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N.O.S.

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Posts posted by N.O.S.

  1. Most jet and turbo aircraft run on JP5 which is not much higer octane than parrafin.

     

    And the vintage tractor boys just love it 'cos it doesn't smell so bad as parafin (allegedly).

  2. I'm surprised that owners of preserved Constructors who are experiencing problems with the centre bearing, or the prop shafts to the rearmost axle, don't simply take the whole lot off ? Couldn't you just run the vehicle by powering only the first rear axle ? The front wheel drive is there and could be engaged in "sticky" situations. Surely, if one was just poncing about going to rallies and not really working the vehicle, driving only one axle wouldn't make much difference, or would it ?

     

    Hey, 6 X 6, we're talking Scammell Constructor here, none of those Ward laFrance quick-fixes thankyou very much :argh: :n00b:

     

    But I think your previous post summed up very neatly the situation re. gearboxes and propshafts - and gives the respect deserved to "them at Watford" :tup::

  3. abn deuce, you have a good point there (it was also mentioned earlier in the thread) which also has relevance to the gearbox position, for heavy load pulling they were running at 4 - 15mph typically, and not in top gear much of the time either! These beasts were not built for speed, that comes at a high price for preserved trucks, and the gearbox wsn't built for high horsepower either, as has also been mentioned.......

     

    gritineye, I do not believe ballasting would make any difference to prop angles - Constuctor springs are so thick I'm not sure any amount of ballasting would cause them to deflect! And as you say they must have worked the normal running angles out correctly, so what on earth causes the prop problem then?????

  4. A chap I know well was running a breakers yard when farmers were buying the then 'new' E27N, and a lot of quite servicable Standard Fordsons were going for scrap.

     

    Whenever one came in with some fuel in, he would disconnect the governor and make sure engine oil was at correct level. The tractor was then started and allowed to run.

     

    As the engine warmed up and increased in speed, first all the water shot out of the radiator, then the fan blades would fly off, eventually (unless it ran out of fuel) amongst the shrill whine and smoke (at several thousand rpm he reckoned) the glass fuel bowl would shatter and calm descended once more.

     

    When he came to break the engine, he would carefully inspect the internals. He never found a failed (run) white metal crank bearing, which says something for the design :cool2:

     

    My old fitter worked on a farm where the ploughing tractor was a very old Standard with rear exhaust under the axle. In winter the driver would wear an old WW1 trench coat and run a bit of rubber pipe from the exhaust up the back of his coat. His neck was just a tad sooty at the end of the day, but he was never cold :-D

  5. :) What a looker! Could have come straight out of STREET MACHINE magazine, I WANT IT - NOW!

     

    Now, does anyone fancy slamming and chopping a GMC? I'm thinking GMC diff in front axle on tiny wheels, and Chev diffs on rear bogie with big wheels - pity there's not an intermediate ratio for the mid axle to give 3 diameters..........:shake:

  6. Whilst we're off topic :) some big diesels suffer badly with cylinder liner corrosion through electrolysis (Cummins V8s use a water treatment filter to help prevent this) - is this made worse in the boat situation or is it just hull and stuff in direct contact with the water that is in trouble?

  7. Propellers eaton away thro electrolasis poor marina wiring or another boat badly wired

    Are you sure about that?

    There is some authoritive information on this forum about yellow metal in drive trains - they reckon it's the EE PEE additive that does it, so you need to find a marina with straight H2O, without any ee pee additive (it's them drunken sailor types.....) :captain:

  8. No doubt they will free off, but if not, don't panic -

     

    Worst case scenario -

     

    Once the housing is worn oval, you'll probably have a job to keep any bronze bushes tight. Also if you have to get them made they will be ££££££. Possibly shaft will be OK but any play and a new std bush will suffer fast.

     

    If you are up for a "super bodge", how about this - (never failed me yet!)

     

    Get new bushes made from a hard NYLON (in this case recommend S grade, the same as heavy truck spring bushes). And only ££ to get made by comparison!

     

    You may need to do some very careful measuring to get the optimum fit for both housing and shaft, but what happens is the bush will remain a nice press fit in worn housing, the bush simply deforming into worn area whenever load applied rather than break up.

     

    Also to some extent self lubricating, though we always cut greaseways as original. Greasing will keep grit out and prevent hard particles embedding into nylon and then wearing shaft even more.

     

    A brilliant company up in Glasgow, specialising in one-off jobs. Will dig their number out today (long time since used them)

  9. Coming together nicely

     

    (who remebers when you could legally buy and use Calcium Plumbate as a primer for unweathered Galvanizing? On the unfitted wings.

    There is some special paint available now, but very expensive - a friend got some to paint a load of new galv. palisade fencing and had a fit when the invoice came. I'll find out what it is if anyone interested.

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