MatchFuzee

Ready made ones here (near bottom of page)

http://www.ww2fabrications.com/britishsaslrdg.htm

With a Lincoln battery that has lasted 12 years, I think you may have answered the question yourself and you will be buying another from them.

http://www.lincon.co.uk/classic_car_batteries.html

Sorry Sean and Matchfuzee !

 

I am really grateful for your help . I won a Landrover at Withams and had to get that back so my eye was off the forum. I reckon that you are right Sean , and will PM you to arrange to purchase the joint you have.

 

Thanks

 

Jim

At least it will be easier to find parts for the Land Rover than the Eager Beaver.

By chance, I came across this and wonder if it is the part that you are looking for:-

http://www.buyexmilitarysurplus.co.uk/products/Tracta-Joint-620mm-LV6%7B47%7DMT9-2530%252d99%252d836%252d3508-J57.html

These sites may help:-

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14037

http://www.mafva.net/other%20pages/starmer%20camo.htm

If you are interested in the history of the TAF Ashtray you could contact the museum's archive:-

http://www.museodidoccia.it/servizi-offerti/archivio.html

Personally, I can't see that they would have been a souvenir for the general public but they could have still been available well after the war at TAF reunions in Italy and even other countries.

Reynolds Boughton RB44 Ex-military communications truck, no lot number yet but listed alphabetically

http://www.brightwells.com/ClassicCarsMotorcyclesAutomobilia/ClassicVehicles/Catalogue.aspx

Interesting post but not conclusive:-

http://www.warrelics.eu/forum/airborne-special-forces/airborne-wheelbarrow-73951/

Have you tried?

http://www.bedfordenthusiastsclub.com/

In an ideal world, new is best. If you do straighten it, better bent hot than cold.

That is a good thought and should work well on a wooden former. I'll try it!

 

Steve

I think that you should soak the wood before you turn it, soaking the former will make it larger than required unless you know how much to allow for expansion of the former, although turning wet wood might be a problem.

If you use a "dry" former you could drill most of it out and then burn out what is left.

A set of braked castors on the frame would be a useful addition.

I should have added the contents of this post to my first post.

The black goo is tank sealant so it is gasoline and water etc. proof.

If you are sure that the marks are rust and you bought the tank from a business and not a private seller, you should take it back and ask them to pressure test it because unless there has been some metal inside the tank since the sealant was applied the rust must have come through the sealant. If the rust marks have come through the sealant it means that the tank is ever likely to leak.

Should you decided to clean and reseal the tank yourself I would recommend NOT cutting the tank because unless you have completely purged all the gasoline vapours there is a risk of a spark or other heat source causing an explosion and serious injury or worse.

This page has a few answers for removing tank sealant:-

http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=2099944454&frmid=5&msgid=950427&cmd=show

Tank sealing:-

http://www.austin7.org/Technical%20Articles/Sealing%20Fuel%20Tank/

Illustrated parts catalogue at:-

http://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/eager-beaverfork-lift-illustrated-parts-list-466-p.asp

Ian, I have a number of ideas, one of which you might like to use. As it would take me a long time to fully explain them here, I have sent you a PM with my phone number so you can give me a call when it is convenient for you, unless you have solved it already.

Interesting about speed limits for resilient tyres but no discussion about tyre wear, so I thought that paragraphs 6.2 and 6.3 in the British Industrial Truck Association's Guidance Note - Tyre Tread Wear are worth reading.

www.bita.org.uk/download?code=5237066f73b79

the scimitars are in fact SEAXES which was a SAXON WEAPON the crown is also saxon in design the use of seaxes appears

on a couple of wartime divisional sign of ww2 if you google Middlesex home guard Wembley division you will see the same design as RICHARDS transfer its very british weapon

Until your post, I hadn't heard of seaxes, although the heraldic ones don't bear much resemblance to the original knife or sword, I have learnt something new today, thank you.

Is the second sign British or could it be from a commonwealth country? As the Royal Army Physical Training Corps have crossed swords and a crown, I wonder if another country is using scimitars and a crown for their Physical Trainers.

Although this is for model makers, it shows you how to mix the colour (mainly in Humbrol) so that you would have a sample to take to the paint mixer.

http://www.mafva.net/other%20pages/starmer%20camo.htm

Perhaps you being a guinea pig has helped the injured on Men's Hour:-

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b04vk6px

The injuries that you and the "Men's Hour" contributors have suffered make me think that I should not complain at my "twinges".

Good wishes for 2015

Unless you only want to borrow the DVD, you will find plenty on eBay.

Not a vehicle in sight but I hope that you enjoy:-

Seasons greetings,

MatchFuzee

No volume 11 on Abe Books ( http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchEntry ) either, so it looks as if you have the complete set.

Soda blaster for cleaning small parts:-

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/