Richard Farrant

45 minutes ago, mtskull said:

Hi

Can anybody recommend somebody to repair a petrol tank (preferably in the West Yorkshire area)?

The tank in question is approx 20 gallons capacity, measuring 48" long, 12" wide and 10" deep. It is made of galvanised steel, with riveted and solder sealed joints. It is generally sound but unfortunately the last inch of the bottom of the tank at both ends has corroded into pinholes where water has been  trapped between the tank and the chassis outriggers that support it.

We have considered slosh sealants and have had quotations for repairing the tank with a resin coating but, although we will use these methods as a last resort, we would prefer a more traditional repair if at all possible. 

Thanks

Andy

 

Try a radiator repairer as they often repair tanks.

I am surprised this has not come up on the forum already. Bruce Crompton was practicing para jumping in Holland in April, ready to take part in the Daks Over Normandy jumps. However he landed in a tree, became inverted then fell to the ground. Bruce is still in hospital with serious injuries. Check out his Facebook site for more details;

https://en-gb.facebook.com/brucecromptoncollection/

Wishing you well Bruce, in future leave the aircraft after it has landed.

regards, Richard

The link in my last post did not work, this one does, it is another publication from around 1936, explaining the the American screwthreads were standardised in 1928 but a lot of info on alternative pitches in it.

www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1617/3537.pdf

Hi Tony,

Here is a US Government document of 1928 on special threads, it may well be useful in your restoration (this predates Unified of course).

The link did not work, so entering it by hand;

https://GOVPUB-C13-3cc9997c25b5b325f93a6f22367059d7-3.pdf

On 5/8/2019 at 10:52 PM, andypugh said:

It could be something completely special. Or an SI thread even, so ISO metric wont fit either. 

Metric isn’t impossible. About this time Morris were using metric threads with Whitworth head sizes in their engines. 

Morris bought the Hotchkiss armaments factory in Coventry and it was used to manufacture engines and gearboxes (going on memory). The reason for the metric threads was the Hotchkiss machine tooling was set up to produce parts in metric thread form same as the guns they had previously been producing. Hotchkiss being a French company. Some metric screws were still used in the engines of Morris Commercial during WW2, but checking parts lists only in certain locations.

"Do I take it Richard your money would be on a 55' pitch?  the TPI I fairly confident about. 

You can't beat a BSF or Whitworth thread no matter how long it's been sitting around they always come undone with only a little application of heat."

Hi Pete,

I feel sure it would be 55 deg thread angle and the machine shop would be using the same cutting toos on all items such as shafts. My guess is the nut is reasonbly narrow and it would not have had enough threads on it using the standard BSF tpi for that diameter. I have come across this 'special' situation before. Like you, I still think BSF is far superior than what was thrust on us from over the Atlantic. In my 53 years in the trade I have had more trouble with NF threads than I ever have with BSF ............... and as for Metric, I have little time or use for it as I try to avoid modern vehicles nowadays.

6 minutes ago, MB1944 said:

A little pedantic I think. The old SAE threads were standardised into the Unified system  in 1949, but that is not to say that this is not the thread in question.

John

Leyland was a good old British engineering product, the Retriever would not have had any US type threads in it, only BSF , Whitworth and as in this case a special size thread of similar form to affor mentioned.

the only British built trucks of that period using NF and NC were Bedford as the were controlled by GMC and shared some mechanical components with Chevrolet.

I work all day either British vehicles of 70+ years and BSF is a pleasure to use. 

On 1/20/2019 at 9:08 PM, Zero-Five-Two said:

Well, this weekend happened and I'm pleased to say we nailed it.  Took 2 trips, yesterday, with the car delivering all the bits.  Bit too much weight carrying both hubs and drums together.  Early start this morning and cracked on, took all day  but got the right result.

Back plates and rear dirt seal first, and build from there.  Son Stuart assisting, took a hub each and on we go

Shoes next, then hub and drum

Had a couple of minor issues, couple of blocked grease nipples, and one pair of shoes that just would not behave, but otherwise things went fairly well.

Last job, wheels back on.  We've still got to clean the rims, so they will have to come off again later.  Haven't fitted the brake chambers or any of the linkage yet, either.  I'm leaving them off for now to allow more room for chassis cleaning first.

Just one downside!  Having spent most of the day bent over in this sort of position, and lifting heavy drums and hubs, the old spine is protesting violently this evening.  Don't know about "the joy of movement"  the joy of sitting still is pretty good just now, along with some "medicine" to numb the pain.

