Richard Farrant

I agree with checking the ballast resistor, this was a common problem on J60 in the Fox as well.

Canvas cover is for the FV2381 Mk.3 3/4 ton Wide Track trailer, built by Reynolds Boughton, Viking Trailers, or Universal Engineering.

2 hours ago, Dave Armstrong said:

I will drop them an email . Any reference sources available to track down the true origin of the symbols stamped into the I D badge ? 

Dave,

What appears to be a crown on the inspector's stamp, looks very much like a Danish crown symbol. It would be interesting if there are any factory records around that show where it was originally supplied to.

6 hours ago, Ron said:

Richard is right. Gear oil is far to heavy for the primary cases. Both the Welbike and Flea maintenance manuals call for ordinary engine oil HD 50.  But you should be able to use heavy gear oil (not EP) in the Flea gear box (The manual quotes oil C600)  Maybe Richard can remind us of the modern equivalent!  Ron

Hi Ron,

Going on what you say above, a Straight 50 engine oil is approx. the same viscosity as a Straight SAE90 gear oil.

Be aware that SAE viscosity numbers do not align between engine and gear oils.

C600 is a Straight 140 gear oil, I know this for sure as we used it in army workshops in certain applications, one being worm drive axles.

2 hours ago, Red Rimshot said:

Hello,

Another Flea question, sorry. 

I have some Castrol D140 oil. This is used in the welbike clutch. It's very thick, almost like syrup. I was planning to mix this with grease to use in the Flea's gearbox. Whilst using 10/40w or the D140 in the clutch.

Have I got it right ? What is the best stuff to use in each please ?

Thanks all.

Castrol D140 is a SAE140 gear oil, not familiar with the Flying Flea, but it seems a rather heavy oil for it.

Thank goodness the wading screen was removed very early in their service life. At the workshops we received an elaborate jig for pulling the engine out through the back so the screen was not disturbed, this was only done once as I recall. Shouts of joy when we found out that it was no longer needed, engine removal was a doddle after that. The Fox certainly kept our workshops busy.

1 hour ago, fadedsun said:

not enough machine guns, not light enough. Won’t go where the jackal will go and not as quickly air portable. fast, either. Remember the tendency of the foxes to flip. Jackals are a lot more stable. 

Have you had any one to one experience of Fox? I worked on these from the time they entered service to when they were demobbed, around 18-20 year I think. We did repair work for a number of units that operated Fox over that long period and there were very few that came in with roll over damage.  As for speed, what armoured recce vehicle do you know that will do 90mph? I was in the turret of one on road test and can vouch for this as I could see the speedo and passed every vehicle on the road.

Any vehicle can flip if not driven with care.

It looks like an Inspector's stamp and having a crown on it, could well have been supplied Lend Lease to Britain.

Triangle reflectors on rear of trailers and round ones on the rear of vehicles, that is the law.

15 minutes ago, Pete Ashby said:

Exactly the same Richard I had my BoC account for nearly 30 years for Argoshield, Oxygen and Acetylene but like you I just could not justify the the rental price each year,  it was almost as if you were being penalized for having an account so like you I now us Hobbyweld .

Pete

Odd thing was though Pete, when I closed my account I was offered a small user account, it would have made a saving but not as much as going to Hobbyweld. Why could they not have offered me that years ago? My usage would show on my account. I also had oxygen, acetylene and nitrogen with them over different period, but still only in small quantities.

Try this web link for a local Hobbyweld stockist;

https://hobbyweld.co.uk/find-an-agent/?lookup=Esher

28 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

Thanks for all the advice, it looks like slowly is the key ingredient, I will definitely try clamping some copper to the back as I have never heard of doing that before, I will also try adjusting the gas as the pressure might be a bit to low, I’ve googled which gas is best but still not sure!! I currently have argoshield universal ( which is almost run out )  but everything I have read states that this is for thicker steels, any advice on gas and where to get some, I used to get refills from a garage friend owner who had a BOC account but he’s closed down.

I had an account with BOC for nearly 40 years, but as cylinder rental went up, I now use Hobbyweld, where you pay a fee for the cylinder initially then only pay when exchanging cylinder. This way there are no rental fees and your initial deposit is returned if you ever stop using the welder. You will find suppliers to be local hardware shops and you can go to any of their stockist to exchange cylinders. Much more economical.

Another tip when welding the sheet metal on the cab is to joddle the new piece of metal going in, this is putting a step of the sheets thickness at the join so the edges overlap without standing proud. You will find it easier and a better join. I had to do a bit of extensive work on the WOT6 cab in the back corner where the mudguard bolts under. Will try and find a photo.

Just now, Normandy Jim said:

Thanks Richard, It's the first time thats happened to me, shall check it over Monday..

Jim,

Just seen your previous post about skimming manifold and fitting new rings. If you skimmed both manifolds together then the rings may be a bit too wide now and not allowing the manifold to compress the gasket. I normally measure the rebate in the head and manifold, the width of ring and thickness of gasket to ensure the assembly will fit correctly with no pressure on the rings.

