gritineye

Actaully mate it's called Discalculia with numbers. The other symptom is difficulty remebering faces (That's my excuse!)

For gooness sake Tony do you know how long it took me to spell duslexia?

Thanks Mike, so now I'm thinking the simplest thing to do would be use that .75 for everything and forget all the size stuff, use the same colour for every where and colour code with heat shrink at the terminals.

Thanks lowfat, but I've been at those things all afternoon and matching it all up is way too much for someone as numerically dyslexic as me, yes I really am that bad at it.

I do need a just simple list.

Somebody please help me! :banghead:

I'm trying to buy wire for rewiring my 1928 6 v Chevy and this has been giving me a headache all day , and there must be others who would benefit from knowing what size of wire to use when rewiring a 6 v vehicle.

Found plenty of info on converting 6 v to 12 v, and some info on AWG sizes for 6 volt, but nothing simple in the metric wire sizes sold in UK.

Just can't get my head around all the watts amps wire gauge metric nonsense..:sweat:

Has anyone got a simple easily understood list of metric sizes for a 6 volt loom?

Headlights 36 w.

Sidelights 5w

Stop lights/indicators 21w

Dynamo feed wire

Battery to ammeter feed wire

Here is what I have to replicate with the addition of 2 extra rear stop tail lamps an an indicator circuit.

Any help would be gratefully received !

Love it or hate it....

http://www.deichkraft.com/der-gute-ansatz/

What a lovely car, Bernard! Don't worry - the winch on my trailer will shake it off your back no problem. :cool2: on second thoughts perhaps it won't fit in with my collection

Is this better for you Tony?

Do you have those problematic emission control poppet valves in the butterflies? They can lead to sudden rough running if a spring breaks. If so change to plain butterflies or solder the valves shut.

Paul, the newness of the cap makes no difference to the formation of condensation, this was a common problem when trialing in winter, don't be tempted to spray WD40 in the cap and then start the motor immediately, that can make those dizzy caps blow clean off.

Voice of experiance..

Check for any leaks or blockages in the flame traps and hoses, they can seriously affect the mixture.

Bernard I think you are confusing the goat with the farmer's wife, this always leads to complications :shake:

That's why I never became a shepherd Clive, I was too worried about having the same problem with sheep ......:sweat:

Lovely goat you have there!

That's goat not Clivs, his breed more has nostril hare...

What I like about these threads is that I learn a useful new technique every visit, keep 'em coming chaps, much appreciated. :bow:

We have used Morris's 250 SAE in back axles and gearboxes and 30 or 40 SAE in engines since the 1970s both in my own and customers vehicles. We have never had a problem, do not use multi-grade ,EP oils etc. as they have a distinctive dislike to white metal and yellow metals as previously mentioned. A point not previously mentioned is that in the early days thick oil was used in axles and gearboxes as much as to keep it in the casing rather than its lubrication properties, grease was also used, remember not much in the way of seals in those days. In London, the City of London and MET police made life very difficult for the bus operators 1905 /7 in applying frequent fines for dropping oil onto the road, subsequently the LGOC introduced cast aluminium trays integral with the sumps etc. to retain this oil.

Richard Peskett.

Much of the underside and engine compartment of this car are covered with up to and inch of oil/sand concretions that testify to that Richard, due to a bottom end rumble I've been removing shims from the bearing caps and can confirm the are no seals whatsoever in this engine... the rockers (yes folks OHV in 1914 design) are lubed by hand and have an oil soaked mat covering them under a dust cover.

I've got some Morris's straight 30 for the engine but I can get much cheaper from local tractor dealers, not sure if there's much difference.

What a lovely car, Bernard! Don't worry - the winch on my trailer will shake it off your back no problem. :cool2:

:nono: Mine all mine.....there are others in my household who love it more than Forceful, for some obscure female reason

This is an interesting option but the "mixer" doesn't give any results of using homemade 600w oil.

 

http://modelaclub.com/archives/tech-tips/687

That may well work but I read somewhere that straight STP on it's own does the job....lot of miss info out there, I have my own workshop mixer but think I'll give it a miss...

The car followed me home, I couldn't shake it off :-D

Bernard;

Here in the US, the Model T and Model A suppliers carry that grade of oil.

 

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/190

 

John G

Thanks John that seems foolproof but I need some asp, so local is better for me.

Im suprised at Morris's the MD has a vintage Model A Ford van. No doubt it should use 600W oil!.

To be fair he said straight 140 would be OK but without conviction, he also suggested K4000 EP, http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/k4000ep-semi-fluid-grease.html

I use the compounded 460 steam oil in the back axle of my Austin 7.

Thanks for your input, I'll go with that as it seems to be what early Ford owners prefer from what I've read.

I have a 1928 Chevy that uses obsolete 600W gear oil in the gearbox and back axle, does anyone use a modern equivalent of this oil and if so where can it be bought from?

I asked Morris oils tech dept and I didn't get a firm answer, lots of inconclusive stuff on Google.

I may well be wrong here, but as I understand it if an insurance company has taken your money you're covered for legal minimum whatever mistakes or omissions are made by either party.

Sorry to butt in but are we allowed to make replica weapons? I thought it was illegal to build your 'own' replicas. Forgive me if I have got this wrong.

Beat me to it, I was about to ask the same, I'm sure I could make one indistinguishable from the real thing.

Richard, it's considerably bigger - difficult to measure in the packaging, but about 8.25" x 4" x 1.75"

I'm only going by memory of the size, but could it be MT/TT/FG2351/101 Scammell Explorer engine oil filter?

That engine sits in there like it was made for it, nice work that should serve you well, I like it a lot.....:thumbsup:

Finally, the nut was secured by inserting a split pin. This is a very unusual arrangement where the pin lies in a slot on the side of the king pin. It doesn’t inspire confidence but it must have been done for a reason and seems to have worked.

Could the reason for that arrangement be that grease pressure would be lost if the pin went through the middle of the hollow kingpin?

Another step closer mate :thumbsup: bell me any time you need a hand...

Sound very much like a progression jet issue to me Mike.

Weighs about 80 lb, very incontrovertibley scientific!

Had this winnable argument years ago in regards to lorry loads of ballast, sometimes the water would still be pouring out of the lorry tailgate when it arrived.