gritineye

1 = narrow road

2 = probably prudent to fold wing mirrors in

A friend of mine was staying at a caravan site this week, its still on the trailer, no bonnet or engine covers. [ATTACH=CONFIG]97198[/ATTACH]

Private Benjamin, owned by caravan site owners son, fitted with a Cummins L10 as per the current fashion :thumbsup:

Congratulations Lauren, wishing you both a happy life together.

You're not alone in this, I've noticed that effect lots of times, it has even stopped me posting some videos on the web because although I know the road speed was quite acceptable the video made it look much too fast for the situation.

So rather than field the negative criticism that has been the result in the past I just watch them at home...

I think the effect of a wide angle lens on the scenery has something to do with it, like the opposite of a wide angle mirror which makes cars appear to get further away quicker than real life when you accelerate away from them.

What seems to be a representation of vegetation around the object (includes a few spiders) is different from the material inside the boxes, so is it some sort of drying chamber for animal feed/bedding/ or peat?

Not sure how a Pioneer differs but I've done this job a few times on my Explorer, 2 petrol engine changes and 1 diesel.

I made a pair of trammels using a couple of coupling bolts, drilled in the end, inserted some steel rod bent to approximate the shape, the spring in the rods allows enough adjustment, so no need to make the separate pointer on the end of one of them.

It's important the gearbox mountings are all sound, without any lift, slack or perishing.

I found it very difficult to get things absolutely perfectly in line by adjusting the engine position, I got it pretty close though...then I came to the conclusion that except when cruising along on a trailing throttle, the engine movement due to torque reaction would put everything out of line most of the time, so I left it like that, never had a problem with couplings in 18 years.

What a great sight that was!

Thanks Tim..

Nice work John, that tank is great, real engineering talent going into this build...:thumbsup:

Sounds like a plan! Who's organizing this run?

Sorry Chris, what I meant by size was the rough diameter of the conductor wires as a guide..

I've found some nice old welder lead in stock, it's 6mm diameter copper must be 100 strands, so I'll be using that I think.

The thinner wire for larger voltage had slipped my mind so thanks for the reminder, you've been a great help and I think I'm all good now so thanks again:tup::...

Good call on the capacitors Lauren, the insulation on some cables very dry and doesn't like being disturbed, thanks.

Reckon I'll make up a pair of "Cable, Electric, P11"s, do you know the cable size by any chance Chris?

Or maybe point me towards a web pic of some?

EDIT: found one on here, but those cables don't look any bigger than the ones I was using, hmm...

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?12162-1963-BSA-24-volt-300-watt-Charging-Set

Thanks for your input Chris, I have been checking and cleaned/tightened all connections and then got it turning slowly but without enough strength to overcome compression.

The answer was the charging cables where too small, so too much resistance, I used some proper jump leads and it's working OK now :-D

I have an ex reserve stock BSA charging set, it was all sealed up with no oil in it, so presumably OK when stored. It all looks like new, and it's had very little use since I've had it, only charged a couple of batteries.

It's never started using the start button since I had it, so I thought I'd have a look inside,

The only thing I could find wrong with it was the insulation cracked and falling off the wire to the capacitor attached to the positive side of the choke, using the old connectors I soldered a new wire in there to fix that.

Has anyone had this problem and what was the cure?

Is there a test procedure I can run with a multimeter?

here's the wiring diagram..

No one seemed able to resist peeking down the barrel of Steves LongTom,so we put a smiley face inside, poked it in further than an arms length ........someone nicked it!

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Any progress?

None that I know of, still on the back burner....

 

Also, that idiot that has to tells you that his uncle has one of these vehicle, but its better than yours! I have no time for that idiot either. That idiot cant remember what his 'uncle' has, or where he lives, but its heaps better than mine, and his uncle was also a general in the army and navy at the same time. My response to this idiot......... 'Go away'!

 

Regards, OZITIM

Reckon we've all had those, had one bloke looking at the Rugged Robin who came over and declared he knew the man who built that, but I'd never seen him before in my life!

