Richard Farrant

This is what I use my buckets for:

hi Clive,

I note there is no partition between them, do you and Mrs Elliott, sit holding hands ? :lol:

Incidentally, they are not canvas buckets you use, are they?

Richard :wink:

Can anyone help out with what oil is needed for a 432APC Version II please.

Hi,

According to the servicing schedule, the steering unit used OMD75. This is now an obsolete army grade, but was actually 10w/30 engine oil.

Hope this helps.

Richard

Thanks, and does it come in diesel?

There were some ex-Netherlands Forces L/R Lightweights which were diesel, but left hand drive of course. I think it was L. Jackson at Misson, nr. Doncaster who had them, but doubt if there are any left now.

Richard

Ah good, I'm not the only one with this problem.

Paul, I too have thought about someway of warming the air going in the air intake.

Oddball, it would be sensible to have a winter/summer setting but it doesn't seem to have one.

Has anyone else come up with a way round it?

 

Richard,

Carb icing may be a problem, I know some Stalwart owners are suffering it, it is due to the nature of the modern petrol, which is now formulated for injection engines and not carbs, as they are becoming a thing of the past.

On the Ferret, it may not be difficult to overcome, firstly, the inlet manifold is heated, so allowing the engine to warm up longer before moving off will help. The other thing that is worth trying, is something that was used on the forerunner of the Ferret, the WW2 Daimler Dingo. Part of the equipment on a Dingo, was radiator blanking boards, they hooked over the rear engine louvres, ( where the hot air blows out ). I think just one louvre was kept free. This allowed to hot air to build up in the engine compartment rather than just expel it. You will know when it is warm enough by the temp guage, worth experimenting with a sheet of tin. They should be removed once normal running temp is achieved.

Richard

There is also a plate in the cab with an FV number on it.

 

One question, if you look at the side photo, on the canvas there is a black circle, made of thick webbing. Directly below this on the body work there is 2 holes and an outline where something like a plate was mounted, what was likly to be there?

 

Richard,

I thought it was straight out of the army, did not realise it had already had civvy use. Yes, I noted the army reg no, that it was a civvy spec. There were some civvy spec. 110 with V8 engines, again a stop gap due to problems with the diesels in their early life.

The holes in your body sides are for an aerial mounting bracket, it was flat plate , bent at 90 degrees with two more holes in the top edge of the body. On the top face of the bracket was a pole of about 18" with like a stirrup welded to the top and a round mounting plate. The aerial base fitted on the plate and cable went through a hole in the reinforced patch in the canopy.

Richard

good on you Kewelde for noticing that.

Tyler,

I spent 22 years working as a fitter in army workshops, seen so many different versions of Land Rovers. Sometimes that civvy cross member is found on a military contract vehicle, that may have happened because either the cross member has been renewed or the whole chassis has been changed. It was the rear tank that sets it apart. These civvy types were I believe a stop gap contract, with only small changes like FV lights, etc.

Richard

Right here it is.

Richard,

Have you noticed...........its a civvy model, rear mounted fuel tank, tapered ended rear cross member and civilian rear bumperettes, etc.

Also the jaw tow hook has been replaced by a drop plate for a ball hitch. Not often you find trailers in the army with ball hitches, usually on something like a recruiting trailer or caravan.

Richard

 

do you have anumber of the parts place?

 

and if i remember correct i can change the cylinder without taking the wheel and drum off

Paul,

The dealer is Banisters at Northiam, up the road from Rye. Number is 01797 253211 or wjrbanister@btconnect.com

Yes, you can remove the cylinder without disturbing wheel or drum.

Sounds like Clive has fixed you up anyhow.

Richard

Paul,

With brakes you cannot afford to take chances. I would change the cylinder if it is split. It makes me wonder why it has split, are you sure the nipples were of the same thread, they should be UNF. If the new ones were Metric and slightly larger diameter, that may have caused the split. Working with cast aluminium, you have to be carefull of the threads as they corrode, causing the nipple to appear tight when it is not actually on its seat.

