Richard Farrant

3 hours ago, mike30841 said:

I have had problems with my Bedford OX for several years - basically, the ignition coil overheats after a few miles and then dies so that it is impossible to restart the engine until things cool down. Does anyone know if an electronic ignition setup would cure this problem? Has anyone fitted electronic ignition and what are your experiences of it? Who supplies them?

Any advice gratefully received.

Hi Mike,

I would suggest that you have an incorrect coil. It is entirely possible that although the coil is for a 12 volt system, it could be a ballast resistor type used on a modern vehicle, possibly only designed to have 9 volts or so running through it. I have come across this a few times. If you do go down the electronic ignition route, then fit a new coil that is recommended. I have fitted Powerspark kits on a number of vehicles and they transform the running and starting.

1 hour ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

Thanks Richard, it was watching Paul do the other one that pointed me in the right direction.

Looking forward to going to Woodchurch, but not with Tanker. I intend getting her in DBG before she is seen in public.  Will be tarting up the Timber Tractor tomorrow.  We'll have a chat at some point over the weekend

Hi Rob,

Look forward to catching up!

regards, Richard

Hi Rob,

Nice bit of diagnostic work there.

Are you coming down to the steam rally at Woodchurch this weekend?

regards, Richard

Robert,

I see your 19 Set was inspected by Britcom Base Workshop, this was a REME unit based at Kure, Japan at that time. Well traveled.

regards, Richard

Robert

i have known and worked on these for years, the first engine was a USA built Continental, then the engine designed for the Standard Vanguard was adapted for it.

never heard your story before

regards Richard 

Gordon,

From the FV number I deduce it is a Lamp Guard for a Challenger tank and NSN is 6220-99-881-6898

Just now, Samro said:

hoping you would spot it Richard 🙂 , im not finished on the back yet. but should look as above plus I add feet marks on the boom not shore yet..

Thankyou for your help with it!

 

Well done, it is now looking as I remember them 👍

57 minutes ago, Samro said:

38ENGR I have only one photo in service.

48BM80 on left.

 

Rob,

36 Engineer Regt at Maidstone also carried the X11 sign on their vehicles in the 1970's, I had an original sticker and scanned it for Sam.

regards, Richard

2 hours ago, MartinN said:

Now what to do with it?

Brew some tea?

Good one Rob. You can always tell an AEC by the brake squeal ! That one goes well. Look forward to seeing  it in DBG and tac signs. All the hard work was worth it.

42 minutes ago, MartinN said:

If you are sure?I will alter the description.

I seem to recollect spotting that when you showed it to me a while back.

Hi Martin,

Looking at the throttle spindle, I would say that is a carb from a Daimler Armoured Car ( it has a clamp to link to the other carb).

2 minutes ago, Great War truck said:

We took the Thorny out for a quick test run on Saturday and as nothing dropped off or otherwise went wrong we took it to the Wessex MV club gathering at Haslebury Mill today. A 40 mile round trip. The lorry performed almost faultlessly and made no issue of some of the steep hills on the way there and back. This was marvellous as we were a little cautious as to whether sleeving the engine might have reduced its power. Here we are on the way back through Axminster:

 

Hi Tim,

Well done to you all, that will give you more confidence in the old girl. It looked great going through the town..

regards, Richard

2 hours ago, DafT 244 said:

It may be quicker to tap them out to Metric?
 

Hi Gaz,

It would not be at all advisable to tap the threads out to Metric, use the correct UNC bolts, these are lifting points and you will weaken the threads. Safety is the name of the game here!

47 minutes ago, ruxy said:

The Ashford tank did internally mutate a sub-station !

Yes I am fully aware of that as I have been inside it, but it has not actually ‘fallen apart’.

There is a Mark IV tank standing in our town, it has been in the same place for 100 years, never seen any bits falling off in all the years I have known it. Must have been made better than a Challenger 🙄

These wheels were known as Easyclean (spelling may not be correct) and used by a number of car makers in late 1930's. I think that Hillman used a 3-stud wheel hub. The wheel shown has the lugs for a hub cap.

8 hours ago, Scoobie4942 said:

We tried your suggestions on running the engine and low and behold it works !😊😊😊.

so many thanks gentlemen for your suggestions 👍👍👍

Scoobie

Hi Scoobie

well done, glad that trick worked for you !

regards Richard 

Hi Nick,

Some of the stories these guys come out with do not make any sense, they may not have had much interest in them at the time either, just a tool of the trade.

I reckon the guy was thinking of a Humber Pig !!

No, the military did not have to put the towing vehicle’s number on the back of trailers.

There is a hook on the clutch pedal to keep the plates apart when not in use, they are very prone to sticking. Hook the pedal down and run the engine to get it hot, you may well find then that the plates will free.

47 minutes ago, Degsy said:

You are correct Steve, it is a threshing machine driven by an old Fordson Major. Pity they weren't actually demonstrating threshing, always guaranteed to draw a crowd.

Wrong time of year, I guess 😉

On 2/17/2019 at 7:37 PM, BenHawkins said:

I like the idea of restoring this one as a commandeered lorry made into a mobile workshop. So when I saw this Austin lighting set I had to add it to the collection (I do like T head engines with separate cylinders).

It needs quite a lot of work as the water jackets are split, it has the wrong carb and has been converted to coil ignition. The dynamo is just as bad; seized, missing the rotor windings, commutator and brushes. Quite a lot of research to be done on this one too.

 

So it is a compound wound, 1200RPM 110Vdc 27A 3kW generator connected to what appears to be two cylinders from a 10HP 4 cylinder Austin built in 1914. Now I need to try to work out how the armature should be wound, I guess I should start by looking at the one in Duxford. Does anyone have any photos or information?

 

Hi Ben,

Have you seen this webpage?  http://www.austinmemories.com/styled-96/index.html

regards, Richard

2 minutes ago, Tomo.T said:

Ah, some confusion on my part I'm sure. Reference to the 1919 parts book shows this. There doesn't seem to be an oil scraper ring ! Also of note is the stepped piston ring where mine is the earlier type.

Hi Tomo,

The bottom ring is an oil scraper, it has the 'step cut' ends to keep the oil from passing the ring gap and the reduced diameter and oil holes under the ring allow the oil to pass down inside the skirt.