 

 

Hi mate,

It does not get any easier I can assure you, after 53 years in the trade I can vouch for this !

The point I was making was that the 0EP220 was drained out and replaced by essentially the same grade. Auto gearboxes work through hydraulic principles and that needs a much lower viscosity. Hence why engine oil was specified

I back what Sirhc and Terryb has posted. A heavy oil could cause cavitation in the oil pump and lack of lubrication through the box.

When you say you have changed the oil from 220 hypoid oil to 90, you may not realise that the number 220 is an army code and not a viscosity and in fact OEP220 is basically equivalent to SAE 90 gear oil. Do you have the AESP Maintenance Schedule for this vehicle?

Looks like Nick who used to be a regular on this forum, probably the only Explorer fitted with a Jake brake!

China 1900-1902, I once knew a veteran of that Campaign, he had been in the Boer War before that.

I wonder if it refers back to the Boxer Rebellion as the Royal Engineers were present?

Hi Andrew 

that sounds like the outer output seal on the gearbox. Oddly enough I have just sold the special tool to remove the output coupling. Not a difficult job to do.

regards Richard 

Land Rover ........ but just checked the parts list for Rover 10 and 11 which is military designation for later 2A models and it is not the same number, am guessing this might be for a Series 1.

When there was a special Marshall theme at the Great Dorset Steam Fair a few years ago, I was hoping a Gainsborough might appear, I think there may have been one photo in the display marquee. I do not suppose that many were made as it was a special build for the military as far as I am aware.

Well done Richard

When I first worked for REME, I was in the RE plant section which was great as the variety of equipment and type of work was just up my street. I remember one of the last Gainsboroughs in service came in for repairs. A fascinating machine with its Wilson pre-selector transmission. I found out much later that the tractor was actually designed by Daimler. The old boy I worked with said you needed a 40 acre field to turn it around. Compared to the Allis Chalmers 645 he was not far out!

Your example looks well preserved.

regards  Richard

1 hour ago, trophy160 said:

Is this Saracen wading or swimming?

Wading, probably in the wading tank at Chertsey

15 minutes ago, MartinN said:

I have a Bedford mw. The oil warning light keeps falsely coming on. The switch is us. Doesn't anyone know the part number or is there a modern alternative that will fit? 

 

Martin,

The switch was made by AC-Delco and their part number was 1504644

First place to try is Norman at Bygone Bedfords. You need one with the correct thread, it is not BSP on Bedford engines.

Just an update on Graham who was driving the Stalwart. He has currently had 7 operations so far and was having a skin graft operation today. Still a long way to go and we wish him well.

He has confirmed he was thrown out of the cab as the Stalwart rolled over several times..

regards, Richard

9 hours ago, ruxy said:

A friend went on some internet site to check up on a  used Ifor Williams transporter prior to purchase.  I suppose a site supported by Ifor Williams ,  he mentioned that Ifor Williams trailers were now manufactured in China !   -  I suppose he was reliably informed that this was fact ?   I suppose they would be imported in fully knocked down   -  true/false   ?

Probably false. Just look at their website, a new manufacturing plant just opened and a lot of new jobs advertised on their website 

check out www.iwt.co.uk

Hi Rob,

Glad to hear it is nothing too serious and no major dismantling needed.

regards, Richard

Hi Paul,

You have no other option than to remove the clutch and get the cover set up and adjust on a jig. The adjustment nuts are special and staked so as not to move once set. You will not be able to do this through the inspection hole. Full details are in the Dodge manual, TM10-1531

As regards the idea of fitting washers between cover and flywheel, not a good idea, better to do the job properly to ensure a good life of the clutch.

regards, Richard

1 hour ago, paul connor said:

 

 

I have a Dodge WC54 I am working on, and I have installed a new clutch. The flywheel was skimmed, as was the clutch pressure plate, but this was minimal, more to clean. After installation of the gearbox today, I rotated the output shaft at the rear of the gearbox with the gearbox in neutral and it rotates freely with no noises or resistance. However, when I depress the clutch and rotate the output shaft, it rotates but sounds as if the clutch is still binding and giving resistance. I furthermore adjusted the linkage and no change, so how would I go about removing this issue, which I guess is binding?

 

 

 

Paul,

You say that the pressure plate was skimmed, for this to be done on a Borg & Beck clutch cover, it has to be dismantled and therefore the clutch lever adjustments will have to be reset when the cover is reassembled. Another possibility is having a driven plate with a slightly different hub centre with it fouling the levers on their depression.

regards, Richard

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