As I think you are in the Brighton area, I guess you know the one-stop MV parts place at Northiam? Richard will have cylinders.

Best of luck,

Richard

Can anyone help me with getting 2 900x13 Olympic Sand tyres? I need the tyres to get my car back on the road again after fitting original tyres which wore out in a month. I have tried the vintage tyre dealers, but they are all out of stock, and waiting for some more to be produced.

Robert,

There has been some talk about the availabiltiy of these Olympic tyres on MLU Forum earlier this year, seems they may not be going to produce them anymore. This came from someone in Australia, where they are of course, made. I did find a website for Olympic UK depot and they listed the same tyre on there as a grassland tyre for mowing equipment, etc. but that is evidently out of stock. May be worth you contacting Olympic direct to get the full story. There were some other tyres of that size coming in to Australia from India with a heavy deep tread, not really car type use.

Richard

I like the tricolour.

Clive

My ex-employers colours, as if you did not know !

Re. HA prefix for the paint, I am certain this is the same as British during 40's, seem to remember seeing it before somewhere. H1, etc, came later.

Richard

Do you think Standard Camouflage Colour No.2 is the same as No.2 Camouflage Brown?

Clive,

In answer to your quote above....Yes.

The paint was listed in Vocab as Cat. No.HA5715 Brown SCC No2

Take a look at these two links, the second one refers to Canadian vehicles but all the Cat. No. and Regulations are of British origin.

http://www.matadormodels.co.uk/tank_museum/xcamo_ww2uk.htm

http://milifax2003.tripod.com/Cdn_Patterns_1.html

It seem that No2 is not exactly the same as Dk Earth according to the first link, but after a lot of searching, the client and I had to make a decision and it did not look too bad at all.

Richard

Do you think Standard Camouflage Colour No.2 is the same as No.2 Camouflage Brown?

Clive,

I will have a search for the site I found before with colour chart.

Richard

Is anyone familiar with No.2 Camouflage Brown?

 

I know that it was around in 1947 & used by the British Army. It is not a BSC, I had guessed it might be a forerunner of Service Brown which I think is what is used on ammo boxes.

 

But that is quite a dark brown. When I did a google on it I got hits mainly about painting planes. I noted RCAF at one stage used Camouflage Special Brown No.2 but is that the same? It must have been fairly light as it had to have patches of dark brown on it.

 

 

Clive,

This one has come up before on the MLU Forum. I think the nearest to it is probably Dark Earth, the BS number of which escapes me, but I do have it on a tin in the workshop.

To quote from the book "British Tank Markings & Names" by B T White, " during 1941 a khaki-brown shade similar to BD uniform, was again used for tanks". "in Nov 1941 the War Office authorised its use as an alternative to Khaki Green No3. The khaki brown mentioned was known as Standard Camouflage Colour No2 and was included in BS987C published in Sept 1942". It goes on and on...... Somewhere on the web, I have found a site connected with modelmakers, that shows the BS colour charts and from this I concluded that Dark Earth, which is not that dark, more like the colour of a cup of tea, to be as near as I could get.

Richard

with a MV that has several layers of paint there will probably be markings which have been preserved by later layers,if you just sandblast or grind you loose that history.

Matt,

Good point ! I forgot about that, obviuosly markings are in usual places like bonnet, doors, front or rear, etc. so extra care can be taken at those known areas.

Richard

Hi All

Any of you clever bods out there ever used Nitromoors to strip paint off their MV, if so is it any good, and where can I purchase some from, I need to get the paint of my jeep body, chassis and engine.

 

Mark,

It can be bought from DIY stores. I would advise you to experiment with it on a part of your vehicle first, because I find with very old and hard paint it takes for ever, lifting a coat at a time. With the number of coats that a MV usually has, this will be tedious! Also, it has to be washed off thoroughly, to neutralise it, any stripper lurking under body seams, etc. will come back to haunt you when repainting. For heavy metal parts, a needle gun chips the paint of well, rotary wire wheel on a hand grinder, and a hot air stripper is also good for sheet metal. Then off course any components that can be sand blasted with out causing internal damage, ie don,t consider doing it to an engine or transmission, etc.

