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DFC1943Fl.Lt.

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Posts posted by DFC1943Fl.Lt.

  1. 16 minutes ago, BC312 said:

    As a member of the reenacting community they are now charging £20 fee for each reenactor to reenact at the show. So you have to pay them the privilege to lug your collection and vehicle to the show plus petrol at now inflated cost. Makes you wonder how much the Second Battle group and other large groups have to fork out per group with Vehicles as well. Look like most will be skipping this show seeking shows where they are appreciated to make their show. Victory show for me.

     

    Steve Pepper at the Victory Show has what it takes to put on and look after those that bring the vehicles to the event. Last year was awesome, 4 days of bliss. Another show which is great is the YWE Show, it's a long way for us to travel but worth it. We will be supporting our local shows instead of the W&P Show this year. Such a shame that greed has come between having and not having an amazing show. 

  2. I think this is the final nail in the coffin. I  deferred my ticket but the lads that now have to pay £125 they are not prepared to also pay for the fuel getting there and back. Looks like I will be losing my £50 as I'm not going on my own. The owner has no interest in our hobby as such, just in making a massive profit. While I appreciate it must make a profit, he hasn't got the insight that if no vehicle's turn up, what's the point in the public turning up. I fear the show will crash this year and will be the end of an era. Sad, very sad.

  3. Hi all,

    I'm in need of a GPW or Willys engine for sale. Block with head if possible for restoration. Needs to be in reasonable condition without the usual welded crack below the distributor. My engine in my Willys is a post war cj2 so would like to replace it. Any help would be appreciated and don't really want to take a mortgage out to buy one.

    Thanks in advance

    Steve.

      

  4. Hi Jessie thanks for your reply. All 3 are repro tops but the short one looks quite new. One of the others is bran new? Never been fitted. It's just typical that the one I want to use won't fit. Don't really want to mess the altering the windscreen. Will have to sell it on, it's a great colour as well. Looks like a 'Beachwood' canvas, it's got that original sort of green/tan colour to it.

     

     

  5. Hi all, bit of a problem with one of my jeep top canvas's. I have 3, two with the latter rear hole for the jerry can strap, one with the plastic rear window and one without and 1 which just has all the rear tabs. The problem I have is that the one I want to fit to the jeep, which is the one which straps all the way across the back as the jeep is an early 42 scripted without the jerry can holder, is too short. I have measured all 3 from the front, windscreen end to the midway position and the canvas which has all the straps at the rear, the one I want to use is 100mm/4" to short, 2 measure 90cm the other one I want to use is 80cm. The other two will fit ok. Is there any difference normally between summer tops. Looing forward to some input on this.

    Many thanks Steve.    

  6. 10 hours ago, Chris Hall said:

    10 06 42 must convert to 6th Oct 1942, I take it the motor doesn’t match your frame number?

    Unfortunately not. Chassis number is 19661 so we are looking at about May, April time I reckon. 

  7. On 4/18/2021 at 9:22 AM, Rootes75 said:

    Are you going to use the original loom or use it as a pattern to get a new one made?

    I got a new loom from Gavin at jeeparts, thought it would be easier and it's all the correct colour coded cabling. 

  8. Well I finally got my starter motor repaired and got the engine turning over. Though I would drop the sump and take a look at the bog end shells. Not too bad and the bores only have a light dusting of powdery rust which has come off with the engine turning over. Next is tub back on and rewire or is it best to install most of the wiring with the tub off. Best of all was finding the date on the block, 10-6-42.20210424_171249.thumb.jpg.14bdb44e6b0869ee3356dca37c83bd4a.jpg

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    • Like 1
  9. 8 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

    All looking good Steve. Have you looked on the Airfix/modellers forums ? They are usually very accurate for details like paint schemes. 