7 minutes ago, Normandy Jim said:

All ignition system is new, problem lies with 1+2 as when HT leads are disconnected the engine tone stays the same, disconnect the other 3<6cyl  engine tone drops..Im running engine without rocker cover and side covers, getting oil to all..Will be back on it again on Monday...Will let you know the outcome..

Take out no's 1 and 2 plugs and swap them with 5 and 6, see if the problem moves. Strange that before the repairs, cylinders 1 and 2 were giving trouble. As has already been mentioned, it could be drawinng air on the intake manifold joint which opens up when the engine gets hot. These exhaust manifolds are prone to warping and if machined then the intake manifold has to be carefully matched to it so all the faces are in line.

30 minutes ago, Manylandrovers said:

Don’t suppose you happen to know what application RE 16272 was fitted to?

The nearest I can find is RE16472 which was a 40NNIP fitted to early B81 engines I believe

16 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

thanks for the info, I will have a look on there website

 

All the gearbox bearings will be available at you local bearing supplier, nothing special.

17 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

The restoration continues!!

 

 

 the gearbox  however is a different matter!! It had filled with water after sitting for many years  which is apparently a common problem, where the gear lever is exposed, water can enter via the reverse gate rod, the gearbox was completely seized and stuck in gear, after several goes with a plumbers torch and plenty of patience all gears freed off, bearings will all need replacing and the gears will need further inspection once removed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When I got started on the WOT6 machy wagon, I went to drain the gearbox and it was full to the brim with water, as the boot on the gear lever had disintegrated. We found a CV boot for a car fitted nice and snugly. The gears all cleaned up well but a 100% bearing renewal.

6 hours ago, DUNSFOLD said:

I have started a tidy up on a Ex New Zealand Army Land Rover Stage 1 V8 from the 1980s. I believe these were CKD build from Australia but I cant find any reference for the original green. Its like a matt Deep bronze green but not quite, Its not Forrest green as far as I can tell. The vehicle has been painted in NATO camo and looks wrong. Are any of our NZ friends able to  find a code before I go down the matching road. Thanks.

 

 

 

Hi Phil,

If you go to www.remlr.com and look at the menu on left, click on NZ Vehicles, there is some info there. Looks like their new Rovers came in a CKD from UK. There is mention on the 2A that they were Deep Bronze Green.

regards Richard

Thanks Wally,

Re. Oxford, I thought I should ask, I did find some reports at Bovington, but always interested in learning more. I can see your predicament, a friend whose father recently passed away is now having to sort out his collection, no mean task as I can vouch.

Not seen that Unipower 4 tonner before, it would have been an awkward one to climb in and out of I reckon.

regards, Richard

Hi Wally,

Have you found anything on the Oxford Carrier?

44 minutes ago, DDoyle said:

Thanks for this Richard!

Do you know what Theater/country would have required the single headlight be mounted on the right fender (as viewed from inside the truck)?

Sounds like I can rule out key cards, and am now looking only for people who may have contract cards.

Thanks for the help!

Sincerely,

David

 

David,

British vehicles had the left hand headlamp working for the UK and when overseas, where driving on the other side of the road, the working lamp was switched to the right hand side. The vehicle wiring diagrams make this point.

The headlight positions would be due to ones that operated in the UK and those that were overseas. I do not know how many US6 trucks continued in service with the British Army post 1950, as this is when the Key Cards were introduced, to convert vehicle records from Census numbers to Army registration numbers.

3 minutes ago, Gordon_M said:

I'm sure that is the English crown, normally seen as British.  The other common one is the Scottish crown which is a lot flatter, and found on things like Telephone Boxes ( remember them? ) in Scotland

As Clive said, the queens crown has a dip in the middle, the kings does not. You only have to look at cap badges pre and post Coronation (1952).

See attached...

7 minutes ago, Duson said:

Better visible here without the plate on my friends WOT8

I think that is for the drivers handbook.

2 minutes ago, peterjdavey@outlook.com said:

Thank you Richard, appreciate the confirmation & will plan ahead accordingly.

I was planning to flush & replace all the plugs as a mater of course & I run an additive in my MK 2 Jaguar as well.

The manual states to remove the gear box prior to extracting the engine, I assume this is correct?

Due to the harsh conditions out here my Lucas 12 Volt Light/Ignition /Switch is toast. 

What are Bedford owners replacing this switch with? Any recommendations & sources?

Thanks again for accepting my non Military related Commercial Vehicle queries I hope you enjoyed your visit to OZ.

Regards

Peterl

Hi Peter,

You will need to remove the gearbox in order to extricate the engine from under the bulkhead. There are only 4 bolts holding it to the flywheel housing.

I am not sure which switch is fitted to the civiian models, so could you send a photo of it?

Had a good time in your country, I am involved in running a military vehicle event over there and we were able to run it before the virus situation escalated.

regards, Richard