Some of the stuff that's told to me about my Scammell Explorer is pretty hard to believe too!

It doesn't annoy me I just humour them, they can come out with some funny stuff that just adds to the daftness round the fire later on..

My pleasure.........................where do I send the bill!!!! :cool2:

No need for a bill these days my friend, just go to my website weislivinitupinlagos.com and enter your bank account details sortcodes/pin nos/mothers maiden name/passwords (all accounts) and I will promis to make you richer than your wildest dreams!

:trustme:My accounts and assets are all frozen/blockeed right now so please be patient for a year or two, yes youcan trust me my friend...

Thanks for taking the time to post all your very interesting responses guys, there are a few things I hadn't thought of, like security ( I have a lockable living trailer) and reluctance to talk to a microphone (doesn't apply) and not having an ' unique enough' vehicle, and a few others.

Brooky has saved me some mental effort as he has almost written my planned reply word perfect for me..:thumbsup:

Seems to be very W&P orientated answers on here!!

There are other shows up and down the country every weekend (Vintage vehicle rallies, steam rallies etc) that green machines attend

I think that given the time the effort (not to mention the finances) that go into organising these events where we the exhibitor 99 times out of a hundred gets in for free and camps all weekend for free that it is only good form to get your vehicle into the arena.

Most rallies/shows dont have you queing for hours and yes I agree that a bit of communication between the stewards and the exhibitors would make things go a bit more smoothly, but surely we can give up half an hour of our time to put on a display.

Moving vehicles are far more impressive than those parked in a line!!!

I do understand that the vehicle may be part of a display and in that case probably impractical to come into the arena but there are stiil a load that could and dont.

As an example I will be at a show this coming weekend that always has a good military section.

I will bet a pint that under half the section make the effort.

I do like to participate at shows and as TooTallMike says, where we were at WPR we had almost no public passing, so as Rugged Robin had a overheating problem and didn't make the arena, I parked Rugged Robin by the 'ring road' on a few show days so visitors could spot him and I sat nearby.

I know this might seem a little showy offy but I get a lot of fun from having very silly conversations with the public and they seem to as well, all very pleasant....:-D

Well that's a first, a pop up subliminal add for Chrisg...:rotfl::rotfl:

sorry folks, in joke!

Interesting vid,

I think Andy has some footage somewhere of Forceful helping him get back under the trailer neck in the mud, which would be good edited to yours and my vid of him loading outside the show.

I usually try to take my vehicles into the arena whenever there's an appropriate slot.

I'm just interested to know why so many people don't take their vehicles into the arena at shows...

This has been around for some years...

Couple more tips.

The calipers on the diff assembly will obviously be small rear ones, usually best to fit big 4 pot front ones, even ventilated discs if poss.

We had problems with very rapid pad wear when using the fiddles hard all day, which meant the fluid level would go down a lot faster than you would normally expect, not good when it was all gone and air got in the system, so best to select a master cylinder with as big a fluid reservoir as possible.

Thanks Grit,

 

ok the drive train,, simple really,,

 

first part--the engine-- I have a 2.7 Nissan diesel engine that will be mated to an lt77 gearbox. this is to be mounted in the rear of the vehicle. next will be a short propshaft leading to the diff. At the moment I am currently seeking a jaguar rear diff (the sort with the on board disk brakes) this will be cut down so it ends just past the disc brakes, and outboard of each disk I will mount a pair of sprockets. (2 a side for spreading load and redundancy). These will have a heavy industrial chain connecting them to the final drives right up hard against the nose of the tank.. To steer I intend to simple operate each of the diffs brakes independently each one having its own servo. when a brakes a pplied the diff will channel the power via the path of least resistance and thus should give us a turn. so far as I have been able to find out this is not far off how the real tank did it.

I like it, similar to fiddle brakes we used on our trialers, a cunning plan that should allow easy sprocket changes if the gearing needs tweaking!

I'm sure you've though of this but in case you haven't, a common mistake with using a single caliper is to use too large a bore master cylinder, ie. a classic Mini one will work a 4 pot RR front caliper without a servo, with a servo even better.