guykay

Don't keep us in suspense. What was the very specific reason the timing was set to 0 degrees?

The front offside wheel on my S3 lightweight has a puddle of oil on the floor next to it. It is running down the inside of the tyre from the drum.

I have removed the wheel, drum & hub to replace the seal behind the back bearing. The bearings are taper roller, and the hub is retained by two lock nuts & a tab washer. How tight should I tighten the first locknut?

also my Haynes manual suggests that the part of the stub shaft that the bearings run on is a loose piece. Should I remove this & re-seal with Hylomar or similar?

I was going to say that it seems a little unsporting to go boar hunting with a 30mm RARDON cannon. Not much left for the barby I wouldn`t think either!!

Have you seen this one Robin ?

The photo below should clarify things hopefully.

I will try to shoot a vid of the next time we use Sammy for winching something.

You can see how the end of the fair lead mounts on the lug and clears the access hatch. It is good practice to mount the fair lead end on the lug when rewinding after a winching operation, as this prevents the block traveling over the pulley and damaging the shroud. You will note the shroud is missing from the pulley on my Sammy and draw

your own conclusions about how I discovered this!

As far as I can tell the lug on the RHS of the spade is just for stowing the fair lead. The hole in the lug is exactly the right side for the pin in the end coupling. Also the offset ensures it is out of the way of the dwarf sized opening the crew are supposed to climb in & out of the vehicle from.

If it were for attaching pulleys or the end of the fair lead too when winching, would it not be on the other side of the spade, as when the spade hinges down the lug is then on the opposite side of the spade to whatever you are winching

I'll take a piccy of mine when I get a moment & post it

Did you sort out the poor running of your sarry

sounds a bit like the issue I had with my ferret on that it would run fine for a few miles & then start to miss & loose power untill it eventually ground to a halt. If left to cool down it would then run fine for a while before repeating the problem. Turned out to be the condenser breaking down at high temperature. A new one from Bannisters cured it. Still going strong.

What was the "tactical application" for this infernal device?

I don't think my vehicle was ever fitted with a servo. The brakes would be optimistically called adequate. I think that the servo was fitted to later vehicles, and wondered if it would be possible to fit one to my vehicle

There is a ferret brake servo for sale on eBay. How easy is it to fit to my 2/3 ferret which at present has no servo fitted, and consequently braking is shall we say a rather leisurely affair!!

What s that tracked vehicle towing the empty trailer?

Repro Zenith( not Solex sorry) carbs are generally rubbish. The castings are poor quality & when I put one on my lightweight it ran very roughly. There are forums that tell you to strip them & rub the castings mating faces on a glass sheet with fine emery paper etc, but that seems a bit crap when you have just shelled out for it as new!!

I think it's preferable to get hold of an old original & buy an overhaul kit.

Alternatively fit an SU carb with an adaptor. Talk to the SU people they might be able to help

Quite right, there is a bit of flexible tubing connecting the two steel tubes together, but if they don't line up exactly then the dipstick snags on the join. As the diesel gearbox is identical apart from the front module, then I would have thought you could have modded the petrol dipstick to match the diesel one. I guess the bloke I spoke to was getting confused between the two, but still it seems a good idea

I changed the gearbox on my Samson some time ago and refitted all the bits & pieces including the dipstick assembly that goes through the bulkhead and is accessed in the drivers compartment. This is a bit of a rubbish design and I keep getting the dipstick stuck on the join between the tube coming out of the gearbox & the tube going through the bulkhead.

I seem to remember someone telling me this was done originally as the decks used to be bolted down, but now that they are hinged there is a mod to shorten the dipstick & remove the bit of tube going through the bulkhead. the dipstick can then be accesse by hinging up the gearbox deck & rad. This seems a splendid idea, but I have no clue as to how much I should shorten the dipstick by so that it will still read correctly. Anyone any ideas?

Sorry to show my ignorance, but what's CAST?

I think it asks if you if you need an MOT for the vehicle & then whether you have exemption, rather than just having to put a yes in the "do you have an MOT for the vehicle"

That's interesting. The temperature dependency probably explains why my vehicle makes more of a noise sometimes than others. I am using Morris 20/50 multigrade in the gearbox. That is the viscocity called for in the manual. Is that correct? Also is the additive you mentioned available, and was it approved & taken up by the MOD, or who ever else approves trees things?

Sounds a lot smoother than my Samson. Terry, how is the gearbox cavitation noise easily curable? The noise emanating from my vehicles gearbox seems to come and go go with the weather.

Not sure how you'd get a coffin in there. Wouldn't it stick out the side a bit. Not a particularly stylish way to be transported to your resting place.

Also what's the armoured bit sticking out by the rear wheel for?

whatever the reason, it makes entry & exit from ferret a lot easier than pouring yourself in through the drivers hatch or rattling down through the turret bashing yourself on every sharp edge as you do so!

You all don't know your born. I'm stuck in Barbados. The weather is scorhio, no need for weather protection. Downside is all military vehicles are banned, as is the wearing of any form of camo clothing. Can't wait to get home to the real world

Not trying to be smart here as I did this when I first bought the Samson, but have you rotated the knurled switch to start the fuel pump?

Seen today in carrickfergus. Put on a plinth June this year

looks good at the moment, but I don't know how long that will last next to the sea. Paint is starting to bubble up already

Having repaired rear chassis member, outriggers, brake master cylinder and various bits of body work my attention now turns to the carburetter. The vehicle has never run particularly well on the existing the zenith carb fitted despite a rebuild, and I have bought an SU HS6 off a well known auction site as I have read that the 2 1/4 petrol engine runs well on it. Can anyone tell me the correct needle & jet size for this application. Also where might I get hold of an adaptor?

I was at goodwood revival last weekend & the SU manufacturers were there. They gave me a brochure with every application under the sun apart from the one I wanted. Apparently the mod for the series land rovers was never an official one, hence it's not in the book.

The book however is fantastic (apart from not having what I wanted) it has all the part numbers & rebuild kits for seemingly every SU ever built. Definitely worth having - especially as it was free

so if I can get the part numbers required I can rebuild the HS6 carb and away we go!!

Went to Goodwood last weekend for the revival meeting. Fantastic as usual, with the added pleasure if a load of MV's in the infield. They all paraded around the track on Sunday, even the M10. The programme suggested there was supposed to be more tracked armour supplied by Cadman bros, but none appeared, anybody got any idea what happened to them. Shame really, as it was a fantastic stage to show off our "hobby" to a wider stage.

Ordered mc and servo overhaul kits. Arrived today, fitted this evening. Brakes now spot on. No fade on the pedal. That's the brakes sorted, rear chassis replaced, front outriggers repaired, exhaust centre replaced. Just the dreaded zenith carb to sort out now! It pops & bangs on full throttle, like a misfiring Merlin, with gouts of black smoke pouring from the exhaust.

I think I can see light at the end of the tunnel, or is that just a torch from some other lost soul.

Reg no is as on photo. I have also got a photo of the front drum brake drums, hopefully you can tell me if they are correct for the vehicle. Number on side of mc casting is 64676942Q26. As I said fluid appears to have seeped down the front of the servo steel pressing from the mc. So I guess this is the most likely culprit. Cost of a new mc is about £200.00 guess I'll just have to cough up.