Richard

Richard

 

Your Dingo whats it's mil reg? I am always looking to see if I can come across any exRUC ones, they had at least 35. I know where 14 of them are, rotting away unfortunately.

(

Clive,

I do not know the post war census number, only the original one. It takes a lot of searching to find it as the records are listed with the postwar numbers in order, will have to spend a day at Bovvy to find it. It is doubtful that mine was an RUC one as it was found to have several sets of RAC signs and the original set which was Royal Engineers.

The ones you speak off were once in Lindsay Burneys yard in NI, I know of several people who have bought some of them, as you say there is a large cache of them now owned by a gentleman in NI, who appears not to want to part with them.

I would put a DAC on a ZR registration, CC sounds more like a Saladin.

Richard

HI

one of our members owns a gunshop selling de-ac weapons, he stood up and told us that the government has back tracked on our hobby saying that we should be okay to carry on as we are and the bill will not affect us. He is still urging us to write our letters to government as before to keep up the pressure, but it is looking better for our hobby.

 

I fired off letters to all the VCR commitee members and the Home Office at the request of Preston Issacs, fellow MVT member. We have had encouraging replies from several of those MPs. There have been a great number of amendments put to the Bill by those friendly MPs and some points are much as I suggested. From the minutes to the first of the VCR Commitee meetings it appears they have had a significant response from people like us and are taking note of it.

Richard

I promise not to mention W&G again, here is my fleet;

1943 Bedford QLD GS truck

1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle

1943 Daimler Dingo Mk2 scout car

Richard

It makes no reference for anything different for staff cars, plant etc, but does say for Services requiring a grey semi-gloss finish then use Dark Battleship Grey BSC No.32. So in what circumstances that would be used I don't know.

 

I see this FV Spec 2012 supercedes one issued on 6th Feb 1945, so it is possible that DBG was introduced from that date, I don't know.

Clive,

I had a feeling that DBG was re-introduced soon after the war ended in 1945, have come across it written somewhere.

The grey you refered to would have been used in one instance, on DUKW's. I remember seeing one in service, late 50's / early 60's in grey.

When I started working for the army in '74, most vehicles were in gloss DBG, from armour through to plant and very smart it looked too.

Richard

The question is how can I bring that down to satin? I recollect being told you can add chalk. But would that need an awful lot & would it detract from the strength of the paint?

 

Any ideas?

Hi Clive,

The paint trade use Matting Agent, never used it myself, but do remember years ago when making models, before getting into 1:1 scale, that Humbrol did small tubes of it for their model paint.

My guess is you would have to experiment to get the required finish, too much and it would be like blackboard paint. Your remark about using chalk is quite true, but I guess matting agent is more "scientific". Are we going to be let in on the secret project or will all be revealed at the start of next season??

Look at this website;

http://www.hmgmarine.com/mattingspecs.html

or do a search for "matting agent", you will find a lot of info on it.

Richard

It was spoilt at times by a gurgling/babbling child, I mean grown ups are trying to enjoy the film & man behind had a gaseous problem, whether he was a cleric I didn't ascertain.

Clive,

Very enjoyable..........I'll wait and see it on DVD.

Richard

Richard

Well I have got a Stinking Dog at my feet, its's been rolling in sumat peculiar. That's enough excitement without having to envolve the clergy.

 

 

Clive,

On that note, I shall say Goodnight

Richard

PS Its cheese actually, did you see the W & G film?

But perhaps I will feel less paranoid when I have come back from seeing Wallace & Grommet tonight.

Clive,

You will be no doubt, looking for some Stinking Bishop tomorrow. :lol: The film seems to have made it very popular.

Richard

Ferret Heaven still works, they key is typing in the correct address, http://www.ferretscoutcar.info - you had something else.

Chris,

I think Richard means the other forum. I also cannot find it anymore, used to be a member of it. We were always being told to answer the technical queries on it as it would be permanent........but now its gone! There is no link that works, to a forum on the above website.

Richard Farrant