If so I could just cut some thin strips off the good material I cut off and use that as filler.
thanks,
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It's interesting, I just removed a Dowty seal from my gearbox/clutch and it was marked for direction. It wasn't in hopeless condition either but getting pretty firm. The replacement was one from Argus, it was a silicone-colored brick and quite supple.
Bought from TheXmod: https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=2836&t=Seal_Plain_FV658647
I've not seen any good deals on the output shaft seals though.
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Green Machine Surplus has some pretty fair sized panels of perhaps slightly newer material for sale of late:
http://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/armoured-vehicleinterior-padding-3193-p.asp
Sadly they don't ship them so it's all for you lads nearby.
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wow-everything a cvrt should be. UK should have done this a long time ago.
looks like an ex Belgian one with up armoured louvres-wonder whose diesel engine is in it?
I agree that it would be interesting to get a look in the engine compartment.
Supposedly Jordan used the Alvis diesel conversion but that doesn't look right for this vehicle:
Based on the lack of the new air inlet the cummins 5.9 seems unlikely, It hasn't got the RepairCraft S-200 upgrade louvres,
With the lack of damper upgrades, storage bins, and off-aimed old-style headlamps one might wonder if it might be just a proof of concept vehicle and might even still be a petrol chassis?
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Oh, that's sort of amusing. Looking at the side view I notice they still have the armstrong dampers fitted, upgraded indeed!
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If someone has a copy, I'd love the IPC page for the steering calipers.
Should be in AESP 2350-T_220-711 chap 47 or 48.
Are there digital copies of these documents around? I have a half-dozen of the 2350-T-221-mumble manuals I got on a CD...
thanks,
P_
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With a remote weapons pod fitted you could just add a few hydraulic servos in the driver's area and you have a fun little remote control vehicle.
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I'd love to see inside the turret, I'm guessing it must be a one-man job but I wonder how the interior is arranged?
Bonus points for the optics being right above the gun.
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Seems like I saw this upgrade last year but I guess it's official now.
http://worlddefencenews.blogspot.com/2016/05/new-cvrt-reconnaissance-vehicle.html
I wonder if Latvia will go for the upgrade but what I really want to know is what happened to the old traverse gearboxes!?!
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I'd really love to get a copy of the parts-breakdown page for the calipers so I can add the part #s to the list of common parts I'm working on to go with the list of tools I've come up with.
I know I should just spend the 75GBP+postage for the tome at some point but I'm trying to wait until I get a consolidated parts order coming as my last XMOD order was over 150GBP just in postage and it wasn't a large order...
Thanks,
P_
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Part of the NBC system of a CVR(T), I'm restoring a Scorpion. Don't feel bad, a couple of the guys knew since I keep pestering them with CVR questions.:laugh:
I think I need that explained a bit, to the NBC system of what? :red:trevor
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I think it's to connect a respirator to the NBC system
That makes perfect sense, the big end clips over the filter inlet and the small end goes to a supply hose.
Thanks much.
hello from belgium
in Introductions & Welcomes
Posted
Terwagne, welcome aboard from the USA, those CCKWs are fun toys. I had the replacement, an M35, for a few years.
Yes, I fear our new member from Belgium will be shortly inundated with requests from all of us with CVRT (me too please). :-)