    Yes Seamus have been on a couple of those sites and some say that a jeep side body is not a large enough platform for a MME camo to look correct. They are saying that the camo should be like a continuous black top and bottom but that leaves a bit of a green 'go faster' stripe which does not look correct. Have tried to look for an official paper regarding this camo but as of yet not found anything relating to how it should look on a jeep.  Can't find any wartime photos which are clear enough either. 

    • Like 1
  10. Gradually getting there. Just a bit of touching up inside the wheel arches then tub back on. Biggest headache will be the wiring loom, got a box full of spaghetti lol. What are the thoughts on the MME pattern, not sure how it is supposed to look. Been on some of the various forums and there is a lot of confusion over what it should look like.

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    • Like 1
  11. Just now, 67burwood said:

    How does it compare to the mig welder?

    To tell you the true, I was brought up on gas welding and arch. Never been able to get the hang of Mig or Tig welding. I personally love gas welding as you have more control over the weld with regards to the heat/flame. I have found that with gas welding you can feed the rod in at your own speed but with mig it's a constant feed and you have to keep going. If the wire speed is not correct it shoots out like a bloody rocket. It's no doubt down to what you prefer and get on with.    

    • Like 1
  12. 1 minute ago, steviem said:

    Great work,  it's good to see these old wardogs being put back on the road. 

    Yes buddy, trying to keep as much of the original tub as possible as it was in quite good condition. Managed to get hold of the centre floor gearbox section from a mate as the one in the jeep was cut about badly, it's gone in quite well. Hat channels were a nightmare, trying to get the floor to stay in line as I had to cut out a 3" complete section out of the floor from side to side. 

    • Like 1
  13. 31 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

    It’s coming along well👍

    Cheers Seamus, your not taking any at all getting the Wot looking good. Just bought myself a little inverter arch welded, what a difference that has made with regards to the welding up the floor and hat channels. 

    • Like 1
  14. Hi all, anyone know of or has a WW2 British Officers tent for sale. Do not want a small tent or pup, need to be able to stand up comfortably, its an age thing lol.

    Seen some on Ebay and there is a site called Westland*nl which is the not quite the style I'm after. Would like the high sided style. Not worried if it is not in perfect condition so long as it's waterproof. Like mine stuff to look as though it's been there. Price, well I don't want to be held to ransom but not sure what they are going for now.

    Cheers Steve. 

  15. 1 hour ago, DFC1943Fl.Lt. said:

    Bloody just my luck but had a cunning plan. Not sure if it will work but I've taken the yoke off the front cj2 shaft and matched it up with  the rear length of rear shaft. Offered it up and it seems ok, there is play on the slider so fingers crossed. I did notice that the difference between the war time and cj2 front shaft was only the yoke. The actual shaft lengths are the same. So the yoke from the front cj2 shaft takes up the shortfall in the rear shaft. Job done, hopefully. 😬

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    • Thanks 1
  16. 2 hours ago, Nick Johns said:

    Alas looks like you have another CJ Propshaft, their rear props are shorter than an MB/GPW owing to the larger diff housing,.. look in the link below for prop lengths

    https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=154947

    Bloody just my luck but had a cunning plan. Not sure if it will work but I've taken the yoke off the front cj2 shaft and matched it up with  the rear length of rear shaft. Offered it up and it seems ok, there is play on the slider so fingers crossed. I did notice that the difference between the war time and cj2 front shaft was only the yoke. The actual shaft lengths are the same. So the yoke from the front cj2 shaft takes up the shortfall in the rear shaft. Job done, hopefully. 😬

  17. Hi all and thanks for all the input info. Managed to get the front shaft from Gavin at jeeparts uk. Think now the rear is to bloody short, would they be a set from a CJ2. Looking to me like there is too much spine showing. Any thoughts would be a help.

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  18. The whole episode is getting ridiculous now. I'm wondering how much we are going to have to strump up next year. I've paid for a mate and myself £50, but if for some reason you can not be able to go how do you stand for getting the money back. Can't wait to get back down there again and meet up with all our Belgian friends. 

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